Quote:
Originally Posted by jrref
Thanks for the very accurate information. Yes, when I replaced my anode rod with the electronic type, my neighbors came over and using a breaker bar and all other types of tools we finally got the rod loose and out. This is why a plumber asks so much to do this service. It's not easy.
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ANODE REMOVAL: Yes, penetrating oil on the top of the old rod, 24 hours prior, does help. Impact wrench is one way that works well. Long Breaker Bar plus a 2-3 foot piece of iron pipe over the handle gives you the extra leverage you need. The tank should be near full but not pressurized when you try to get the old one free. The weight helps stabilize the tank. The house water must be OFF. Drain a few ounces to eliminate the tank pressure. The old Anode will break free with moderate force at a 3 foot torque moment. Remove the old rod straight up carefully not to chip off any junky deposits. New simple Anodes are about $25 (some are 3 section flexible if you are too close to s ceiling) and come with the 27mm Socket and Teflon Tape. When applying Tape to the new threads, only cover the top half of the threads to allow the other threads to be grounded in the tank's threaded fitting. Tighten with a breaker bar and check for leaks there the next day.
FLUSHING: Turn the control to Pilot (Gas) or Off (Electric). Turn off the house water. Attach a garden hose to the drain and run it out to your driveway or other place where hot water won't matter. Open the drain fully - you may need a 7/16" socket if there is no knob. Crack open a faucet in your utility room to allow air in. The 40 gallons of hot water will drain in a few minutes. Close the faucet in the utility room. With the drain still open full, turn on the house water slowly. The cold water will fill and flush most of the sediment from inside the tank. Allow to run for a few minutes. Close the drain. Open the house water to full open. Open the utility room faucet very slowly to allow air to escape. Turn the control back to normal heat. Do this every 1-2 years and save a lot of money. Sediment is what makes that gurgling sound when the heater is running.
PAN: Every heater should be on a pan that drains to the outside of the house. Look in the pan at least once per week to make sure there is no water, signifying the hot water heater needs to be replaced. I have a battery operated wet alarm in my pan. If the tank leaks, the alarm will beep loudly and let me know, IT'S TIME !
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