Quote:
Originally Posted by stadry
this is our work & has been for 35yrs,,, the best response i saw was call tim miller - sorry, guys.............................
lrvalley, check your label,,, i believe you meant many are not 100% solids. they're all epoxies - some are wtr-based & some are solvent-based,,, its the SOLIDS content that will generally determine performance
i can't define a ' clear poly coat on top ',,, i know how to recognize, install, & define polyaspartics, polyurethanes, & urethanes - for top coats too but am ignorant regarding 'using poly all the way. '
curious if you recall which ' trade journals ',,, my suspicions are epoxy-coat.com was well positioned re internet postings w/whatever algorithms & budget were employed
tink, send me a note & i'll try to help - shouldn't be much of an issue if you're willing to repair it correctly
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Good catch - you are correct, I meant to say solids! My poly coat is a 2 part polyurethane coating. Polyurethane is stronger and more impervious than epoxy. In the past, they didn't have the 2 part poly for home use - you could only get a pro with the right equipment to install it. Now they have 2 part poly, similar to epoxy.
Generally, a polyurethane floor coating is highly flexible and elastic, while epoxy flooring is harder and more brittle. This makes polyurethane coatings more resistant to scratches and similar damage. It's also more resistant to chemicals than epoxy.
Doing a base coat and and a clear coat in all poly is extremely expensive when compared to epoxy. However, doing the base coat in epoxy, then a good clear coat in poly offers many of the advantages of using poly without a huge increase in price.