Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredguy123
I would suggest that all homeowners buy a pressure gauge so they can monitor the water pressure in the house. They cost about 10 dollars on Amazon, and you can screw it onto any outside hose bibb. The pressure should be about 60 psi. If it is over 100 psi, you have a problem.
Just because your expansion tank is defective, doesn't mean that you have water pressure problem, but it is a good idea to check it periodically, and replace it when it fails. One way to test it is to tap the bottom part of the tank with a screw driver, and you should hear a dull thud. Tap the top part and you should hear a hollow sound. If you hear a dull thud on both parts, the tank is full of water and it is defective. Another way to test it is to remove the plastic cover on the top of the tank and attach a regular vehicle pressure gauge to the valve. If water comes out, the tank is full of water and defective. Expansion tanks last about 5-7 years, which is less than the water heater.
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Great Idea! Use pressure gauge to monitor Pressure During and after Irrigation and Shower. The pressure changes can provide some clues as to what is really happening.
If you do not have a bladder tank (pre 2006 construction) there should be a slow pressure buildup in the water line caused by water expanding as it is heated and not being compensated by the bladder tank which is not there. This can continue until the thermal relief valve starts to drip water unless someone has capped the valve outside.
If you have a bladder tank with a failed bladder or insufficient air in the bladder section, the pressure build up will be similar to above but there is no outside relief valve outlet. So pressure build up will
continue until some water is relieved through the shower valve or the water heater Pressure/Thermal Relief valve. The non return design on the water supply prevents backflow which would control pressure increase.