[mtdjed]

One previous poster recommended running fan at all times. My control board was damaged by a surge and caused my units fan to run continuously during the summer. After some time , I started noticing mildew forming on some old leather shoes in the bedroom closet. Also noticed that outlet ducks in the master bedroom tended to get moist and some growth was forming. Checked the humidity in that room and was in the high 60s. Later had AC company check the unit and they replaced the damaged control board. Was told that in the humid months in the south , that you do not want to run the fan at all times. While the AC is running , you are reducing humidity in the air by having it condense vapor on the coil. When the AC shuts off, you want the fan to also shut off. If not you are blowing the air over the wet condenser and sending it back into the house. Since then , I have made sure the fan is not running after AC shutdown and the humidity is much lower.

To be safe from mold, was convinced to buy UV light (Guardian Air Reme) and charged about $1000. Was reminded of tis when my AC company recently called and said it was time for the Reme Cell to be replaced. $400. Was never told about that. Decided to investigate. Found out Reme cost was about $429 and cell(Light Bulb) is about $200 and is supposed to be easily changed. So, be prepared to have somebodies hand in your back pocket.

[villagetinker]

Do some research on the "UV" lights, as I recall these are not as effective as stated by the suppliers, I would not waste my money.

[rjm1cc]

I was also told not to run the fan all the time as it does not let the duck work dry out and will lead to mold in the ducks. I have a setting that lets the fan come on randomly when the A/C or heater is not running.

[paulat585]

Originally Posted by biker1

Your system should have a float connected to a shutoff switch. If the condensate isn't draining the system will stop running. If you ever call your HVAC vendor because of a non running system, the first thing they will check is whether the shutoff switch is tripped because of non draining condensate.

Hi All, I bought a "low voltage Safe-T-Switch" online after reading your posts. My question is what kind of pro do I need to install it. Do I need to hire an HVAC person or could a general handyman do it? Thank you. PS: neither person living here is competent to do the install.

[biker1]

Your system doesn't have a float with a cutoff switch? I thought that was code.

Originally Posted by paulat585

Hi All, I bought a "low voltage Safe-T-Switch" online after reading your posts. My question is what kind of pro do I need to install it. Do I need to hire an HVAC person or could a general handyman do it? Thank you. PS: neither person living here is competent to do the install.

[villagetinker]

I would vote on having the HVAC people install, having stated that, they may balk at installing something you bought. This should be low voltage wiring, so you may be able to get by with a handyman, but you need to make sure they know what they are doing, so that they do not damage your AC control system.

[PaulDenise]

I just looked at mine. It is a 2 year old system in a 2 year old house.

My furnace has a specific place to screw it in. It is inline with the condensation drain, but the nipple is actually on the furnace.

The wires from it go up and onto the circuitry on the top of the inside of the furnace.

So, if you have an older furnace that does not already have one of these, you will have to do both plumbing with the drain line and electrical work with the wiring diagram of the circuit board.

In short, call Munn's or another HVAC place and have them do it right (probably using their own parts).

Are you absolutely certain that you do not have one already, hidden someplace on the furnace or on the drain pipe?? It would be two wires attached to something down by the drain pipe.

[biker1]

I am not sure about FL but switches to cut off the system when the condensate line is clogged (via a float and switch) have been code in GA for at least 15 years.

Originally Posted by PaulDenise

I just looked at mine. It is a 2 year old system in a 2 year old house.

My furnace has a specific place to screw it in. It is inline with the condensation drain, but the nipple is actually on the furnace.

The wires from it go up and onto the circuitry on the top of the inside of the furnace.

So, if you have an older furnace that does not already have one of these, you will have to do both plumbing with the drain line and electrical work with the wiring diagram of the circuit board.

In short, call Munn's or another HVAC place and have them do it right (probably using their own parts).

Are you absolutely certain that you do not have one already, hidden someplace on the furnace or on the drain pipe?? It would be two wires attached to something down by the drain pipe.

[DangeloInspections]

I always tell my clients to pour about 1/2 a gallon of hot, (not boiling) water into the inlet of your A/C condensate line, at least 4 times a year. A 1/2 a cup of Vinegar is also fine. Never pour bleach down there, as it can in some cases harm the A-Coil. I even blow mine out or suck it out with a shop vac every so often. Typically the service guy will do this if he is good.

If the condensate line backs up the float switch SHOULD turn off your unit before damage is done.....however, I usually find a broken float switch about every two weeks during warranty inspections.

I also recommend that you have your A/C serviced (i.e.cleaned and maintained) at least once per year, if not twice a year. Your A/C system is one of the most expensive components of your home. Keeping it in tip-top shape will help it to last longer and run more efficiently, saving you money in the long run.

Also make sure the filter door on your Carrier unit fully closes. I often find them half open, allowing more humid garage air to enter your conditioned space. This will also help cause a wet filter, etc, that can promote mold growth on the filter.

I do about 400 warranty inspections in The Villages a year, and many times I find horrid looking moldy A/C filters from folks who have not learned to have normal maintenance done on their systems.

On a typical inspection we check the A-Coil, filter, housing, float switch, bottom of the return, etc, etc, etc. It is always good to know that your serviceperson during normal maintenance has blown out your condensate line, etc.

Personally, I am not a big fan of service contracts...but even I have one on my A/C unit. These newer units do not seem to have the longevity they enjoyed in the past. I personally budget for a new system every ten years or so...if by having good maintenance I get more years out of my system, that's great.

Basically, you take care of your stuff and it will take care of you.

Hope that helps, Frank D.

[RickeyD]

Originally Posted by villagetinker

I would vote on having the HVAC people install, having stated that, they may balk at installing something you bought. This should be low voltage wiring, so you may be able to get by with a handyman, but you need to make sure they know what they are doing, so that they do not damage your AC control system.

If the OP knew enough to know what the handyman was doing, they should know enough not to hire a handyman. HVAC control wiring should be tackled by a pro only.

[paulat585]

Thank you all for your quick answers. There is no shut off valve on my unit, which I found out when the condensate line overflowed and ruined my newly-installed floors and a cabinet. I just bought this house, but the initial inspection says that the unit was installed in 2007. I will hire an HVAC company to do this per your advice.