I've had an inground pool for the last 35 years no matter where I've lived. We just installed a new pool here in The Villages, and love it. I'm an engineer/IT guy, so I research the heck out of anything I buy. Below is a list of Do's and Don'ts for any new pool, no matter who the builder is:
Do's
Make your shallow end 4' deep. Most builders go with 3' or 3 1/2'. This is too shallow. My pool goes from 4' to 5'. I've heard folks say the 3 1/2' is for the kids... but this depth is only good for a few years, then you're stuck with that depth for the rest of your life.
Go with salt water. My first pool was chlorine - my next two were salt water. Easier and far cheaper to maintain as salt water requires far less chemicals. (FYI - salt water is still chlorine, but the chlorine is generated using a cell and salt water.)
Ensure salt cell is rated for a minimum of 2x pool size. You don't want the cell running at 100% all the time.
Replace dual drains with a channel drain. If your deep end is only 5-6', folks will hit their feet on the standard drains, and if you get a cleaning robot, it will get hung up on the standard drains. Make sure the channel drain is installed flush with the bottom.
Install handrail at build time. It's much more costly and harder to do after.
Get a robot to clean pool and sidewalls (Buy on your own after install). They work fantastic!
Get a heater so you can swim year round and keep temps enjoyable. A heat pump cost far less to run than gas, and works fine in Florida climate. The only reason to get gas is if you are getting a hot tub and need fast heat.
If you do get a heat pump, get largest available (140K). Larger heaters are more efficient, cost less to run, and run for less time to heat pool.
Get autofill/drain. In Florida, you will be adding water with hose weekly in the summer due to evaporation, and draining manually during heavy rain in the spring and fall if you don't. This is a MUST for all pools here.
Get full automation. You'll be able to save a tremendous amount of money on energy if you use it right, and the saving will pay for the automation within a year or two.
Make sure your pump is Variable Speed. One speed and two speed pumps cost far more to run.
Go with a larger filter (300-400 sq ft). Most builders will put the minimum on (100-200 sq ft), and you'll be cleaning filter monthly instead of once or twice a year.
Get a water line run near equipment pad, and have a light installed over the equipment.
Go to a site called Trouble Free Pool (TFP). It's a site run by a number for former pool folks that provide a very easy method of maintaining your pool. You'll have a LOT of money if you do this yourself... more than $1K per year). Even if you don't maintain your own pool, the pool school section on TFP will give you a good background on what the people taking care of your pool should be doing.
Don'ts
Get solar heating. Solar heating alone costs around $5K. It only works well when it's hot out (you don't need it), and it doesn't work well when it's cold out (you do need it). With solar you will need to have another heat source, either gas or electric to supplement the solar. If you do an analysis, you'll never pay for the solar. It's far cheaper to just use gas or electric for full heating.
Install suction return line. All builder will include a suction return line for suction cleaners. Suction cleaners do not work well, and the line is worthless. You end up with a fitting sticking out in the pool that is never used along with a line that can cause potential issues down the road. Eliminate the suction return line, then buy a cleaning robot.
Give full payment until pool is operational (If you can get builder to agree - most won't).
If you have any questions on the above, shoot me a note and I can provide specifics for each item.
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