Ironite, milorganite, fertilizer

[vinnie]

Can someone please explain to me what months I should be considering feeding my lawn.
Scotts Turf builder I would think I could use twice per year
Milorganite I could use twice per year...mixing it up fertilizer and then milorganite then fertilizer and then milorganite.
Ironite...I have no idea...spring and fall?
I want to try to get into a steady program and make my lawn healthy.
If someone is pretty savvy, please give me a schedule as to what to use and when.
I might add there are different fertilizers and yet I would not know when to use which one...and when
I am ready to use whatever whenever. I have the worst lawn in the neighborhood and I want that to change.
Mind you...I had lots of weeds and grubs....got rid of both and asadded 2 pallets of sod
Just need to start over and some local knowledge could go a long way to achieving my goal
Thanks in advance

[Villageswimmer]

Can someone please explain to me what months I should be considering feeding my lawn.
Scotts Turf builder I would think I could use twice per year
Milorganite I could use twice per year...mixing it up fertilizer and then milorganite then fertilizer and then milorganite.
Ironite...I have no idea...spring and fall?
I want to try to get into a steady program and make my lawn healthy.
If someone is pretty savvy, please give me a schedule as to what to use and when.
I might add there are different fertilizers and yet I would not know when to use which one...and when
I am ready to use whatever whenever. I have the worst lawn in the neighborhood and I want that to change.
Mind you...I had lots of weeds and grubs....got rid of both and asadded 2 pallets of sod
Just need to start over and some local knowledge could go a long way to achieving my goals
Thanks in advance

I would strongly suggest you call the UF IFAS Sumter County Extension office at 352 569 6862 for advice before putting any chemicals on your lawn. You could be doing more harm than good. Both Lake and Marion have extension offices as well. Best to ask the real experts on Florida turf than to make a costly mistake that could kill the lawn. Good luck.

[Dr Winston O Boogie jr]

If you go to the Scott's website you can be set up on a program for this area and your type of grass and get alerts when it is time to put down certain products.

[vinnie]

thanks

[Bogie Shooter]

Call KB Lawn & Landscaping 352-748-4400.
After 5+ years of Massy with poor results and then 3+ years of doing it myself, trying to follow schedules from Scotts and others with poor results, called KB.
After 15 months very happy with lawn and their service.

[vinnie]

Thanks for the tip about KB...will keep it on file. I am not at the point where I will turn it over but may if this does not work. I take care of 4 acres up north, have a utility cart like golf course maintenance and sprayers to hook up behind it. No problems. I understand all the bad things that happen down here happen when I am gone...during the summer. i have had Leeco and then had a guy who worked on Lopez and both failed. I am going with a guy that will do everything ...cut, trim take care of sprinklers etc. My problem stems from my watering system failing.. thus grubs etc. I have taken care of that. I intend to handle this myself and take a more active approach because i have seen how thees outfits spray...not so good. If you are here, then you call them and they come out. I am not here and why do I have to call anyway when they should see what customer sees. I am keeping KB on file and will move in that direction next since i want ONE outfit to do everything. I intend to be proactive during 7 months I am here and then have them continue my game plan. We'll see if I need KB. Thanks

[autumnspring]

You've not stated what type of grass you have. In the villages it is likely St. Augustine in the Older sections and Empire Zoysia in the newer sections. Each type has different problems and requires different care.
In most places in the Villages the soil stinks. It is sandy clay with a PH of 7.5-8 very alkaline. You need to add organic matter and it is far better to add it before you lay down new sod. Once you go to the expense of adding organic matter it will better hold water so you will need less water, it will better hold fertilizer so it will last longer. and it will lower the PH slightly.

[Stdole]

You can also go on the "Empire Zoysia" web site for advice.. if that is the grass
you have... also you should not need Ironite if you are using Milorganite.. as it
already had iron... I have been using it for years almost anytime of the year..
low in nitrogen so it will not have your grass greening up... just very good for the
soil... Spars on Rt. 44 a little less expensive than Lowes or Home Depot.

[JP]

I use Millorganite and have the best lawn in the neighborhood. I reapply when the lawn looks less green. Works great because not so much nitrogen like Scott's and it is like a composting type material---something our soils around here need. Also has added Iron which lawns need. I apply it 2-3 times the recommended amount.

[rubicon]

You've not stated what type of grass you have. In the villages it is likely St. Augustine in the Older sections and Empire Zoysia in the newer sections. Each type has different problems and requires different care.
In most places in the Villages the soil stinks. It is sandy clay with a PH of 7.5-8 very alkaline. You need to add organic matter and it is far better to add it before you lay down new sod. Once you go to the expense of adding organic matter it will better hold water so you will need less water, it will better hold fertilizer so it will last longer. and it will lower the PH slightly.

Yes that's what I found when I moved here. Once massey worked that out no further problems

[autumnspring]

I use Millorganite and have the best lawn in the neighborhood. I reapply when the lawn looks less green. Works great because not so much nitrogen like Scott's and it is like a composting type material---something our soils around here need. Also has added Iron which lawns need. I apply it 2-3 times the recommended amount.

Fortunately for all of us your lawn can't read. I do like the idea of going to the cooperative extension. They have been very helpful.
First thing I would do is determine the type of grass you have.
Secondly,I would have a soil test done. Re: Milorganite and Ironite. We actually have plenty of iron in our soil but it is locked up and unavailable to the plants due to the alkaline PH of the soil. Expect 7.5-8. Ideal for a lawn is about 6.5. On top of that most fertilizers use UREA as a cheap source of nitrogen. It makes the soil even more alkaline. Best thing you can do is add organic matter. Putting it on top-ie milorganite does little or nothing. You need to get it into the soil. I've been drilling holes 8 inches down into my lawn and filling them with manure. I have 5,000 sq feet of lawn AND IT IS A LOT OF WORK. Results I use far less water than my neighbors as it holds far more water than than the original limestone clay.

BEWARE OF USING MALORGANITE AND OR IRONITE-malorganite is milwaukee sewage sludge it has heavy metals in it-mercury, lead etc. The bag says do not use on crops you will eat. Ironite is waste from iron mines-it also says do not use on crops you will eat and it too has nasties like Mercury.

[Jima64]

If I could suggest two commercial products for the lawn One is called Ironex and the second is Complete or Chelamix. They are both liquid fertilizers that combined have all the minor minerals your lawn needs. Two companies I know sell these or their in house labeled brands. Forshaw in Ocala and Residex in Jacsonville or other ciites in Florida. A internet search would show these locations. I know that residex has their own in house brand that has both combined into one spray liquid. They will probably suggest you dry fertilize twice a year, spring and summer or fall. Hope this helps.

[JP]

Fortunately for all of us your lawn can't read. I do like the idea of going to the cooperative extension. They have been very helpful.
First thing I would do is determine the type of grass you have.
Secondly,I would have a soil test done. Re: Milorganite and Ironite. We actually have plenty of iron in our soil but it is locked up and unavailable to the plants due to the alkaline PH of the soil. Expect 7.5-8. Ideal for a lawn is about 6.5. On top of that most fertilizers use UREA as a cheap source of nitrogen. It makes the soil even more alkaline. Best thing you can do is add organic matter. Putting it on top-ie milorganite does little or nothing. You need to get it into the soil. I've been drilling holes 8 inches down into my lawn and filling them with manure. I have 5,000 sq feet of lawn AND IT IS A LOT OF WORK. Results I use far less water than my neighbors as it holds far more water than than the original limestone clay.

BEWARE OF USING MALORGANITE AND OR IRONITE-malorganite is milwaukee sewage sludge it has heavy metals in it-mercury, lead etc. The bag says do not use on crops you will eat. Ironite is waste from iron mines-it also says do not use on crops you will eat and it too has nasties like Mercury.

My landscapers suggested i use Millorganite and I have been very happy with the results and don't plan on eating my lawn.

[jebartle]

Millorganite is the best! Nice healthy lawn, we have St. Aug. grass. and we use Heron every other month.


I use Millorganite and have the best lawn in the neighborhood. I reapply when the lawn looks less green. Works great because not so much nitrogen like Scott's and it is like a composting type material---something our soils around here need. Also has added Iron which lawns need. I apply it 2-3 times the recommended amount.

[HimandMe]

After the tribulations we put our last lawn through, we called Fertigator this time. Now the lawn is finally pest free, green, healthy and the envy of the neighborhood. Now my roses are looking peak-ed as if they are saying YOU stay away from me....and I try so hard too.

[autumnspring]

After the tribulations we put our last lawn through, we called Fertigator this time. Now the lawn is finally pest free, green, healthy and the envy of the neighborhood. Now my roses are looking peak-ed as if they are saying YOU stay away from me....and I try so hard too.

Our soil is lacking in magnesium. Roses like high magnesium levels. Solution is easy and inexpensive. Buy magnesium sulfate, same stuff as Epsom salts which you may already have. Mix one or two table spoons per gallon and apply 1/2 a gallon to each rose bush. Since magnesium sulfate is water soluble you need to apply often-once every week or two. Roses also need SUN. If, they are in the shade-you need to take them out and plant something else. Most plant problems come down to simply the wrong plant in the wrong place.

[Michigan Farmer]

I do my own lawn and think I have the nicest on my street. Check out 2085 Vision in Hillsborough and if you think I can help feel free to stop in and we'll talk or leave a phone number and I'll call you.

[ditka41]

We should be aware that "Milorganite" actually IS fertilizer, so alternating applications as OP posted would be redundant. The name is derived from Milwaukee / organics and it is simply processed and dried "sludge" from their Sanitary district.
I sold some of the original processing equipment to the City of Milwaukee when their facility was built. Yes, it is what you think it is and performs well in many lawns.

[vinnie]

I do my own lawn and think I have the nicest on my street. Check out 2085 Vision in Hillsborough and if you think I can help feel free to stop in and we'll talk or leave a phone number and I'll call you.
I would like to do my own lawn but i am gone 6 months out of here. And all the damage that can be done happens when I am gone May through October. But call me at 315.246.1056 if you have any tips
Thanks

[Stdole]

Ace Hardware sells Milorganite for $9.99 per bag... less than Spars and Lowes..
One of the best additives for your lawns... smells a little bit for the first two days or the first rain.... Check out where it comes from both the State and etc.....

Good Stuff