Quote:
Originally Posted by JP
I use Millorganite and have the best lawn in the neighborhood. I reapply when the lawn looks less green. Works great because not so much nitrogen like Scott's and it is like a composting type material---something our soils around here need. Also has added Iron which lawns need. I apply it 2-3 times the recommended amount.
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Fortunately for all of us your lawn can't read. I do like the idea of going to the cooperative extension. They have been very helpful.
First thing I would do is determine the type of grass you have.
Secondly,I would have a soil test done. Re: Milorganite and Ironite. We actually have plenty of iron in our soil but it is locked up and unavailable to the plants due to the alkaline PH of the soil. Expect 7.5-8. Ideal for a lawn is about 6.5. On top of that most fertilizers use UREA as a cheap source of nitrogen. It makes the soil even more alkaline. Best thing you can do is add organic matter. Putting it on top-ie milorganite does little or nothing. You need to get it into the soil. I've been drilling holes 8 inches down into my lawn and filling them with manure. I have 5,000 sq feet of lawn AND IT IS A LOT OF WORK. Results I use far less water than my neighbors as it holds far more water than than the original limestone clay.
BEWARE OF USING MALORGANITE AND OR IRONITE-malorganite is milwaukee sewage sludge it has heavy metals in it-mercury, lead etc. The bag says do not use on crops you will eat. Ironite is waste from iron mines-it also says do not use on crops you will eat and it too has nasties like Mercury.