Learning About My Irrigation System

[Laker14]

This is the first Spring in the new house. Decent size corner lot, and some areas are lush and green, others dry as a bone. Put rain gauges out, and, no surprise, the dry areas aren't getting any water compared to the green areas. From what I can tell, the dry areas are getting overshot by the stream.
I know I can reduce the stream by using the adjustment screw, BUT, if the wrong nozzle is being used to begin with, and you rely too much on the adjustment screw you just wind up with a ridiculous amount of water depositing right at the sprinkler head. It is better to have the appropriate nozzle for the distance you want to shoot, and make minor adjustments with the screw.
So, here's my problem: Most of my distances are in the 16-18 foot range, but when I look at the Hunter Nozzle Selection Chart, the minimum I can find is 22', using the low angle (gray) #4 nozzle, and the chart assumes a PSI of 30...of course, variations in PSI create variations in the distance of the throw.

I am hoping others out there who like to figure this stuff out for themselves, rather than "call the guy", can help me based upon their experiences with TV irrigation, and Hunter equipment.
I'm OK with trial and error, but would like a suggestion for where to start.

thanks in advance.

[Bogie Shooter]

that may help.

Can someone please explain lawn watering and irrigation system. - Talk of The Villages Florida

Patio Villa IrragationWater - Talk of The Villages Florida

Sprinkler head problem - Talk of The Villages Florida

Sprinkler system timing and schedule - Talk of The Villages Florida

[Bogie Shooter]

Do a search on here....lot of earlier threads on this topic.

[bagboy]

Personally, I use Rainbird irrigation heads. You can buy VAN nozzles (adjustable to 330 degree radius) in 4,6,8,10,12,15, and 18' spray distances. Order directly from Rainbird website, price is better than hardware stores, and shipping is reasonable.

[Laker14]

I've done a ton of searches and while there are many threads on irrigation, I haven't found any informations specific to my question, which is regarding changing out the nozzles, and finding the appropriate nozzle (for Hunter heads)for the distance I want to shoot, and the available water pressure.

I figure someone out there in TOTV land has tackled this before me.

[bagboy]

I've done a ton of searches and while there are many threads on irrigation, I haven't found any informations specific to my question, which is regarding changing out the nozzles, and finding the appropriate nozzle (for Hunter heads)for the distance I want to shoot, and the available water pressure.

I figure someone out there in TOTV land has tackled this before me.

You can go through your system, a zone at a time. Look at each irrigation head as its spraying, determine where the spray needs to go, and measure the distance that each one needs to spray.
Do this with every head, every zone. Make a list, order Rainbird spray heads from their website. You do Not need to use Hunter heads.
I will add, if you have Hunter rotor heads, or a gear drive head, my advice probably won't work.

[Laker14]

You can go through your system, a zone at a time. Look at each irrigation head as its spraying, determine where the spray needs to go, and measure the distance that each one needs to spray.
Do this with every head, every zone. Make a list, order Rainbird spray heads from their website. You do Not need to use Hunter heads.
I will add, if you have Hunter rotor heads, or a gear drive head, my advice probably won't work.

Thanks, and I have done the plotting and the measuring, but Hunter rotor heads is what I've got.
But I think you could help me with one question I have. When you bought your Rainbird heads, did they shoot pretty close to the distance they were supposed to shoot? If so, that at least tells me that the PSI of our irrigation system is within the range that is expected by the manufacturer.

[bagboy]

Thanks, and I have done the plotting and the measuring, but Hunter rotor heads is what I've got.
But I think you could help me with one question I have. When you bought your Rainbird heads, did they shoot pretty close to the distance they were supposed to shoot? If so, that at least tells me that the PSI of our irrigation system is within the range that is expected by the manufacturer.

They are usually pretty close. Good Luck! Sorry I couldn't have been more helpful.

[Laker14]

They are usually pretty close. Good Luck! Sorry I couldn't have been more helpful.

I appreciate your input. And at least you didn't say "just call the guy".:icon_wink:

[Pinball wizard]

This is the first Spring in the new house. Decent size corner lot, and some areas are lush and green, others dry as a bone. Put rain gauges out, and, no surprise, the dry areas aren't getting any water compared to the green areas. From what I can tell, the dry areas are getting overshot by the stream.
I know I can reduce the stream by using the adjustment screw, BUT, if the wrong nozzle is being used to begin with, and you rely too much on the adjustment screw you just wind up with a ridiculous amount of water depositing right at the sprinkler head. It is better to have the appropriate nozzle for the distance you want to shoot, and make minor adjustments with the screw.
So, here's my problem: Most of my distances are in the 16-18 foot range, but when I look at the Hunter Nozzle Selection Chart, the minimum I can find is 22', using the low angle (gray) #4 nozzle, and the chart assumes a PSI of 30...of course, variations in PSI create variations in the distance of the throw.

I am hoping others out there who like to figure this stuff out for themselves, rather than "call the guy", can help me based upon their experiences with TV irrigation, and Hunter equipment.
I'm OK with trial and error, but would like a suggestion for where to start.

thanks in advance.

ACE on 301 has a good selection of Hunter heads rated for different distances. Also, make sure you replace your heads with the same 'flow' Don't mix hi flow with low flow (which is probably what you have).

[tjlee500]

Central Pro in Leesburg has all you need. Landscaping people go to them. Goand ask:
Florida's source for Pumps, Irrigation & Lighting Supplies :: 9 locations :: 30,000 Products (https://centralpro.net/)

[Hiltongrizz11]

You can go through your system, a zone at a time. Look at each irrigation head as its spraying, determine where the spray needs to go, and measure the distance that each one needs to spray.
Do this with every head, every zone. Make a list, order Rainbird spray heads from their website. You do Not need to use Hunter heads.
I will add, if you have Hunter rotor heads, or a gear drive head, my advice probably won't work.

Sad that you gave this person your sales pitch for your personal preference rather than addressing the very specific and clear question.

[Rzepecki]

Sad that you gave this person your sales pitch for your personal preference rather than addressing the very specific and clear question.

I don’t understand your comment at all. I also suggest replacing heads with Rainbird. They are more versatile and the dual spray heads fix a lot of the issues we have in TV.

[Marathon Man]

Sad that you gave this person your sales pitch for your personal preference rather than addressing the very specific and clear question.

Whoa !!!!! Too much coffee this morning?

"I am a newbie. Very new. I live in Summerfield ..." Maybe stick with Talk of Summerfield.

[DIver0258]

This is the first Spring in the new house. Decent size corner lot, and some areas are lush and green, others dry as a bone. Put rain gauges out, and, no surprise, the dry areas aren't getting any water compared to the green areas. From what I can tell, the dry areas are getting overshot by the stream.
I know I can reduce the stream by using the adjustment screw, BUT, if the wrong nozzle is being used to begin with, and you rely too much on the adjustment screw you just wind up with a ridiculous amount of water depositing right at the sprinkler head. It is better to have the appropriate nozzle for the distance you want to shoot, and make minor adjustments with the screw.
So, here's my problem: Most of my distances are in the 16-18 foot range, but when I look at the Hunter Nozzle Selection Chart, the minimum I can find is 22', using the low angle (gray) #4 nozzle, and the chart assumes a PSI of 30...of course, variations in PSI create variations in the distance of the throw.

I am hoping others out there who like to figure this stuff out for themselves, rather than "call the guy", can help me based upon their experiences with TV irrigation, and Hunter equipment.
I'm OK with trial and error, but would like a suggestion for where to start.

thanks in advance.

Rainbird nozzles will fit the hunter popups. There is a larger variety of choices and much cheaper. I changed several on our system due to the issues you are describing.

[Marathon Man]

Try YouTube. There is a wealth of information there and you can see experts actually doing what you would like to do. It has become a go to place for me.

[Larchap49]

Thanks, and I have done the plotting and the measuring, but Hunter rotor heads is what I've got.
But I think you could help me with one question I have. When you bought your Rainbird heads, did they shoot pretty close to the distance they were supposed to shoot? If so, that at least tells me that the PSI of our irrigation system is within the range that is expected by the manufacturer.

Water pressure in my system at water filter is 65 to 70 lbs so I assume it is close to that in sprinkler system. I changed sprinkler heads on side of house where lawn is only 6 to 8 feed wide to rainbird fixed fan 180 degree heads with 8 ft distance.

[bagboy]

[QUOTE=Hiltongrizz11;1940263]Sad that you gave this person your sales pitch for your personal preference rather than addressing the very

lol

[Bogie Shooter]

Whoa !!!!! Too much coffee this morning?

"I am a newbie. Very new. I live in Summerfield ..." Maybe stick with Talk of Summerfield.

:boom:

[DAVES]

Water pressure in my system at water filter is 65 to 70 lbs so I assume it is close to that in sprinkler system. I changed sprinkler heads on side of house where lawn is only 6 to 8 feed wide to rainbird fixed fan 180 degree heads with 8 ft distance.

I'm far from an expert but, as far as lawn watering, homes in the north villages are using potable water, drinking water, others are using recycled, reclaimed water. The two systems do not mix. So for people using reclaimed water, you must measure that pressure. Also people using the reclaimed water, your hoses are using potable water so measuring that pressure does not give you the information you seek.

We have two watering days. I doubt many follow what is supposed to be. I don't know but I would wonder if, you and your neighbor run your sprinkler at the same time if the pressure drops.

As far as browning lawns, I regularly ride my bike. It has been hot and dry. Most everyone has browning lawns. I would cut back on fertilizer which makes your lawn need more water and raise the cutting height which allows your grass to run roots deeper and shades the soil.

[Stuholden]

This is the first Spring in the new house. Decent size corner lot, and some areas are lush and green, others dry as a bone. Put rain gauges out, and, no surprise, the dry areas aren't getting any water compared to the green areas. From what I can tell, the dry areas are getting overshot by the stream.
I know I can reduce the stream by using the adjustment screw, BUT, if the wrong nozzle is being used to begin with, and you rely too much on the adjustment screw you just wind up with a ridiculous amount of water depositing right at the sprinkler head. It is better to have the appropriate nozzle for the distance you want to shoot, and make minor adjustments with the screw.
So, here's my problem: Most of my distances are in the 16-18 foot range, but when I look at the Hunter Nozzle Selection Chart, the minimum I can find is 22', using the low angle (gray) #4 nozzle, and the chart assumes a PSI of 30...of course, variations in PSI create variations in the distance of the throw.

I am hoping others out there who like to figure this stuff out for themselves, rather than "call the guy", can help me based upon their experiences with TV irrigation, and Hunter equipment.
I'm OK with trial and error, but would like a suggestion for where to start.

thanks in advance.


I am not a professional. There are two types of heads; those with the threads on the inside and those with threads on the outside. Hunter and Toro are compatable and have threads on the outside. I use Hunter MP1000 - 8'-15' and MP2000 - 13'-21'. Both are available on Amazon. My main issue with Hunter is that the filters clog, if you call the guy he will replace the whole head, if you do-it-yourself you clean the filter under the tap with a toothbrush.

[philoret]

It is possible to add sprinkler heads to an existing head outlet. The head is a pipe which screws onto an elbo joint in the lines about 1 foot under ground. You dig around it to replace. You can add a T-joint to the elbo and put two risers on, with different sprinkler heads, say rotor for distance, another for nearby. All the heads and riser parts are in ACE hardware among others. You can also get a T-joint that goes on the existing riser under the single head for attaching a drip tube outlet for particular plants; drip tubes use tips with various flow rates available, tubing in store.

[philoret]

Covrage with long stream rotors appears to be done with over-lapping, area near one sprinkler head is covered by drop from another rotor.

[luckydl]

This is the first Spring in the new house. Decent size corner lot, and some areas are lush and green, others dry as a bone. Put rain gauges out, and, no surprise, the dry areas aren't getting any water compared to the green areas. From what I can tell, the dry areas are getting overshot by the stream.
I know I can reduce the stream by using the adjustment screw, BUT, if the wrong nozzle is being used to begin with, and you rely too much on the adjustment screw you just wind up with a ridiculous amount of water depositing right at the sprinkler head. It is better to have the appropriate nozzle for the distance you want to shoot, and make minor adjustments with the screw.
So, here's my problem: Most of my distances are in the 16-18 foot range, but when I look at the Hunter Nozzle Selection Chart, the minimum I can find is 22', using the low angle (gray) #4 nozzle, and the chart assumes a PSI of 30...of course, variations in PSI create variations in the distance of the throw.

I am hoping others out there who like to figure this stuff out for themselves, rather than "call the guy", can help me based upon their experiences with TV irrigation, and Hunter equipment.
I'm OK with trial and error, but would like a suggestion for where to start.

thanks in advance.

Go ahead and use the screw to break into the nozzle stream just don't split the stream. The 16 to 18 ft. range is on the short side for the Hunter gear drive rotors so they may not be the best heads for proper coverage. You need 30 PSI minimum at the nozzle for a good spray pattern with the smaller nozzles you should be good. Because of the short distance nozzle selection is fairly limited. Make sure you have head to head coverage and adjust as needed. Rotors require a longer run time than a typical spray head so expect to run the station significantly longer than your spray heads. I would use some empty tuna cans as your catch cans. You might want to consider finger rotors as they may meet your distance range better than your current rotors. These type rotors have a low precipitation rate so need fairly long runtimes but perform well in light winds and usually will reduce runoff. Both Hunter and RainBird make quality heads in their commercial lines.

[joelfmi]

Go into The Home Depot ask for the Plumbing Master trade specialist tell him what you expect from the head do a flow and pressure test give him the number. Remember sprinkler installation is trade that the installer should and must be trained not for DYI. As they say your penny wise and dollar foolish when you try to do thing that you have knowledge about it usually cost you double.

[Boogie]

Had similar irrigation water not covering issue.
When your irrigation was originally installed it most likely covered the area good - they do a good job on irrigation down here.
Have you checked the problem heads for fine sand buildup inside the tiny teeth of spray head, and are all the ridges or teeth in good shape?
The ridges are plastic and do get brittle and fall out like a tooth.
If there is a fine screen, you may choose to remove it.
With the head off, turn the zone on to clear pipe.

Ace Hardware is a good source for same heads. Some Ace stores have better selection of Hunter sprinkler parts. Ace on 466 and 27/441 often have different Hunter irrigation stock.

Prior owner may have replaced a sprayer head with an entirely different spray head pattern than originally installed.
Sounds like you are ready for the challenge. You will get it resolved on your own.

We are back in northern Illinois until the Fall, so not able to offer in-person help.