[17362]

Originally Posted by KennyP

I jumped ship from the villages long ago for a variety of issues. Was tired of being told, I needed a new starter, new carburetor, new fuel pump, new clutches etc. As mentioned, I ran away from the villages, got a great mobile guy and my cart runs great and all I have to do is service it every year. Get away from the 8 dollar an hour guys with no training, youll be glad you did. Just my 2 cents

Kenny. We just bought a gas cart- still waiting for it to be delivered.
I would like to know if you could share with me your great mobile guy? I Tried to private message you but it said you don’t accept private messages. So hopefully you will see this.

[chas39]

On my 2nd gas Yamaha never a problem with engine or oil change in 20 years they come to the house & do the route service Don’t worry.

[blueash]

I don't own a gas cart. But I would simply call the 800 number for Yamaha and ask for a service expert for an opinion about 10W-30 vs 40 and whether it is ok that the local dealer is using a product other than that suggested by the manual.
1-866-747-4027
Of course they may refuse to answer your question and refer you back to your local dealer. Nah, I'm sure they will give you the answer to your concern.

[banjobob]

The motor will love both , not a big issue .

[Steven carrier]

Outside temps not engine temps.

[Scorpyo]

Originally Posted by wganderson13

I change the oil myself. Buy the cheap12 V pump from eBay-$25. It goes into the dip stick, works great. I was told change every 100 hours & it will last + 20 years. Nice & BLACK oil after 100 hours. I can't imagine going 500 hours between changes, that would be every 3 years?

Would you kindly supply more info on a pump. Thanks

[Pickel64]

Using the wrong oil could void your warranty if something goes wrong. Smart thinking. Thanks for the heads up as I will now check my 2010 Yamaha manual.

[nututv]

Your engine is not going to blow up because you have 10/40 vs 10/30. It'll run just fine with either.

[aa1949a]

I had 27,000 miles on my second cart and 23,000 on my first cart. the villages golf cart store in Brownwood changed my oil no problems.

[rzinski]

Buy an oil vacuum tank at Tractor Supply. It is pumped to create a vacuum in the tank. A tube connected to the tank is insert into the oil indicator hole. The valve is released and the oil is sucked out. The tank holds gallons. Pays for itself in 2 changes.
Most auto parts stores will take the used oil.

[Scorpyo]

Originally Posted by rzinski

Buy an oil vacuum tank at Tractor Supply. It is pumped to create a vacuum in the tank. A tube connected to the tank is insert into the oil indicator hole. The valve is released and the oil is sucked out. The tank holds gallons. Pays for itself in 2 changes.
Most auto parts stores will take the used oil.

Thanks. I did some research today. Found a 12v oil extraction pump at Academy Sports for $24.99. Looks good as well. Hooks to the battery. One hose goes down the dipstick hole. The other hose points to the neighbor’s property (hope the trolls don’t read this). Hit the switch and away you go. Wish I had thought about this when I changed the oil in my pressure washer.

[John_W]

Originally Posted by 17362

Kenny. We just bought a gas cart- still waiting for it to be delivered.
I would like to know if you could share with me your great mobile guy? I Tried to private message you but it said you don’t accept private messages. So hopefully you will see this.

The two most used and recommended (do a search using the button at the top) home golf cart maintenance and repair techs are;

Willlie Wilcoxin (352) 255-1369 I've used him since 2011

Todd Casey (352) 465-3934 Todd Casey Golf Cart Repairs Website


At home golf cart service

[donfey]

And Mobil1 10W40 is good in virtually anything you drive - all year long.

[CoachKandSportsguy]

my god people, its just a lawnmower with 4 wheels!

[biker1]

Some new German cars, such as Porsche, specify 0W-40 (synthetic). Many Japanese cars specify 0W-20. For Yamaha golf carts, 0W-30, 5W-30, or 10W-30 are all OK. The second number, essentially the viscosity at operating temperature, is the important number. Buy whatever is on sale and change it according to the owner’s manual recommendation. I tend to buy Mobil-1 (synthetic) because I can get it for about $3 a quart after rebate.

Originally Posted by Win1894

I would never consider using a 10W-40 oil in this age of synthetic oils. A quality full synthetic 0W-30 or 5W-30 will give you excellent start-up protection and once at operating temperature, excellent flow for cooling and extended wear protection. Today's 30 viscosity synthetics have much better high temperature shear strength than a conventional 40 viscosity oil. The only reason a 10W-30 oil exists is becasue they, before synthetic oil chemistry, couldn't easily make a 5W-30 oil. The only reason you can still buy a 10W-40 oil is because there are still some really old engines around whose manufacturers at the time recommended it. There is no good technical reason to use it.