Dealer Prep

[PennBF]

Does every car dealer add "Dealer Prep" to the invoice? :popcorn:

[EdFNJ]

No but many do. It's like the $3-6000 they add to the sticker for pin stripes and "undercoating." First words to them would be remove it or I walk. MANY years ago cars needed "dealer prep" but now they wash them and that's enough.

Dealer Prep Fee
This is a fee, usually ranging between $100 and $400, that a dealer will try to charge for preparing the vehicle for sale. It's a ridiculous attempt at making extra profit because vehicle preparation is simply a part of doing business. Get the dealer to drop this fake fee before agreeing to purchase.

[dewilson58]

nope

[JohnN]

Dealer prep is pure profit for them.

[John_W]

Does every car dealer add "Dealer Prep" to the invoice? :popcorn:

You must of looked at a Jenkins dealership since they have many in the area. Two years ago when I was shopping for a new 2018 car, I went to Jenkins Hyundai of Leesburg and got their best price for a Hyundai Kona. It even had $500 veteran discount and they gave me $24,500 for my trade. They wanted $3,600 and my car for Limited model with turbo and leather, sunroof, everything but all wheel drive.

I then went to Hyundai of Central Florida in Clermont and looked at Kona's. They would only give me $24,000 for my trade. However, they only wanted $200 and my car for the same Limited model. They have no dealer fees, no prep fees and even the floors mats were included.

[retiredguy123]

The best way to buy a car is to only discuss one number with the dealer, the out-the-door price, which includes eveything right down to the trade-in, taxes, tags, and title. That way, who cares what the dealer charges for dealer prep or anything else? As soon as you engage in a discussion about any other numbers, you will lose money. But, you need to know what the out-the-door price should be by using a third party pricing guide, like kbb.com or edmunds.com.

[PennBF]

The reason I asked the question is that I went to a dealer in Leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When I looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for Dealer Prep. I said I would not pay for Dealer Prep as this was just "Fluff" and added Dealer Profit. The sales person responded with then I was not going to buy a car in Florida as every Dealer charged for Prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like I was being thrown out of the Dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.:ho:

[xkeowner]

I haven't trade cars for a while but the last two times I did I had dealers that added "administrative or office fees" on the contract. Since they had a dealership decal and license plate frame om the the car I demanded an advertising credit in the same amount. One agreed and one lost a sale.

[vintageogauge]

The best way to buy a car is to only discuss one number with the dealer, the out-the-door price, which includes eveything right down to the trade-in, taxes, tags, and title. That way, who cares what the dealer charges for dealer prep or anything else? As soon as you engage in a discussion about any other numbers, you will lose money. But, you need to know what the out-the-door price should be by using a third party pricing guide, like kbb.com or edmunds.com.

Amen, I hate the hassle. If I'm trading in I just tell them I'll give you my car and the clear title along with a check for X number of dollars for the new car, and then tell them they can write it up any way they choose as long as the end result is the amount on my check. Be fair with your offer though as they are in business to make a profit. If they added a bunch of other stuff to the car I don't even take that into consideration, I only work off of the true MSRP.

[manaboutown]

In my experience price depends a great deal on how in demand or scarce a particular model is. On a run of the mill car, SUV or pickup truck a deal can almost always be made at some dealership. That is not always the case on a rare or high demand vehicle.

[Pinball wizard]

The reason I asked the question is that I went to a dealer in Leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When I looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for Dealer Prep. I said I would not pay for Dealer Prep as this was just "Fluff" and added Dealer Profit. The sales person responded with then I was not going to buy a car in Florida as every Dealer charged for Prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like I was being thrown out of the Dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.:ho:

Couple of thoughts...

1. It's YOUR money to spend as you like.
2. He was rude. I would have responded "then I guess you don't want to sell a car today".

[VApeople]

The best way to buy a car is to only discuss one number with the dealer, the out-the-door price, which includes eveything right down to the trade-in, taxes, tags, and title.

If I'm trading in I just tell them I'll give you my car and the clear title along with a check for X number of dollars for the new car.

Yeah, that is exactly how we have done it since 1995.

We bought a Toyota RAV4 last year and traded in our 2005 Honda Accord. We offered to give them our Honda plus $25K for the new car and they accepted. We wrote them a check and drove the new car home.

The most important thing is to get a car that you truly want and will enjoy driving for several years, like our 2003 Acura RSX.

[VApeople]

he said thanks for coming in and good bye

Don't worry. I have been told that by several dealers when we lived in Fairfax County VA.

In Fairfax, there were a lot of dealers so if one didn't like our offer, we would simply go to another dealer and offer $100 more. Eventually we would find one to sell us a car.

Around here, there are fewer dealers so we tried to compute a price that had a better chance of being accepted.

[John_W]

Since 2012 I've bought 4 new cars and I've used this method each time. I go to autotrader.com and just above 'search' click on 'advanced search' and select however far you're willing to drive. I usually select 75 miles, the four purchases I made were in Winter Haven, Clermont, Leesburg and Sanford. This way your getting dealer prices from leesburg, Ocala, Orlando, Tampa/St. Pete and everywhere in between.

Select the brand, model, new or used, if used how many miles, transmission, the colors you prefer, engine size, and options like leather, etc. Then hit search and you'll see your choices with the prices. Generally a dealer will have an online salesman who photo will pop up and you can talk to him.

The first one I bought this way was a 2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo with automatic in October 2012 from Red Hoagland Hyundai in Winter Haven, about a 90 minute drive. The list price was $23,925. Next I go to Kelly Blue Book KBB.com and see how much I should pay. I then also enter my trade to see how much I should get.

Now armed with this info, I spoke to the online salesman on the website about the Veloster. He took the phone and walked out to the car and answered any questions I had. I told him I'll be there in less than 2 hours and to hold it, if possible.

When I got there, I took a test drive and then asked the salesman what was his best price, he said 23,000, I told him I wasn't paying more than $22,600 that was the KBB price. Then I asked about my car since the appraiser had driven it, and they said they would give me $16,000. I told them, I wanted $16,500 and we have a deal, five minutes later he said, you have a deal.

Autotrader Car Search (https://www.autotrader.com/)

Kelley Blue Book | New and Used Car Price Values, Expert Car Reviews (https://www.kbb.com/)

Here was the car, it was a great little car. I kept it 4-1/2 years and 30,000 miles. It was 201 HP Turbo, of which most Velosters on the road are not turbos, but the sluggish 138 hp engine. That's one reason I had to search, Jenkins of Ocala called a week after I bought the car to say they had a turbo in stock but wanted almost $25,000 for it.

The last car I bought was a 2018 Hyundai Kona, and after I found the car I wanted on autotrader.com, I then went to the dealer's website, Hyundai of Central Florida in Clermont. Their much more aggressive and list their best prices on their website with no dealer fees, no prep fees, no dealer accessories. I stopped at Jenkins in Leesburg, simply because they were on the way and wanted to see a Kona in person since they were new. While there I got their best price and went onto Clermont. The difference by driving to Clermont was $3400 cheaper. It's the out the door price that matters. Even though Jenkins offered $500 more for my trade and gave me a veterans discount, their price plus my trade-in was $3600. In Clermont their price with my trade was only $200 out of my pocket and since sales tax is calculated on the difference, that was much cheaper, only $14 for sales tax.

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/120574885_1752108114953713_1426551823825609935_o.j pg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=xCgJwN8uVUcAX9LWEao&_nc_ht=scontent-mia3-1.xx&oh=217df87333b0937c2f9aa4a0703a82b0&oe=5FE046DF

[UpNorth]

Years ago, I went shopping for a new car and knew exactly what I wanted. I typed out the description and made 4 copies with 4 envelopes. I went to 4 dealers and told the salesmen that I wanted him to go to the sales manger and give me their best price on the car. They were to write it down on the sheet and seal it in the envelope. They had one chance to make the sale, since I was going to 3 of their competitors and doing the same thing. After all 4 were done, I was going home to open the envelopes to find out the "winner". There was nearly $1000 difference between the lowest and highest bidders. The lowest bidder was obviously the one I bought from. With this method, you are in charge of the price you will pay, and the dealer can't play games.

[retiredguy123]

Years ago, I went shopping for a new car and knew exactly what I wanted. I typed out the description and made 4 copies with 4 envelopes. I went to 4 dealers and told the salesmen that I wanted him to go to the sales manger and give me their best price on the car. They were to write it down on the sheet and seal it in the envelope. They had one chance to make the sale, since I was going to 3 of their competitors and doing the same thing. After all 4 were done, I was going home to open the envelopes to find out the "winner". There was nearly $1000 difference between the lowest and highest bidders. The lowest bidder was obviously the one I bought from. With this method, you are in charge of the price you will pay, and the dealer can't play games.
Interesting, but my guess is that none of the 4 prices was their lowest price, especially since there was only $1,000 difference. Were the prices an out-the-door price, including trade-in? If not, you were not comparing apples to apples. I think that, typically, for an average car, there is about a $2,500 to $3,500 difference between what a dealer wants to sell a car for a what he is willing to sell it for.

[Art cov]

Another true story! A dealer I was well acquainted with was needing to sell so many more units to win a free week vacation to a super bowl location. A big football fan that told his salesmen to sell. End of the year deals were amazing and he didn’t care but was winning that trip! His head salesman told me what the owner was doing to win the trip. End of quarter and end of year deals can be amazing. Knowing people in the car industry can be a great benefit. There are little ways to save $500 here and $750 there to bring the bottom line down from the lowest price. Trade ins can be rough unless you have the model they are desperate for. When the dealers are in for kickbacks you will win. If you bought a new vehicle that’s hot on the market 5 years later and it’s in pristine condition with low miles, you can at times nearly get your money back. Used cars have been terribly high and dealers have been paying high for those creamy high demand vehicles. DONT GET RIPPED OFF!

[Fredman]

When I buy a car I go on the internet and search dealers within a 100 mile radius and ask them for their best price. The car I wanted had a msrp of 37 k. The best price I got was 100 miles away they bid 32k. It was 2 days before the end of the month. I went to a near by dealer showed them the quote and said I was either going to buy it from them or drive the 100 miles. They accepted the deal but wanted to close the next day because it was the last day of the month. I have done this more than once and have always been successful.

[UpNorth]

Interesting, but my guess is that none of the 4 prices was their lowest price, especially since there was only $1,000 difference. Were the prices an out-the-door price, including trade-in? If not, you were not comparing apples to apples. I think that, typically, for an average car, there is about a $2,500 to $3,500 difference between what a dealer wants to sell a car for a what he is willing to sell it for.

Cash buy with no trade-in, out-the-door price. They had one chance to make the sale, and did not know what the other dealers would quote. If they wanted the sale, they had better sharpen their pencils and quote as low as possible on their first and only shot. Lowest bidder wins.

[John_W]

Cash buy with no trade-in, out-the-door price. They had one chance to make the sale, and did not know what the other dealers would quote. If they wanted the sale, they had better sharpen their pencils and quote as low as possible on their first and only shot. Lowest bidder wins.

Save your stamp, you can use email. That's how I knew what salesman at Hyundai of Central Florida (Clermont) was getting my business. I sent an email in the blind to their website and he responded within an hour. Over the next week I sent at least 5 more emails about their cars, my trade, prices, available colors, and he answered everyone within a couple of hours. No other salesman at that dealer did.

[La lamy]

Yeah, that is exactly how we have done it since 1995.

We bought a Toyota RAV4 last year and traded in our 2005 Honda Accord. We offered to give them our Honda plus $25K for the new car and they accepted. We wrote them a check and drove the new car home.

The most important thing is to get a car that you truly want and will enjoy driving for several years, like our 2003 Acura RSX.

Off topic but I LOVE my RSX. I'm going to baby it until it's impossible to run it. They don't make affordable 2 door sport cars with stick transmission anymore.

[Worldseries27]

the reason i asked the question is that i went to a dealer in leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When i looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for dealer prep. I said i would not pay for dealer prep as this was just "fluff" and added dealer profit. The sales person responded with then i was not going to buy a car in florida as every dealer charged for prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like i was being thrown out of the dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.:ho:
best move you made. You asked a question and received very little respect because the sp knew you wouldn't purchase.

[Northerner52]

Worse than dealer prep is the sticker addendum. Doc fees are for the paperwork. All extra profit that most pay because they don't know how to say no

[Cheapbas]

I was told by one of the local dealers there was a mandatory fee in Florida of $500 and it was non negotiable. I went to another dealer and they voluntarily waived it.

[donassaid]

That is exactly what we got dealing with Jenkins Nissan in Leesburg. Best experience buying a car ever.

[jacksonbrown]

I've been buying new and used cars for 50+ years, including one within the past six months.

The ONLY WAY that I will buy a new car is to use an on-line service like

TrueCar (https://www.truecar.com/military/)

Living in a household with a retired Vet, the link includes a "military discount"; yet, I have been told that non-military folks can use TrueCar and receive similar benefits.

Their advantage?

You describe the desired make, model and options.

Then TrueCar sends notifications to a number of dealers within your specified mileage radius.

The dealers will bid on your business.

TrueCar also allows you to designate your trade-in; make, model, options, mileage and condition.

We were successful in buying our new SUV and receive the trade-in for our used vehicle as shown by TrueCar.

The process went smoothly, although we had to drive one hour to visit the dealer that "won" our business.

There was NO hard sell and NO nitrogen in our tires (but that's another story!)

[Bridget Staunton]

Buy all my cars thru Costco, no hassle one price

[toeser]

Does every car dealer add "Dealer Prep" to the invoice? :popcorn:

Earlier this year we wanted to buy a new SUV. The dealers in this area, for the car we wanted, added an extra $3,000 or so for "market adjustment." We thought up yours and ended up buying our new car in Wisconsin at a discount to sticker price without this ridiculous add on. I guess I will never be buying a new car in Florida.

[J1ceasar]

First remember your feet are your most powerful shopping tool if you don't like what they say just say thank you turn around and walk right out the door. Secondly research is the key to getting a fair deal. If you know what you want there are several different sites that will tell you roughly what the current discounts are going to be and the rebates. Both for your new car and what the wholesale rate is going on your old car be fair and realize your old car will have a trade in of 3 to $5,000 less than what the retail will be on your car in other words if you trade in a car don't expect to get its true value because they have to make money on the car thirdly if you know these numbers understand the only thing you're going to have to pay is the cost of the car the sales tax and several hundred dollars for registering the car which the auto dealership will do for you . This is called out of door price if you're going to finance the car then call several Banks and simply get their current rates. Some dealers will also try to make money on the loan and if you're armed with the current rates just tell them these are the rates I've gotten please beat it. Lastly if you have test driven the car. It's simple to email or phone three dealerships with car models you want and ask them for an out-the-door price over the phone or email some do and some don't especially with covered it's understandable today. Also as you go through the websites you will note several car dealers Bradley display that they will not add any up charges or dealer fees. The bigger dealers like CarMax or carvana have pretty firm prices on used cars. I have myself have used carvana and have saved about $2,000 per car compared to the dealerships. In fact carvana sent me a refund check of several hundred dollars afterwards due to a lower cost of State fees. Good luck and enjoy shopping for a car it's really like a caveman going out for a hunt

[J1ceasar]

P.s. yes if you are a woman I still feel sorry for you shopping for a car please make sure you take a man because there are some dealerships still working like it's 1950

[TNLAKEPANDA]

Jenkins will try to rip you off if they can. Be very careful dealing with them. I am only familiar with the Leesburg Jenkins Honda but have to assume that it is there business model! I think that I will go to Clermont for my Hyundai purchase!

[TNLAKEPANDA]

Buy all my cars thru Costco, no hassle one price

I bought one car via Costco but often wonder if you are really getting the best price?

[MacScuba]

When I worked at Ford, we called it PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection). It included a long list of things such as removing shipping films and protective covers, a quick road test, verifying functions of all the major systems, leak checks, etc. We (FORD) paid the dealer to do this. If they charge you, that would be double dipping for the same thing. If you really mean a “document prep” or some other charge for work done in the dealership back office, then that would be fair charge. Someone has to get paid to do this work, and they can either list the charge separately, or bury it somewhere, but you’ll pay for it.

[b0bd0herty]

Back when the "new" Thunderbirds came out I went to a Ford dealer in Colorado Springs. On the sticker in the window was: "ADP - $10,000. I asked the salesman what that was and he said (quite honestly & surprised me) Additional Dealer Profit.

They will get money any way possible.

[Art cov]

I bought one car via Costco but often wonder if you are really getting the best price?

Your not! Might be getting an ok deal but not the very best! Good, better and best!

[Pedrocarrasco01@yahoo.com]

The best way to buy a car is to only discuss one number with the dealer, the out-the-door price, which includes eveything right down to the trade-in, taxes, tags, and title. That way, who cares what the dealer charges for dealer prep or anything else? As soon as you engage in a discussion about any other numbers, you will lose money. But, you need to know what the out-the-door price should be by using a third party pricing guide, like kbb.com or edmunds.com.

Dealers also make a lot of money on the financing, when you get to the finance office to complete the deal and after all of the “out the door price” is mentioned, you will be asked how would you want to pay and offer several options that the dealer will make money on financing by a “dealer approved lender will give them extra money, either pay with a letter from your bank or like we did with a check, the last one, I put the entire amount on my credit card, the dealer thought that I was crazy since the credit cards charge outrageous interest, then I explained that I was getting 2% back on the purchase, he stated it will never go through, I loved to see his expression when it was approved, he could not believe it, and yes I paid it within 30 days, so I paid zero interest and got another $600 back from them. Life is GREAT mostly when you figure it out!!!!

[kappy]

I just leased a Hyundai Sonata from Hyundai of Central Florida and saved more than $1000. I had previously leased a 2018 and a 2019 from Jenkins in Ocala on very reasonable terms. (Jenkins in Leesburg wouldn’t even come close to the Jenkins of Ocala rate.). Since my 2018 lease was coming due, I returned to Jenkins in Ocala expecting to get the same good rate I had gotten twice before. Boy did I get a surprise. They gave me a quote that was almost $4000 above the Hyundai of Central Florida rate. I left the dealership and as soon as I arrived home, I received an email telling me I could have the vehicle at $3000 less than the original quote. That would have still been $1000 more than the same vehicle that I leased in Clermont.

Hyundai of Central Florida does not charge a dealers fee. Almost every other Florida dealership charges a dealers fee of anywhere from $499 to $1099. This fee is pure profit for the dealership. When I moved to Florida from New Jersey seven years ago and looked into these dealer fees, I asked why they charge this extra fee. The answer seemed to be, “because they can.” When I leased the 2018 Sonata from Jenkins in Ocala, I asked why the Ocala dealership can give me a better price than the Leesburg dealership. I was told that since many of the customers in Leesburg are Villagers and elderly, they don’t shop around.

[chrissy2231]

Not Subaru in Orlando

[PennBF]

This is a good demonstration of the value of Talk Of The Villages (TOTV)! Some of
the responses were really helpful and informative regarding purchasing in Florida
and being a Villager! I did walk out on the Dealer and if they call regarding a follow up I would be frank and honest as to why I am no longer interested in doing business with them. I let my guard down on this one. This was another case of not negotiating with the person who makes the decision! It's called "Ghost" negotiations where the real decision maker is invisible, (e.g. Salesperson="I have to check with the Manager,etc"). A good process to follow when this is thrown at you is to have your own "Ghost" check point. As I said I screwed up in a couple of ways on this one and after buying cars for the last 60+ years you would think I would know better. :popcorn:

[retiredguy123]

Dealers also make a lot of money on the financing, when you get to the finance office to complete the deal and after all of the “out the door price” is mentioned, you will be asked how would you want to pay and offer several options that the dealer will make money on financing by a “dealer approved lender will give them extra money, either pay with a letter from your bank or like we did with a check, the last one, I put the entire amount on my credit card, the dealer thought that I was crazy since the credit cards charge outrageous interest, then I explained that I was getting 2% back on the purchase, he stated it will never go through, I loved to see his expression when it was approved, he could not believe it, and yes I paid it within 30 days, so I paid zero interest and got another $600 back from them. Life is GREAT mostly when you figure it out!!!!
Most dealers will not accept a credit card to purchase a car.

[retiredguy123]

Your not! Might be getting an ok deal but not the very best! Good, better and best!
I agree. A buying service is convenient and less stressful, but it is not the way to get the best price on a car. Also, you need to make sure that the dealer actually has the exact car that he has quoted to you before you go to the dealership. Ask for the VIN number and the dealer's stock number. Some dealers will lure you to their dealership and then try to sell you another car. Or worse, they will ask for a deposit so they can have the car you want delivered to the dealership. If you ever pay a deposit, make sure you read the paper you sign very carefully because it will often allow the dealer to substitute a similar car. And you will never get the deposit back, even if it is on a credit card.

[KRM0614]

No but many do. It's like the $3-6000 they add to the sticker for pin stripes and "undercoating." First words to them would be remove it or I walk. MANY years ago cars needed "dealer prep" but now they wash them and that's enough.

Dealer Prep Fee
This is a fee, usually ranging between $100 and $400, that a dealer will try to charge for preparing the vehicle for sale. It's a ridiculous attempt at making extra profit because vehicle preparation is simply a part of doing business. Get the dealer to drop this fake fee before agreeing to purchase.
Anyone who pays these phony fees deserve it ! I’m from the Detroit area and I’ve not seen that since I was a kid ! Florida has so many arcane practices ! The profit on used and new vehicles is high ! I also worked at a dealership during a recession to make money after auto sales car school !

Don’t pay this crap go up north where they will treat you the way you deserve and save a few extra thousand ! Disgusting and immoral !

[KRM0614]

The reason I asked the question is that I went to a dealer in Leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When I looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for Dealer Prep. I said I would not pay for Dealer Prep as this was just "Fluff" and added Dealer Profit. The sales person responded with then I was not going to buy a car in Florida as every Dealer charged for Prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like I was being thrown out of the Dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.:ho:
I’m amazed at the arrogance in Florida ! These salespeople and dealership needs to be called out !
I’m amazed at all the creative ways they try to extract your hard earned savings from the seniors here ! It’s disgusting ! They treat those folks with disgust and greed

[KRM0614]

Amen, I hate the hassle. If I'm trading in I just tell them I'll give you my car and the clear title along with a check for X number of dollars for the new car, and then tell them they can write it up any way they choose as long as the end result is the amount on my check. Be fair with your offer though as they are in business to make a profit. If they added a bunch of other stuff to the car I don't even take that into consideration, I only work off of the true MSRP.
MSRP is a number as the price of the car goes up you can deduct between 8-12% off that number ! The car makers provide extra profits ! Never ever ever get an extended warranty ! Even if something breaks down it never costs what they charge

[zendog3]

Some car dealers post the price on the window. Others expect you to haggle. Florida seems to be one of these places where haggling is expected. (Don't believe you can haggle better than the dealer. They are pros at it and you are an amateur.) I believe the best way to get a fair price without the hassle of haggling is to do everything on the internet. Do the reviews and all that business first. Know the car you want. You might even go to the lot and do a test drive. But DON'T take their IF I CAN, WILL YOU... deal. Don't believe them when they tell you, you can only get this great price if you buy before you leave.

Then go home and call one or two dealers. Tell them what you want and ask them the price. They won't want to name a price, but if you tell them you are talking to another dealer and want the price before you come in, they willl name their best fair price. Then go in and don't leave paying more than the internet price you got on the phone.

[retiredguy123]

Some car dealers post the price on the window. Others expect you to haggle. Florida seems to be one of these places where haggling is expected. (Don't believe you can haggle better than the dealer. They are pros at it and you are an amateur.) I believe the best way to get a fair price without the hassle of haggling is to do everything on the internet. Do the reviews and all that business first. Know the car you want. You might even go to the lot and do a test drive. But DON'T take their IF I CAN, WILL YOU... deal. Don't believe them when they tell you, you can only get this great price if you buy before you leave.

Then go home and call one or two dealers. Tell them what you want and ask them the price. They won't want to name a price, but if you tell them you are talking to another dealer and want the price before you come in, they willl name their best fair price. Then go in and don't leave paying more than the internet price you got on the phone.
I don't believe you will ever get a dealer to tell you their best price on the phone or on the internet. You need to calculate the price using a third party estimation, present it to the dealer as an out-the-door, "take it or leave it" offer, and be prepared to leave if they don't accept your offer. Even if you leave, they will probably call you back and accept it. But, a dealer will never present their lowest price to you. You need to present it to them.

[VApeople]

I screwed up in a couple of ways on this one and after buying cars for the last 60+ years you would think I would know better.

Hey, don't feel bad.

The dealers do this every day but we are amateurs who buy a car once every few years. They know all our tricks.

[LianneMigiano]

We leased our 2013 Hyundai Accent in 2012 and were charged $699. dealer fee on our printed out cost sheet. We loved the car so much that at the end of the lease we decided to buy it. They charged us the same dealer fee ALL OVER AGAIN!!!! P.S. We still have the car because we still love it.

[Art cov]

I don't believe you will ever get a dealer to tell you their best price on the phone or on the internet. You need to calculate the price using a third party estimation, present it to the dealer as an out-the-door, "take it or leave it" offer, and be prepared to leave if they don't accept your offer. Even if you leave, they will probably call you back and accept it. But, a dealer will never present their lowest price to you. You need to present it to them.
Yes sir! This was my experience, I done the 3 car lot thing, got all out the door prices. They all said absolutely this is the bottom line! I worked at it hard. Then got the phone calls from each one and the amounts got lower. As they knew I was buying. After all the haggling ( I found this to be fun) finally I went to the lowest bid after all the talk. Got cash and went straight to the General managers office and put $ 40,000 cash on his desk. He didn’t know who I was or what this was about. I told him my story and told him the salesmen came up with a price of 41500 out the door. After a few days of haggling with 3 lots involved in my purchase. 4 men standing around me at this time. I then said, are you taking that for that truck or are you making me walk? He said to one of the guys “ get his paperwork and process it through! In an hour I drove away in a new crew cab 4x4. You got to have guts to win! It took 4 days but BINGO!!! Ended up being $3000 cheaper then the other 2 lowest prices. This I’m sure wouldn’t work on a Prius or little car on that amount but it worked on a big truck. I’m now ready to do it again. Last week of December is a good time

[Kenswing]

Yes sir! This was my experience, I done the 3 car lot thing, got all out the door prices. They all said absolutely this is the bottom line! I worked at it hard. Then got the phone calls from each one and the amounts got lower. As they knew I was buying. After all the haggling ( I found this to be fun) finally I went to the lowest bid after all the talk. Got cash and went straight to the General managers office and put $ 40,000 cash on his desk. He didn’t know who I was or what this was about. I told him my story and told him the salesmen came up with a price of 41500 out the door. After a few days of haggling with 3 lots involved in my purchase. 4 men standing around me at this time. I then said, are you taking that for that truck or are you making me walk? He said to one of the guys “ get his paperwork and process it through! In an hour I drove away in a new crew cab 4x4. You got to have guts to win! It took 4 days but BINGO!!! Ended up being $3000 cheaper then the other 2 lowest prices. This I’m sure wouldn’t work on a Prius or little car on that amount but it worked on a big truck. I’m now ready to do it again. Last week of December is a good time
How do you withdraw or present $40,000 cash without the Feds crawling all over you?

[jchase]

Not true retired guy, I bought a new Dodge Challenger over the Internet/phone from Greenway Dodge in Orlando. When I got there the priced never changed. $9,000 off sticker. Didn’t believe it either until the deal was done. Great people to deal with.

[retiredguy123]

How do you withdraw or present $40,000 cash without the Feds crawling all over you?
Any transaction of $10,000 or more must be reported to the IRS. But, as long as it is legal money, you shouldn't have a problem.

[Art cov]

How do you withdraw or present $40,000 cash without the Feds crawling all over you?

I had sold a car the week before with pictures of signed title and bill of sale. The general manager counted the money right there. No problem n no questions asked. Lo it wasn’t in the freezer! If anyone can, go through the process of selling your vehicle. It’s hard sometimes to deal with but you can save thousands. That’s where dealerships make money! Used cars and the garage is what keeps them in business. Unless people don’t know the fun of haggling

[retiredguy123]

Not true retired guy, I bought a new Dodge Challenger over the Internet/phone from Greenway Dodge in Orlando. When I got there the priced never changed. $9,000 off sticker. Didn’t believe it either until the deal was done. Great people to deal with.
I am not saying that they won't honor the price they give you on the phone. But, I think you can get the best price by presenting an offer to the dealer in person and making them believe that, if they don't accept your offer, they cannot sell you the car. When I make an offer, I am very polite, I give them 15 minutes, I refuse to sit in their office, and they know that, if they don't accept the offer, I will be gone. It's not easy for most people to do, but it has worked for me several times.

[Andyb]

Dealer prep is just another word for more profit

[txfan]

I start at invoice - not MSRP - and work from there. Any “add ons” come off. Then I ask for the “hold back” number. Every car has it. I offer to split it. That’s where they make their profit.

If both sides are happy at that point, we’ll make the deal.

Obviously timing is a huge motivator with dealers, so almost never buy a car when you need one. You must be willing to walk away, or pay more.

I once told a sales rep, “If you sell me a car, you will have earned whatever they pay you.” When I drove out in the truck, all he said was, “you were right.”

[PennBF]

Some thing. I wanted to add to this stream of great comments. I agree with the point to not buy extended warranties. Without going into detail I have significant experience in that area and in most cases the profit is about 90% when you purchase it. There are a couple of cases where it may be a good idea but car's and TV's are usually not one of them. They already have at least a year or more from the Manufacturer and how many TV's have gone bust in the first year? But they still carry a Manufacturer's Warranty for that period. In some cases the employee who is able to sell the extended warranty receives either a big thanks or allegedly a reward? :popcorn:

[dewilson58]

How do you withdraw or present $40,000 cash without the Feds crawling all over you?
$40k cash is a bigger pain for the dealer than a $40k cashier's check.

Throwing cash on a desk is not impressive.
:popcorn:

[retiredguy123]

$40k cash is a bigger pain for the dealer than a $40k cashier's check.

Throwing cash on a desk is not impressive.
:popcorn:
Only if the dealer follows the law. A few months ago, a friend was able to buy an expensive ring from a "reputable" Villages jeweler at a huge discount, but only if he paid in cash. I was very surprised by that.

[Stu from NYC]

Only if the dealer follows the law. A few months ago, a friend was able to buy an expensive ring from a "reputable" Villages jeweler at a huge discount, but only if he paid in cash. I was very surprised by that.

Some people would rather not pay taxes

[Art cov]

$40k cash is a bigger pain for the dealer than a $40k cashier's check.

Throwing cash on a desk is not impressive.
:popcorn:

No it’s not but got the deal done! In some places cash is still king. A lot of times in small purchases the merchants have to pay between 2.5 and 3.5 percent when using a card. They don’t like that but people buy more with plastic so businesses gladly take the cards. It hurts a little more to get a few 100’s out and give to the cashier. Inserting or sliding a card is much easier. Sometimes a person doesn’t get a deal with cash but other times it works great. Nothing evil about it! Still pay taxes. In this day and age I have met at the bank with an individual buying my car for added protection and in case their was any funny money. Got to be careful!

[Fredman]

Dealers don’t care if u pay cash. They prefer u finance thru them. They are going to get their money regardless of how u pay

[CoachKandSportsguy]

The best way to buy a car is to only discuss one number with the dealer, the out-the-door price, which includes eveything right down to the trade-in, taxes, tags, and title. That way, who cares what the dealer charges for dealer prep or anything else?

Just used that strategy this past weekend, and the dealer agreed. We wanted the used truck as it had exactly for what we were looking and hadn't seen in 6 months, repossessed and low mileage, towing packages, etc.

So just discussing one number, trade in at X value, and out the door price for the truck. Made the whole discussion easy.

Great advice!

coachk and sportsguy

[FenneyGuy]

Off topic but I LOVE my RSX. I'm going to baby it until it's impossible to run it. They don't make affordable 2 door sport cars with stick transmission anymore.

I'll be off topic too and say that I love my 6-speed manual trans Bullitt Mustang.

[John_W]

I'll be off topic too and say that I love my 6-speed manual trans Bullitt Mustang.

Is yours green or black? You need to post photos. I have friend in Jacksonville that has a green one, he loves it.

[FenneyGuy]

Is yours green or black? You need to post photos. I have friend in Jacksonville that has a green one, he loves it.

Mine is dark highland Green metallic. It is a stunning color on a fantastic car.

[wisbad1]

The reason I asked the question is that I went to a dealer in Leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When I looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for Dealer Prep. I said I would not pay for Dealer Prep as this was just "Fluff" and added Dealer Profit. The sales person responded with then I was not going to buy a car in Florida as every Dealer charged for Prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like I was being thrown out of the Dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.:ho:
Honda dealership did same thing. We left and went to Headquarters Honda and got what we expected, service and courteous staff. Got scammed on service for my old pilot by them(Jenkins).

[TomW]

Of all the things I've encountered after moving to Florida several years ago, buying a vehicle is the most aggravating. At Bill Bryan Kia in Leesburg, they had a bumper (additional) sticker for $4,999 for the window tint, pinstripe package. I don't know how one begins a serious business transaction in the face of such BS. Jenkins Automotive Group seems to now own many of the dealerships, repair shops and body shops in the area. I encountered very high pressure sales tactics in two of their stores. I am a previous customer of Phillips' dealerships and I have nothing good to say about them to the extent I think Crimes against Seniors should take a look at their treatment of older buyers. So what to do? I like the suggestion of an out-the-door price and I'll take it or I'll leave. It not a problem with understanding how car dealerships work, but more to the point I don't have the patience for all games they play to try to take your money at every turn. All the money on the table is mine and they want more of it than their product and services entitle them to.

[VApeople]

Of all the things I've encountered after moving to Florida several years ago, buying a vehicle is the most aggravating. At Bill Bryan Kia in Leesburg, they had a bumper (additional) sticker for $4,999 for the window tint, pinstripe package. I don't know how one begins a serious business transaction in the face of such BS. Jenkins Automotive Group seems to now own many of the dealerships, repair shops and body shops in the area. I encountered very high pressure sales tactics in two of their stores. I am a previous customer of Phillips' dealerships and I have nothing good to say about them to the extent I think Crimes against Seniors should take a look at their treatment of older buyers. So what to do? I like the suggestion of an out-the-door price and I'll take it or I'll leave. It not a problem with understanding how car dealerships work, but more to the point I don't have the patience for all games they play to try to take your money at every turn. All the money on the table is mine and they want more of it than their product and services entitle them to.

So what's your point?

It appears you do not like the experience of buying a car. Well, the dealers ain't gonna change their practices. You either find a way to make buying a car a very enjoyable experience or you keep doing the same thing and complaining about it. Your choice.

[Stu from NYC]

So what's your point?

It appears you do not like the experience of buying a car. Well, the dealers ain't gonna change their practices. You either find a way to make buying a car a very enjoyable experience or you keep doing the same thing and complaining about it. Your choice.

Dealers have made the experience a negative for many people.

Thinking will try a buying service when we buy a new one early next year and see how that works.

[VApeople]

Thinking will try a buying service when we buy a new one early next year and see how that works.

Or you can read what I and others have posted about our very enjoyable car buying experiences and then decide what works best for you.

[vintageogauge]

Only if the dealer follows the law. A few months ago, a friend was able to buy an expensive ring from a "reputable" Villages jeweler at a huge discount, but only if he paid in cash. I was very surprised by that.

He can do that with jewelry, put it in his pocket and not put it through the books therefore cheating on his profit tax. However that is not the case with a titled vehicle from a dealer, there is a paper trail that cannot be buried.

[Fredman]

In PA dealers charge a service fee that is set by the state which I believe is around $300

[retiredguy123]

In PA dealers charge a service fee that is set by the state which I believe is around $300
Not true. PA law sets a "maximum" fee that dealers can charge. The fee is not mandatory and is negotiable and it can be zero. It think one reason for setting a maximum fee is that the fee is not taxable.

[PennBF]

By being a "wise guy" when trying to sell me a car they not only lost a customer but a walking advertisement for why not to buy at this dealer. I was ready to write a check for thousands of dollars, but instead decided my current car is great and
decided it was better than the ones on their lot! It was a wake up call which I am thankful for. I am sure my actions will have little effect on their P&L but it gives me some peace of mind. :a040:

[NoMo50]

The reason I asked the question is that I went to a dealer in Leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When I looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for Dealer Prep. I said I would not pay for Dealer Prep as this was just "Fluff" and added Dealer Profit. The sales person responded with then I was not going to buy a car in Florida as every Dealer charged for Prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like I was being thrown out of the Dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.:ho:

I have bought many new cars in my 6+ decades on this planet, in several states. Never once have I paid a "dealer prep" fee. Nor have I ever paid the similarly dubious "document fee." Both are nothing more than ADM (additional dealer markup). Yes...I have walked away from deals when the dealer would not budge. Fine with me, as I always found another dealer who played in the real world. Dealer prep is nothing more than making the vehicle ready to transfer to the new owner, and that is something the dealer is contractually bound to do by the affiliated manufacturer. The document fee is also a ruse, where dealers try to charge you an extra couple hundred bucks to prepare the sale documents for you. I say Bullfeathers! Car dealers are required by state law in every state I am familiar with to provide the new owner with any and all documents required by the state to title and register the vehicle. The sad thing is that many people simply shrug their shoulders and pay these fees. Stand your ground, and walk away if necessary. Think about it...what you needlessly give the dealer for these fees would likely buy you nearly a year's worth of gasoline!

[chrissy2231]

Orlando Subaru doesn't charge it.

[B-flat]

I'm late to the discussion but there's a ton of You Tube Videos about car buying and extra fees. Never tell them you are paying cash and watch out for the finance departments they are big profit centers for car dealers. Also you may want to check out "FightChance" a web site by James Bragg who offers a little different approach to new car buying.

Fighting Chance: Your Customized Solution to Getting the Best Car Deal (https://fightingchance.com)

[B-flat]

Yes sir! This was my experience, I done the 3 car lot thing, got all out the door prices. They all said absolutely this is the bottom line! I worked at it hard. Then got the phone calls from each one and the amounts got lower. As they knew I was buying. After all the haggling ( I found this to be fun) finally I went to the lowest bid after all the talk. Got cash and went straight to the General managers office and put $ 40,000 cash on his desk. He didn’t know who I was or what this was about. I told him my story and told him the salesmen came up with a price of 41500 out the door. After a few days of haggling with 3 lots involved in my purchase. 4 men standing around me at this time. I then said, are you taking that for that truck or are you making me walk? He said to one of the guys “ get his paperwork and process it through! In an hour I drove away in a new crew cab 4x4. You got to have guts to win! It took 4 days but BINGO!!! Ended up being $3000 cheaper then the other 2 lowest prices. This I’m sure wouldn’t work on a Prius or little car on that amount but it worked on a big truck. I’m now ready to do it again. Last week of December is a good time

Love your style! Great lesson!

[B-flat]

Originally Posted by PennBF View Post
The reason I asked the question is that I went to a dealer in Leesburg and was looking for a price on a new car. When I looked at the price list they had a line item of about $800 for Dealer Prep. I said I would not pay for Dealer Prep as this was just "Fluff" and added Dealer Profit. The sales person responded with then I was not going to buy a car in Florida as every Dealer charged for Prep! That was as far as we got when he said thanks for coming in and good bye. I felt like I was being thrown out of the Dealer ship for challenging the line item rather than a cordial thanks for stopping in. We live and learn.
".

There's another approach tell them you'll pay the prep fees but they need to come off the the actual price your quoted on the car. In other words if the car price is $35,000 and they want to charge you $1000 for various prep fees etc. tell them you'll buy for $34,000. The best advice is to walk if they won't meet your price.

[schwarz]

Just bought our new Tucson there. Great dealership...goodby Hyundi of Ocala and their $999 dealer fee