Quote:
Originally Posted by JMike
If your existing A/C can handle the additional load, you can run a duct off your main supply trunk. This can be done without making any other modifications.
If you want or need a separate unit like the Mitsubishi Mini-Split then yes there are a lot of things to consider. Did you have Low E 366 glass put in, if so and your house is block and you have a 4" clearance between the ground and the concrete or 6" if it's frame you don't have to raise the floor. But.... the room will have to be brought up to a Class 4, which means added electrical outlets and blown-in insulation. .
|
I wish people would
stop with this raised floor requirement.
The only ones that say it's required are contractors that don't know the code or just want to rip you off.
What is stated above is correct.
I think extending the Hvac should be tried first it should work on most homes for a few hundred dollars.
Insulation should be done no matter what, it cost about 2-300$$$
A mini split should cost $3,000 not $4,000 keep shopping......
Those cost a contractor $1,000-$1200. So I think $3,000 gives them enough profit.
By the way a mini can be done as a DIY it comes precharged takes about 4 hours to install. They can be bought online for $1100 a 9000 btu unit.
I went with 270 glass which is more solar friendly to heat the room in winter (I have a south facing room).
But the 366 is great also.
The problem many folks will have in upgrading to code will be if they have aluminum framed windows in two respects.
The low e glass and either
wood, vinyl or fiberglass window frames are now required.
Therefore, if you have aluminum it will not pass the code.
Now many folks do take the sliders out on the QT.
.