Quote:
Originally Posted by DangeloInspections
You got it VT....!
Based on everything posted, I believe the factors involved is the movement of the components of course causing the cracking. Any way to minimize that movement would help.
Extreme temperature swings in the attic, the strength of the drywall mud in the seams, the points of attachment, etc, all come into play.
When I built my home up North, (and yes I know there are HUGE differences here and there), I also GLUED and screwed drywall sheet to every stud and rafter in the home. After ten years I still had not one crack or screw pop.
I am not saying that The Villages should do this on the whole house.....but perhaps that too would help at least in the Lanai ceilings. The additional cost and labor would be minimal.
Part of the problem here is that the current method completely passes code 100%. This is not a code problem....more of a "best practice in light of a unique but common problem" situation.
Sometimes when you have a recurring problem you need to explore methodology that exceeds minimum code standards to solve the problem.
Often it costs far less to prevent a problem than it does to fix a problem afterwards.
Frank
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well said, but gluing a lid is something that needs to be done and gluing a seam is something a drywall contractor will not do in fear of glue coming through the seam and causing problems for taping.
Not a win win situation but a good glued joint would solve a lot of issues.
I glued the drywall joints to the truss in the attic and it solved a lot of movement problems, but to get up there is a chore. I used Locktite 3x in a chalk tube! (lots of it.) L.O.L
In the north if you didn't glue baseboard and window molding corners you would have separation and problems.
Here it seams chalk is there friend here in the villages.L.O.L