Talk of The Villages Florida - View Single Post - 40 Gallon Electric Water Heater
View Single Post
 
Old 06-14-2025, 06:20 PM
lawgolfer lawgolfer is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 278
Thanks: 2
Thanked 224 Times in 129 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref View Post
You are doing the right thing. The problem is if you can do it yourself great but if you can't I believe a plumber will chage $200-$300 to drain and replace the rod so most don't do it.
I admit that changing the anode is a PITA (pain in the a**). Having done it 6 or 7 times, I've concluded that water heater manufacturers make the job hard so the homeowner won't bother. The tank will then rust through and the manufacturer will have another sale.

First, apply lots of penetrating oil around the head of the rod and let it sit overnight. The A.O. Smith tank in our house requires a 1&1/16 or 27mm socket. This large a socket has a 1/2" square drive. You will need a "breaker bar" of 18" minimum length. Be careful as you will be working on a stepladder. You may need to apply more penetrating oil and let it set another night. Don't despair as, eventually, it will come loose and you will experience a great deal of satisfaction in having done the job.

Interestingly, the job will be easier when you do the next replacement in 5 years because you will have wrapped the threads of the rod you put in place 5 years earlier with several wraps of teflon tape.

Replacing the anode in a Bradford White water heater is a real PITA. The anode is integral with the outlet tube in contrast to the Rheem, A.O. Smith and most other brands. The problem is that the top of the rod is aluminum while the threads are steel. You would need a special offset wrench or socket to the able to get a grip on the top of the steel. Instead, most people will put a pipe wrench of the aluminum tube which will then twist off or crush.

The trick with a Bradford White is to remove the flex pipe or coupler from the top of the aluminum and place an ordinary steel bolt inside the aluminum tube. I don't remember the size, but it will be in the area of 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8". With the bolt inside the aluminum tube you can then apply a pipe wrench to the aluminum tube without crushing the tube.

I had to use penetrating oil as well as apply heat from a propane torch to the steel threads below the aluminum tube. That stunk up our garage for the next two days. When I screwed in the new integral outlet tube/anode, I applied many wraps of teflon tape to the threads. I was happy we sold the house and moved to The Villages before it was time to again replace the anode in the Bradford White.

Last edited by lawgolfer; 06-14-2025 at 06:24 PM. Reason: add the word "heater" after Bradford White water; add "T" in PITA in 4th paragraph