Call Willies Golf Cart Service. He comes to you. Great people. Google it.

Golf Cart Service by Willie's
 

I use Willie's golf cart service. They come to the house, do oil and filter, gas filter and sparkplug, check the tires and check the battery. They also do cart service at your home like belts, front end and other mechanical issues. we have used them for 10+ years, reliable, courteous and more than helpful, even meeting us at a parking lot and trailoring us home one time. Their number is in the Daily Sun 352-255-1369.

We go to Gordon’s Garage

I used Willies last year when I broke a zerk fitting off trying to lube the secondary clutch. He charged 35 bucks and had to pull the clutch to replace it. He even explained how to get the grease gun loose if I ever did it again ! They should also grease the clutches when they do service. They pull the rear brakes and clean them as well.

Thanks for the advice, y'all. On your recommendation, I called Willie's and they will be here this week. At $70 they are a little expensive, but they are coming to my house to do the work. I suppose there must be an oil filter involved somewhere along the line. I've always changed my own oil and filter in my cars, but it is much easier to get rid of the old oil where I live up north.

Whether it has an oil filter or not depends on the brand. Yamahas use a splash lubrication system and do not have an oil filter. As far as I know, EZ-GO and Club Car do have oil filters.

Old oil is easy to recycle. I use Autozone, there are several in the area.

Yes, there is a little trick; you need to unscrew the fitting at the end of the hose a little bit.

Exactly! I know that now and it was a good tip. Used to grease cars as a kid working at Phillip's 66 and never had the issue of a stuck grease gun.
At least as well as I can remember :icon_wink:. I may have forgotten a
few things.
Just tried to muscle it of and broke it leaving part in a tricky spot to get out. Live and learn.

Ohiobuckeye
 

Oh man, do it yourself! You don’t have to crawl under it, just raise or just look under the drivers side of your golf cart & you’ll see a oil drain nut just like on your car. Unscrew it & let it drain. The hardest part is getting down & looking under your cart. If I was there I would do it for you, so save your money

Carts and Clubs in Ocala do both my carts. They come to the driveway and do all the maintenance once a year. There is a lot more to it than just the oil. They do like a 40 point check including adjusting the brakes, belts, etc. I highly recommend. I have used Todd Casey and he is good also. I have used a few of the others recommended above and was not impressed, enough said.

The one problem I see with this method of not getting all the oil pumped out from the top is that sludge or sediment lies at the bottom of your oil tank (dark, gooey substance). It may be building up. I would always drain from the bottom myself.

Hi. I'm curious. I changed my own oil in my cars and motorcycles and used synthetic oil, so I'm kind of familiar with oil changes. I changed the oil in my 2017 Yamaha cart. I believe the manual says don't use synthetic oil because of some "splash" process whatever that is. I'd prefer to use synthetic. Any advice?
Also, my first oil change on the Yamaha was done by the dealer (at my home). He used a pump to extract the oil. Afterwards I checked the oil and the color was not what you would expect from an oil change. The next time I did it myself and took all the oil out from the bottom. Later when I checked the oil it looked perfectly new. If I was going to get someone else to change it in the future I'd avoid the pump method. However, if you change your oil every year I guess it probably wouldn't really matter which method was employed. I guess I'm kind of a stickler. I like to know that I'm replacing as much of the old with as much as the new as possible.

would highly recommend Southern Cartworks. 352-391-2047. Have used them for service work and have scheduled a yearly inspection and oil change for next week. They come right to your home and do the service work at the end of your driveway.

Some manufacturers say that synthetic oil is too slippery and consequently doesn't lubricate as well on splash lubricated engines. Most small 4 stroke engines use splash lubrication. Lawn mowers, snow blowers, most garden tractors, most golf carts, etc.

I have run synthetic in ALL my small engines up north because they don't get as thick as molasses in the cold weather. Synthetic oils last longer, don't shear apart as quickly, etc.

If there are examples of synthetic oils destroying common small engines, I've yet to hear of it.

There are issues with synthetics and propane and a few other minor issues, but as a whole, even where it's cautioned against, the better lubrication and longer life of a synthetic outweighs the downside.

Run what you want, just make sure it's a current oil and not something off the shelf from 30 years ago. While oil doesn't go bad unless contaminated, new oil, even regular oil, is vastly improved over oils from 20+ years ago.

If your cart does not have an oil filter (Yamaha) then it is wise to use the oil drain plug rather than a topsider. If you use a topsider then warm the engine before draining to force containments into suspension.

Synthetic oil is saturated and therefore does not oxidize...It is its only advantage. Since it is saturated, it cant hold contaminates in suspension which is a disadvantage. Just use a straight SAE 30 for shear stability and cleanliness in an air cooled engine...4 bucks a quart at Walmart.