New Roofs - Power Vent vs. Hip Roof Side Ridge Vents

[BostonRich]

Yes, I am getting a new roof. It's original from 2004.

My insurance company has suggested that I replace my large power vent with two hip roof side ridge vents. He said it would be more aesthetic, lower my electric bill and actually function better. I have found articles on the web that seem to support this. Has anyone done this?

[Chatbrat]

Any thing you can do to remove any rotating powered equipment the better, less fire hazard, lower electric bills

[Arctic Fox]

Yes, I am getting a new roof. It's original from 2004.

My insurance company has suggested that I replace my large power vent with two hip roof side ridge vents. He said it would be more aesthetic, lower my electric bill and actually function better. I have found articles on the web that seem to support this. Has anyone done this?

Have you considered solar-powered fans? They are more effective than vents and, being low powered (not mains), are not a significant fire risk.

[rjm1cc]

I have the vents and no fan. I have check the tempeture between outside, garage and attic. The differences ranges up to about 10 degrees. Now the garage is cooler than outdoors in the morning and the attic is a lot hotter in the evening so a fan running in the evening might be of some help but overall I don't think a fan is needed, epically during the afternoons. Turn off you fan and measure the temps and see what happens with your house.

[Toymeister]

Let's discuss facts rather than make generalized statements. My facts are based upon a electricity monitor which checks power consumption 10,000 a second. I know how much a fan costs to operate, time of day, hours and minutes a day, month and year

Powered fans come in three flavors, solar, big box store power fans and efficient fans, usually found on line.

I can state unequivocally that solar fans do not operate well into the evening that a thermostat controlled fans do. In other words it quits before the job is done. Readers may love, love their solar fans but that is the cold hard truth. Not enough? Our home inspection guru who posts here is in hundreds of attics here has posted that they make no difference in perceived temp.

That leaves powered fans. But wait exactly how long do fans run in a year? 213 hours.

A big how store fan uses 380 watts or 80.94 kwh a year. At SECO rates that is 9.46 a year.

An energy efficient fan consumes 22 to 120 watts (multiple speeds) or up to 2.99 a year. Quiet cool fans on amazon.

So, cost of operation is simply NOT a factor. You have been given bad advice based upon folklore. I would retain the power vent.

[BostonRich]

Let's discuss facts rather than make generalized statements. My facts are based upon a electricity monitor which checks power consumption 10,000 a second. I know how much a fan costs to operate, time of day, hours and minutes a day, month and year

Powered fans come in three flavors, solar, big box store power fans and efficient fans, usually found on line.

I can state unequivocally that solar fans do not operate well into the evening that a thermostat controlled fans do. In other words it quits before the job is done. Readers may love, love their solar fans but that is the cold hard truth. Not enough? Our home inspection guru who posts here is in hundreds of attics here has posted that they make no difference in perceived temp.

That leaves powered fans. But wait exactly how long do fans run in a year? 213 hours.

A big how store fan uses 380 watts or 80.94 kwh a year. At SECO rates that is 9.46 a year.

An energy efficient fan consumes 22 to 120 watts (multiple speeds) or up to 2.99 a year. Quiet cool fans on amazon.

So, cost of operation is simply NOT a factor. You have been given bad advice based upon folklore. I would retain the power vent.

Thanks for that info but how do you figure only 213 hours a year?

[Toymeister]

Thanks for that info but how do you figure only 213 hours a year?

The energy monitor tells me what is running for how long for which days and how much it costs.

You may think the fan comes on and stays on for hours, it isn't always so. It can come on, cool the attic shut off only to come on again . A rain storm almost immediately shuts off the fan as the roof cools.

Now certainly we can debate run time for a fan set to 130 degrees vice 125. But that is not the point.

If you like discover what is on in your home, what is driving the bill. Sense energy monitor, Sense: Track energy use in real time to make your home more energy efficient. (http://www.sense.com), Amazon $299.

[wisbad1]

Have you considered solar-powered fans? They are more effective than vents and, being low powered (not mains), are not a significant fire risk.
Neighbour had them put in, waste of money.

[biker1]

If you are referring to powered attic ventilators (mounted in your roof), don't bother. This has been researched by the energy labs. Heat is primarily transferred from the hot underside of your roof sheathing to everything in your attic through radiative transfer. An attic ventilator will not address the radiative transfer issue. Powered ventilators may also suck conditioned air from your home if the ceiling penetrations are not sealed well. Save your money.

Yes, I am getting a new roof. It's original from 2004.

My insurance company has suggested that I replace my large power vent with two hip roof side ridge vents. He said it would be more aesthetic, lower my electric bill and actually function better. I have found articles on the web that seem to support this. Has anyone done this?

[Toymeister]

If you are referring to powered attic ventilators (mounted in your roof), don't bother. This has been researched by the energy labs. Heat is primarily transferred from the hot underside of your roof sheathing to everything in your attic through radiative transfer. An attic ventilator will not address the radiative transfer issue. Powered ventilators may also suck conditioned air from your home if the ceiling penetrations are not sealed well. Save your money.
It has been researched for identical homes built in (wait for it)


1979

Air ducts and homes in general are much more airtight then they were 41 years ago. It is a rumor that refuses to die.

[biker1]

Homes may be better sealed than previously but the physics of radiative transfer hasn't changed since 1979. There is a reason why radiant barriers, if properly installed, work. Power ventilators are not worthwhile because they don't address the primary mechanism of heat transfer. Reread my post as I used the words "may also suck conditioned air if the ceiling penetrations aren't sealed well ".

It has been researched for identical homes built in (wait for it)


1979

Air ducts and homes in general are much more airtight then they were 41 years ago. It is a rumor that refuses to die.

[Toymeister]

Homes may be better sealed than previously but the physics of radiative transfer hasn't changed since 1979. There is a reason why radiant barriers, if properly installed, work. Power ventilators are not worthwhile. Reread my post as I used the words "may also suck conditioned air if the ceiling penetrations aren't sealed well ".

Ah, the difference between us is I know exactly how much radiant barriers save and you do not. Bottom line is radiant barriers will not save enough in your grandchildrens lives to pay for themselves.

I also have toured under construction homes here and have seen the sealing of the ceiling penitrations. Now if I were doing the ceiling it would be better but they certainly are sealed 'well' also the duct connections are sealed.

[BostonRich]

I am more confused than ever researching this online. Georgia has apparently even banned them!

Georgia Pulls the Attic-Ventilator Plug

Attic ventilator fans have taken a whupping in the court of building science, played starring roles on useless-products lists, and gotten roughed up in the comments sections of blogs. Now they’re gadget non grata in Georgia’s supplement to the 2009 International Energy Conservation Code.

Georgia allows solar-powered attic ventilators, but attic ventilators designed to use grid power “shall not be connected to the electric grid.” In other words, you can have one, as long as it’s not plugged in.

Dealing with the heat. Despite the compromise, the rap on attic ventilators is now anchored in code. Promoters of these machines say the devices help cool attics by exhausting hot air to the outside. However, attic-fan critics say the fans often draw makeup air from a home’s interior. During the summer, there’s obviously a major energy penalty if your attic fan is pulling air-conditioned indoor air from the living space into the attic through leaks in the ceiling.

Frequently cited research results from a study conducted in 1993 and one conducted by the Florida Solar Energy Center show that attic exhaust fans also can depressurize the living area to the extent they create potentially hazardous backdrafting conditions, particularly in homes with atmospherically vented gas appliances.

[biker1]

You have no idea what I know or don't know. Once again, the physics of heat transfer in the attic is dominated by radiative transfer. Attic ventilators will not address that issue. Continued rambling about ceiling penetration sealing doesn't change the physics. Got it?

Ah, the difference between us is I know exactly how much radiant barriers save and you do not. Bottom line is radiant barriers will not save enough in your grandchildrens lives to pay for themselves.

I also have toured under construction homes here and have seen the sealing of the ceiling penitrations. Now if I were doing the ceiling it would be better but they certainly are sealed 'well' also the duct connections are sealed.

[biker1]

Yes, that is part of it. However, people have assumed that you can save energy by trying to reduce attic air temperature with a powered ventilator. In reality, conduction of heat is less important that radiative transfer from the underside of the roof sheathing so they aren't effective.

The most effective technique is spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof sheathing with the attic sealed from the outside air. This insulates the roof sheathing so that you don't have a large hot radiator. This technique will keep your attic at about 10 degrees warmer than the air conditioned part of your house and really makes sense if your HVAC ductwork is in the attic. I speced this in my previous custom home (outside The Villages) and it is very effective. Unfortunately, it is an expensive retrofit - best done during the construction of the house.

I am more confused than ever researching this online. Georgia has apparently even banned them!

Georgia Pulls the Attic-Ventilator Plug

Attic ventilator fans have taken a whupping in the court of building science, played starring roles on useless-products lists, and gotten roughed up in the comments sections of blogs. Now they’re gadget non grata in Georgia’s supplement to the 2009 International Energy Conservation Code.

Georgia allows solar-powered attic ventilators, but attic ventilators designed to use grid power “shall not be connected to the electric grid.” In other words, you can have one, as long as it’s not plugged in.

Dealing with the heat. Despite the compromise, the rap on attic ventilators is now anchored in code. Promoters of these machines say the devices help cool attics by exhausting hot air to the outside. However, attic-fan critics say the fans often draw makeup air from a home’s interior. During the summer, there’s obviously a major energy penalty if your attic fan is pulling air-conditioned indoor air from the living space into the attic through leaks in the ceiling.

Frequently cited research results from a study conducted in 1993 and one conducted by the Florida Solar Energy Center show that attic exhaust fans also can depressurize the living area to the extent they create potentially hazardous backdrafting conditions, particularly in homes with atmospherically vented gas appliances.

[John_W]

I thought all the homes in TV were built with ridge vents. My CYV has them, I think that's really all you need. If you want more air, crack open the attic access steps in your garage. I use to do that, then I realized two things. The fire block to the house from garage is gone. Also termites don't live above 120 degrees, so those wooden trusses are about the only worry I have in a masonry home, so i don't mind a hot attic. My electric bill is never more than $85 with SECO anyway.

https://i.pinimg.com/474x/43/75/bd/4375bd55276cf2a9c3d5413cd834907f.jpg

[Toymeister]

You have no idea what I know or don't know. Once again, the physics of heat transfer in the attic is dominated by radiative transfer. Attic ventilators will not address that issue. Continued rambling about ceiling penetration sealing doesn't change the physics. Got it?
I know a tremendous amount on attic cooling in TV. In fact I have 631 billion* data points on this. I will never understand why posters here can not appreciate it when someone is helping with facts supported by reams of data.

*10,000 a second for two years

[biker1]

I tend to believe the scientists who have done real research on building science. Being a scientist myself, I go with the facts. You don't seem to understand basic physics. Whatever, feel free to carry on.

I know a tremendous amount on attic cooling in TV. In fact I have 631 billion* data points on this. I will never understand why posters here can not appreciate it when someone is helping with facts supported by reams of data.

*10,000 a second for two years

[Toymeister]

I tend to believe the scientists who have done real research on building science. Being a scientist myself, I go with the facts. You don't seem to understand basic physics. Whatever, feel free to carry on.
Then you will appreciate that the actual savings from radiant barriers are 3 to 5 percent of cooling costs as measured by users. Or one to two percent of actual electric bills

Your best guide is the real world. But if you want a scientific study here you go National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) Home Page | NREL (https://www.nrel.gov) › docsPDF
Internal Roof and Attic Thermal Radiation Control Retrofit Strategies for ... - NREL. It found 2.4 degrees Celsius cooler attics in those with radiant barriers. While 4.32 degrees is great a attic fan that can lower the temp ten to 20 degrees is better.

Guess what? That study found. Wait for it


Three percent savings in COOLING costs. So here we go scientific proof.

But feel free to carry on. Better yet do your own study as I have.

[Chatbrat]

Instead of worrying about saving money, worry about making money, IMHO, most people would be way ahead if they invested the money they spent on energy saving devices & other things related to their domicile in the companies selling the technology and other related items.

[Toymeister]

Instead of worrying about saving money, worry about making money, IMHO, most people would be way ahead if they invested the money they spent on energy saving devices & other things related to their domicile in the companies selling the technology and other related items.

The reason that I HAVE money to invest is BECAUSE I save money in a myriad of ways.

[BostonRich]

You may think the fan comes on and stays on for hours, it isn't always so. It can come on, cool the attic shut off only to come on again . A rain storm almost immediately shuts off the fan as the roof cools.

I guess you can look at this two ways.

1 - It doesn't cost much to operate since it only runs 213 hours a year.

2 - It doesn't do much since it only runs for 213 hours a year.

[Toymeister]

I guess you can look at this two ways.

1 - It doesn't cost much to operate since it only runs 213 hours a year.

2 - It doesn't do much since it only runs for 213 hours a year.

3. I have the thermostat set too high.

4. It is so effective than it only needs 213 hours to cool the attic.

Or something else.

But here again the OP got 16 years out of a roof that was power vented. Above average life expectancy?

[steel45]

Yes. Ridge vents are a must and are very efficient

[photo1902]

Yes. Ridge vents are a must and are very efficient

Agree. Ridge vents are the only thing you need. They don’t wear out, stop working, or need replacing.

[biker1]

Agreed. Also, houses are designed with sufficient vented soffit area to match the ridge vents and the round passive vents at the top of the roof with respect to airflow. I believe the reason for this ventilation is to prevent any moisture buildup.

Agree. Ridge vents are the only thing you need. They don’t wear out, stop working, or need replacing.

[Annie66]

My oh my ….. we have some folks with their knickers on fire.

I am taking care of a friend's home. I knew he wanted to install a radiant barrier while he was gone, so I placed a remote temperature sensor in his attic. Before the barrier was installed, it read, on average, about 129 deg F during the afternoon. After the radiant barrier was installed, the attic's average temp was 113 deg F during the afternoon. The heat load on the ceiling is significantly reduced.

[Bethwill]

Why are you two getting so intense about a minor issue. It all sounds like a waste of money. Life is too short and I'm sure you both can find something better to do with your time than fight about who knows more about heat transference.

[glsatterlee]

Yes, Foam is the absolute best. I have begged for two years to have foam sprayed in my new house, during build, but The Villages would not do it. But times are changing, and I’m hearing rumors that it might start happening.

[theruizs]

I have no idea what the others here know or don’t know either. I do know solar powered fans have done little to no good on our Ivy. We have two but see no difference. I would suggest you get the advice of “real” experts and research actual facts and make your decision based on that. There are a lot of opinions on this forum, but they are just that.

[NotFromAroundHere]

Then you will appreciate that the actual savings from radiant barriers are 3 to 5 percent of cooling costs as measured by users. Or one to two percent of actual electric bills

While 4.32 degrees is great a attic fan that can lower the temp ten to 20 degrees is better.

Guess what? That study found. Wait for it


Three percent savings in COOLING costs.

I think you're saying that either method saves about the same amount? Neither seems like a lot of savings for the investment. 1 - 2% of my electric bill comes to around $20 a year. Not enough to pay for radiant. With a fan, a net of about $10 a year. That will take a while to pay off also. Not worth my trouble I think.

[Gunny2403]

Hip vents are passive and will offer limited ventilation. Prefer Power Vent with humidistat.

[biker1]

You have a humidity problem in your attic? How do you know?


Hip vents are passive and will offer limited ventilation. Prefer Power Vent with humidistat.

[biker1]

Yes, we specified spray foam for a new house construction and the builder took care of it. It works well and keeps the attic relatively cool. The attic is completely sealed to the outside. The only downside is that it is pretty expensive so there may be a long payback period. You do save some cost by being able to go with a smaller HVAC system because of reduced heat loading on the house. I did the heat load calculation myself (manual j) and got it correct - I specified a Carrier system with a 2 speed compressor and the system ran nearly continuously at half-speed during the summer with essentially no cycling - this is what you want. The installers must be careful to make sure their mixing guns are working properly otherwise you could wind up with an uninhabitable house. The spray foam is the mixture of two different chemicals. There are two types of spray foam; open and close cell. Each has their pros and cons. I specified closed cell. The attic, in south GA, never got above 85 degrees. The air handler and all duct work was in the attic.

If you get a chance, go visit Green Key Village just outside The Villages. They are building with spray foam insulation and some other proven energy efficient techniques.


Yes, Foam is the absolute best. I have begged for two years to have foam sprayed in my new house, during build, but The Villages would not do it. But times are changing, and I’m hearing rumors that it might start happening.

[Heytubes]

Having been in the ventilation business in another life the only ridge vent that is any good is made by Airvent. But keep in mind that the wind has to be blowing to create a vacuum effect. The most effective method is solar power fans placed at the peak of the roof without any ridge caps thus preventing negative air flow, but you must have enough properly installed eave vents, i.e., with the vents facing out for any method to work properly. By the way, there is a 26% Federal Solar Tax credit on the labor and material costs of those fans.

[BostonRich]

I have no idea what the others here know or don’t know either. I do know solar powered fans have done little to no good on our Ivy. We have two but see no difference. I would suggest you get the advice of “real” experts and research actual facts and make your decision based on that. There are a lot of opinions on this forum, but they are just that.

Unfortunately, doing my research on the web leads to the same results. Totally different opinions from the "experts" too.

[Denvercane]

Let's discuss facts rather than make generalized statements. My facts are based upon a electricity monitor which checks power consumption 10,000 a second. I know how much a fan costs to operate, time of day, hours and minutes a day, month and year

Powered fans come in three flavors, solar, big box store power fans and efficient fans, usually found on line.

I can state unequivocally that solar fans do not operate well into the evening that a thermostat controlled fans do. In other words it quits before the job is done. Readers may love, love their solar fans but that is the cold hard truth. Not enough? Our home inspection guru who posts here is in hundreds of attics here has posted that they make no difference in perceived temp.

That leaves powered fans. But wait exactly how long do fans run in a year? 213 hours.

A big how store fan uses 380 watts or 80.94 kwh a year. At SECO rates that is 9.46 a year.

An energy efficient fan consumes 22 to 120 watts (multiple speeds) or up to 2.99 a year. Quiet cool fans on amazon.

So, cost of operation is simply NOT a factor. You have been given bad advice based upon folklore. I would retain the power vent.

If your house is properly insulated, the venting that is there is sufficient. People try to sale items you don't need. Sorta like those houses with lighting rods. Cooling the attic by 10 deg will make no difference to your electric bill.

[Denvercane]

My oh my ….. we have some folks with their knickers on fire.

I am taking care of a friend's home. I knew he wanted to install a radiant barrier while he was gone, so I placed a remote temperature sensor in his attic. Before the barrier was installed, it read, on average, about 129 deg F during the afternoon. After the radiant barrier was installed, the attic's average temp was 113 deg F during the afternoon. The heat load on the ceiling is significantly reduced.
Who cares about the 10 degrees in the attic. Measure the ceiling inside the house and you won't see any difference. Measure a wall at the 6 foot level where your body spends most of your time. There will be no change. These vents are just a shell game by the sellers

[Denvercane]

It's not 3% of your electric bill. The cooling of the house is only part of the bill. $100 electric bill, $30 of it for AC, so 3% of $30 is less than a dollar a month. Do get suckered in by a snake oil salesman

[islandtiempo]

Yes, I am getting a new roof. It's original from 2004.

My insurance company has suggested that I replace my large power vent with two hip roof side ridge vents. He said it would be more aesthetic, lower my electric bill and actually function better. I have found articles on the web that seem to support this. Has anyone done this?

I also researched this. Those power vents are not nearly as effective as additional roof venting. Do you mind sharing who is your insurance company. First I've heard of an insurance company being that proactive with good info.

[ProfessorDave]

WOW. Interesting to hear and see all of this advice.
The problem you may have - is that many "hip" roofs don't allow for enough ridge vent to be installed and be to code - or effective.

In my career - one of my responsibilities was for the largest ridge vent manufacturer (and shingle) in North America.
Here is a simple fact: on many of the hip roofs I see in The Villages - a ridge vent does not provide enough "exhaust."
When you don't have enough "exhaust" you have the following potential consequences:
1) Health Risk... because the recipe for mold is warm air, dark environment, organic material and moisture.
2) Void Manufacturer Warranty... every shingle manufacturer requires ventilation to code. Not enough exhaust - not to code!
3) Higher Energy Bills... % moisture in the insulation drops its effectiveness by 1/3
4) Shorten Shingle Life... too much heat to the roof deck fries out the shingles.

Me personally - keep the power vents!

[taruffi57]

I've been in roofing 41 yrs in Cen. Fla. ALL passive vents only depend upon heat rising. The big round vents, ridge venting or 4 ft. off-ridge vents probably allow approx. the same cubic footage of hot air to escape. It is my opinion that solar powered vents probably move more air, but since the solar panel is small, it can't power much of a fan. Hard wired round electric "power ventilators" move much more air, and in 16 yrs. of doing repairs (at least 2,500 jobs) and many power ventilators in The Villages, I have never seen nor heard of any fire from one. That is another myth - like fungus danger. Incidentally, a 3-tab shingle is warranteed 25 yrs. and the architectural 30 yrs. You people are replacing perfectly good roofs - because of your home owner's insur. company telling you that you have too, OR some estimator snowing you. (they work on commission). Lottsa scams going on too.

[taruffi57]

Any thing you can do to remove any rotating powered equipment the better, less fire hazard, lower electric bills
Don't be a part of the alarmist/fear/panic crowd. I've been in roofing in Cen. Fla. over 41 yrs. Worked on 5,000 roofs, owned my own company 24 yrs., done 2,500 repairs in TV. NEVER have I seen nor heard of any fire from a powered ventilator. There is no electric-to-combustible-material contact.

[BostonRich]

WOW. Interesting to hear and see all of this advice.
The problem you may have - is that many "hip" roofs don't allow for enough ridge vent to be installed and be to code - or effective.

In my career - one of my responsibilities was for the largest ridge vent manufacturer (and shingle) in North America.
Here is a simple fact: on many of the hip roofs I see in The Villages - a ridge vent does not provide enough "exhaust."
When you don't have enough "exhaust" you have the following potential consequences:
1) Health Risk... because the recipe for mold is warm air, dark environment, organic material and moisture.
2) Void Manufacturer Warranty... every shingle manufacturer requires ventilation to code. Not enough exhaust - not to code!
3) Higher Energy Bills... % moisture in the insulation drops its effectiveness by 1/3
4) Shorten Shingle Life... too much heat to the roof deck fries out the shingles.

Me personally - keep the power vents!

Ah true BUT these relatively new "Hip Roof Ridge Vents" go down the sides of the roof.

[Mustagotlost]

Ok so this is information over load. My issue is the garage gets very warm. Would it be best to put a screen garage door and leave my ridge vents alone?

[John_W]

Ok so this is information over load. My issue is the garage gets very warm. Would it be best to put a screen garage door and leave my ridge vents alone?

You're not going to get the garage temp cooler than the outside air, but it will be about the same temp with a screen and since it's in the shade, it will fill a lot better. If you really want to help it along, if you have installed attic steps, pull the door down about 6" and prop a small box to hold it open. You'll feel a good breeze. The negative is if there is a fire in the garage, it's going to spread to the main house very quickly. Also on a masonry home, the real worry for termites is the wooden trusses in you attic, by making it cooler terminates might enter. Termites won't live in temps above 120.

I have just a horizontal screen because it's half the price, and when I go in and out, I just slide one 3' section and close it back. I got the screen the first month I was in the home just after hearing a neighbor found a rattlesnake in his garage, but other benefits are well worth it, especially if your washer & dryer are in the garage like ours. It also makes the garage more attractive when the door is open, you only see a white screen, and it's a small bit of protection, but no one should accidently walk through a locked screen.

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/93691547_1600074756823717_3207555561759440896_n.jp g?_nc_cat=104&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=EAqICqS7Lw8AX81mV5x&_nc_ht=scontent-mia3-1.xx&oh=a70d6f52abdad4bc8009cb69208ab20a&oe=5EF4396E

[MandoMan]

Ok so this is information over load. My issue is the garage gets very warm. Would it be best to put a screen garage door and leave my ridge vents alone?

Yes.

[ProfessorDave]

Yes, I am getting a new roof. It's original from 2004.

My insurance company has suggested that I replace my large power vent with two hip roof side ridge vents. He said it would be more aesthetic, lower my electric bill and actually function better. I have found articles on the web that seem to support this. Has anyone done this?


Roofing – Facts You Should Know – For Your Best and Safest Choice
1) Told “ROOFER” Did A Great Job! … beware; anybody saying “they just finished and did a great job” doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Most workmanship defects do not show up until at least a year – typically years 3-5.
2) Roofer Recommended – Use My Name… these people are likely getting a $200 kick back from the roofer if you do that.
3) Quick Facts About Roofs
a. BBB (Better Business Bureau) … roofing is one of the biggest complaint areas
b. Warranty… why are manufacturer warranties so long? Because they know 9 out of 10 roofs are void the day they’re installed; scary, 99% of roofers don’t even know that.
c. Roof Performance… what is most important is underneath the shingle – what you don’t see. So – most roofers cut corners there to make money – because you wouldn’t know.
d. Insurance Claims… get three bids? Frankly, that is often ridiculous. Insurance is hoping that you’ll get three bids – choose the cheapest – and they’re off easy. Reality is – if you allow the roofer to negotiate on your behalf – they get whatever price they can justify to insurance – even if the quote to you was significantly lower. Lesson – sign up the BEST ROOFER – not the cheapest!
e. Contractors… almost every contractor in The Villages is a marketing company. The crews doing the work are subcontractors. So – even if they show you certifications, insurance, etc., it is basically crap – because the liability (and quality) is based on the crew. Since these marketing contractors (industry calls them “storm chasers” – that follow the wind and hail – they are off to the next storm – and don’t stand behind their warranties anyway. Their salespeople are NICE - make you FEEL GREAT – and make well over hundred thousand with this sales approach.
4) Some Things I Look/Ask For – Roofs I’ve Helped With:
a. Quality Shingle… avoid IKO, TAMKO, ATLAS (they are not great at honoring their warranties); acceptable is Owens Corning (but it is thin – not as attractive – less dimension); Best are CertainTeed (heavy) and GAF (great technology).
b. Starter Strip… insist it is a “pro grade” – not a common 3 -tab flipped over. And – make sure it is at BOTH the eave and rake edges. The eave and rake get the most wind uplift; the pro grade starter strip provides superior wind resistance.
c. Underlayment. Use synthetics; do not use the common paper (i.e. 15 or 30 lbs. felt)
d. Leak Barrier… some call it “ice and water shield. Make sure it is at ALL vulnerable areas including the valley and around all penetrations. These are “self-healing membranes” and when the house does a slight shift (all homes do), the roof will stay watertight.
e. Metal Flashing… make sure they do not “re-use” the old stuff. You want it custom fit with new metal.
f. Ridge Shingle… do not allow cheap 3 – tab which is common – you want a Pro Grade ridge shingle. When you don’t, you diminish your roof to a 20-year warranty essentially.
g. Fastening… two issues: 1) if they don’t check the air pressure, nails can be too deep (causes tears) or not deep enough (creates holes). MORE importantly, are they keeping the nails INSIDE THE NAIL ZONE. If not, more vulnerable to wind blow off.
h. Wind Mitigation Certification… get it; it can lower your homeowner’s insurance by over a $100 per year.
i. Ridge Vent… make sure it is on “all ridges” that are over heated spaces and also make sure it extends to at most 18 inches from each edge. Lots of contractor’s cheat – save money by not extending the vent to the full length. The risk is not enough ventilation, which results in these common issues:
i. Voided Warranty… not enough “exhaust” at the ridge to meet code.
ii. Health Risks… by not creating air flow, warm/moist are is trapped in the attic. The recipe for mold is warm moist air in a dark environment with organic material.
iii. High Energy Costs… 2% moisture in attic ventilation reduces the effectiveness by 1/3
iv. Roof Durability… if the deck (under the shingles) gets too hot, the shingles “fry” out – in Florida, typically lasts about 13 – 18 years max.
j. Hip Roof?... they typically have only a small area of ridge. Therefore, highly recommend solar powered vents to assure “exhaust” ventilation.
Hope this helps. If you want to deal director with a qualified crew – I might be able to help. My deal with them: if they do a roof for a “friend” they give me a $5.00 Starbucks gift certificate. (They wanted to give me more – I will not take it! We compromised on Starbucks.)

[BostonRich]

Thanks for all that info but you didn't mention Hip Roof Ridge Vents (see post #44). Are you familiar with them?

[islandtiempo]

The energy monitor tells me what is running for how long for which days and how much it costs.

You may think the fan comes on and stays on for hours, it isn't always so. It can come on, cool the attic shut off only to come on again . A rain storm almost immediately shuts off the fan as the roof cools.

Now certainly we can debate run time for a fan set to 130 degrees vice 125. But that is not the point.

If you like discover what is on in your home, what is driving the bill. Sense energy monitor, Sense: Track energy use in real time to make your home more energy efficient. (http://www.sense.com), Amazon $299.

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. This energy device is promising.

[Toymeister]

Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. This energy device is promising.
Yes, with data for your home you can quickly dispell the multiple myths presented here. While everyone has an opinion, the ability to Google some old data, and worse many have many believe in their superior ability to process information over anyone else, virtually no one has actual data.

If you get one of these monitors you will be surprised how many myths you have believed or how improvements in building science have changed homes performance over other homes that you have owned. One thing is certain, with this knowledge you can make decisions which will certainly result in savings paying for the unit. My savings exceeded 20%.

[BostonRich]

Yes, with data for your home you can quickly dispell the multiple myths presented here . . . One thing is certain, with this knowledge you can make decisions which will certainly result in savings paying for the unit. My savings exceeded 20%.

That sounds like a very interesting device and it provides some great information. But I am curious as to how it let you save over 20%. Is that over 20% of your electric bill?

You still have to run your devices. Knowing what the AC and dishwasher and dryer cost to run is great but you still need to run them, right?

Back north some times it was cheaper to run some things at night but I don't believe there is a differential rate structure here in Florida.

Very curious to hear your reply.

[Bbgranny1]

One advantage of hip roof - lower insurance charges.

[CFP Advisor]

RAAndre has a Great Post reminding us of the State of Georgia banning electric Solar Fans. They did their research and helped me decide NOT to install any fans on my new roof.
Owens Corning Platinum Contractors who install their shingles MUST USE RIDGE VENTS or Owens Corning will NOT issue their best warranty to the roof.
Below is a small part of research by Owens Corning that ANY ROOF VENTS along with Ridge Vents could be counter productive
and cause "Ventalation Short Circuit".

"Part of a Owens Corning article about ventalation"
Another common misconception is "more is better". Many people think that they can improve
ventilation of their attic by installing vents all throughout the roof surface. What they don’t know is this
causes a Ventilation Short Circuit. For instance, let’s say that Fred has a full soffit and ridge vent
system installed. But thinking that more is better, Fred decides to install a couple of vents about
halfway up the slope. Instead of improving his ventilation, he has now hampered it because air is now
exiting out the vents in the middle of the roof, before it reaches the ridge leaving the attic partially
unvented. Depending on wind pressure, air will also be taken in at the intermediate vents reducing
the intake at the eaves where it should be.

My new roof went on in May 2019 and I had more Ridge Vents installed than the original roof and my attic cooled down right away as I kept checking temperature into the summer months. I have NO fans installed.