Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredguy123
I am assuming that you didn't open the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve at the top of the water heater? That is a safety device, which is probably also clogged and non-functional. If you plan to keep a 13 year old water heater for an extended life span, you should test and replace the relief valve if it doesn't work. Lift the metal lever to test it. If it malfunctions, the water heater could experience excessive temperature or pressure and could explode. Just a suggestion, because most people are replacing the water heater after 13 years. Also, 13 years ago, expansion tanks were not required, but they are now. An expansion tank would help to maintain a constant water pressure in your house, which will protect your plumbing fixtures from experiencing excessive water pressure and possible damage.
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Very definitely opened pressure relief valve, which is what allowed the tank to start evacuating water. That was recommended because of a closed system as you suggest. My pressure relief valve was replaced several years ago after it successfully responded to a failed expansion tank. My pressure relief valve is not on top but on side about one foot from top. And I doubt if simply opening it, would verify that it would verify that it can functionally protect from excessive temp or pressure.
Also, valve clogging would seem to be more likely lower in the tank where the sediments accumulate as they were in my tank.
I should note that I really was only trying to express my experience in draining the tank, and not trying to express that I know anything else. That was the whole purpose of my initial opening of this chat.