View Full Version : Concrete buckled, lanai door won't open easily
JohnN
10-16-2021, 08:21 AM
Situation: 10 year old villa. The patio concrete has buckled about 1/8" (rebar would have been nice), just enough so the lanai door does not open cleanly. I need to "lift" it a bit to get that to happen. How do I fix this - inexpensively and permanently?
I'm "semi-handy", enough to make me dangerous and I don't want to screw this up and make my beautiful wife unhappy!!
Option 1 - grind the concrete down a bit. Never done that but I'd try. Probably only needs a couple of square feet done. Is there a portable drill bit attachment? I hate to have to get a big heavy duty grinder or call someone out for 2 square feet.
Option 2 - raise the door 1/8". I've looked at this, but the door is pretty secure in the frame and I can't figure out how to do that.
Option 3 - ???
Open to suggestions, most appreciated.
10/17/2021 UPDATE - This is the patio that has buckled a bit, not the house foundation. No trees involved, just the slab.
The villa is concrete stucco and no jeopardy there, the door is not a slider, it's a standard swinging metal patio door.
I'm leaning to taking the door down and avoiding the concrete mess. The patio is epoxy painted and I'd have to deal with that if I do grind the concrete. Thanks all.
blueash
10-16-2021, 08:25 AM
Situation: 10 year old villa. The patio concrete has buckled about 1/8" (rebar would have been nice), just enough so the lanai door does not open cleanly. I need to "lift" it a bit to get that to happen. How do I fix this - inexpensively and permanently?
I'm "semi-handy", enough to make me dangerous and I don't want to screw this up and make my beautiful wife unhappy!!
Option 1 - grind the concrete down a bit. Never done that but I'd try. Probably only needs a couple of square feet done. Is there a portable drill bit attachment? I hate to have to get a big heavy duty grinder or call someone out for 2 square feet.
Option 2 - raise the door 1/8". I've looked at this, but the door is pretty secure in the frame and I can't figure out how to do that.
Option 3 - ???
Open to suggestions, most appreciated.
The only suggestion I'd have is perhaps post a couple photos of the damage which might help others who are much handier than I with helping you
rjm1cc
10-16-2021, 08:54 AM
You can get a grinding wheel that can be used on a drill. Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/grinding-wheel-drill/s?k=grinding+wheel+for+drill)
I would do the grinding.
villagetinker
10-16-2021, 09:14 AM
You can rent concrete grinders at Lowe's and Home Depot, I believe they have smaller units that will be suitable for your project. I would do the entire concrete surface as the grinding will leave a surface that will be much different in appearance then the rest of the surface. Also, if you decide to paint or otherwise coat the ground concrete be sure to use TWICE the recommended amount of shark grip or equal so you do not end up with a slippery surface. I just had the lanai completely ground and repainted, so I am familiar with what was done.
The next thing you need to do is figure out why the concrete buckled, I would look for tree roots and if you find these cut them or you may have a continuing problem. A neighbor had this happen to their driveway.
If you decide to work on the door, check on the bottom, in many cases there is an adjustable piece of trim with several screws, that you may be able to loosen and adjust for additional clearence.
Hope this helps.
JohnN
10-16-2021, 07:52 PM
Thanks for the tips!
Topspinmo
10-16-2021, 09:04 PM
Situation: 10 year old villa. The patio concrete has buckled about 1/8" (rebar would have been nice), just enough so the lanai door does not open cleanly. I need to "lift" it a bit to get that to happen. How do I fix this - inexpensively and permanently?
I'm "semi-handy", enough to make me dangerous and I don't want to screw this up and make my beautiful wife unhappy!!
Option 1 - grind the concrete down a bit. Never done that but I'd try. Probably only needs a couple of square feet done. Is there a portable drill bit attachment? I hate to have to get a big heavy duty grinder or call someone out for 2 square feet.
Option 2 - raise the door 1/8". I've looked at this, but the door is pretty secure in the frame and I can't figure out how to do that.
Option 3 - ???
Open to suggestions, most appreciated.
Can’t cut 1/4” or sand off patio door? There not gap at the top is there where you could raise the door little bit?
My door sprung, I had to put the adjustment rod side to bottom and raise corner so it would drag?
sdeikenberry
10-17-2021, 05:02 AM
Can’t cut 1/4” or sand off patio door? There not gap at the top is there where you could raise the door little bit?
My door sprung, I had to put the adjustment rod side to bottom and raise corner so it would drag?
Answer: The question now becomes do you wish to do the repair the right way, or the quick way. In this case, the answers are different.
stadry
10-17-2021, 06:21 AM
wo actually seeing the door , we'd use a7" elec grinder WITH DUST SHROUD AND GOOD VACUUM ,,, pick out a cup wheel w/turbo diamond segment arrangement rather than concentric circular setup, 12 segs swill remove conc faster than 24 segs...tons of dust so be aware. the ground area will have a different surface texture of course compared to the unground area. if int send me a pm
good luck !
Luggage
10-17-2021, 06:27 AM
Photo? Sliders have adjustments as do hinged doors. And some hinge doors just need the top hinges tightened with a screwdriver to lift it a little. As another commenter said sliding doors almost always have adjustable bottom trims
Petersweeney
10-17-2021, 06:57 AM
Take the door off and cut 1/2 inch then put back the bottom trim or get a new one - much easier than messing with concrete
lpkruege1
10-17-2021, 07:04 AM
Situation: 10 year old villa. The patio concrete has buckled about 1/8" (rebar would have been nice), just enough so the lanai door does not open cleanly. I need to "lift" it a bit to get that to happen. How do I fix this - inexpensively and permanently?
I'm "semi-handy", enough to make me dangerous and I don't want to screw this up and make my beautiful wife unhappy!!
Option 1 - grind the concrete down a bit. Never done that but I'd try. Probably only needs a couple of square feet done. Is there a portable drill bit attachment? I hate to have to get a big heavy duty grinder or call someone out for 2 square feet.
Option 2 - raise the door 1/8". I've looked at this, but the door is pretty secure in the frame and I can't figure out how to do that.
Option 3 - ???
Open to suggestions, most appreciated.
Buy a 4" inch right angle grinder. Buy a diamond cupped wheel. Buy a couple of good dust masks and have at it. Repaint or reseal the concrete.
butlerism
10-17-2021, 07:47 AM
What is causing the buckling?
That is your first concern.
There have been many reports of settling issues in the newer developments.
We had a big Magnolia out back causing an issue in the bedroom. Gone
Also had an ugly Oak out front, As soon as I saw the front walk being lifted by a 1/4", good bye Oak tree. Those trees are too big and are always within a distance where they can fall on the house.
My insurance (State Farm) does not cover trees falling on and damage to the house. They will pay to have the tree removed. Not the house. Their words.
Easiest Solution.... NO TREES.
Also know that this is not real concrete, it is called Coquina. A mixture of cement, clam shells and Coral, horrible matrix as over time the shells become dessicated and they become dust. Then you have voids all over the place.
Take a ride and look at how many houses have driveways with huge cracks.
Go on the internet and look up Foundation repair, a company called RAM Jack is all over this area. For settling they will drill a 3/4" hole thru the concrete, and then they inject concrete under high pressure to lift the slab back up. They have been lifting the slabs at the mail box areas, just look for the row of white dots around the building.
butlerism
10-17-2021, 07:52 AM
I know a civil engineer here in SS. He said very simply these are not wood frame houses like up north. Meaning all the material around doors are typically all wood. Down here you can have two or three different types of materials all expanding at different amounts. So just by the time of the year doors and sliders may be affected.
Is this a recent thing? As in just in the last few days.
retiredguy123
10-17-2021, 08:03 AM
I would cut the door and leave the concrete alone. Much easier and cheaper.
Also, check for tree roots that may be causing the concrete to lift. Are you sure that the concrete lifted, and that the door didn't sag?
stadry
10-17-2021, 08:40 AM
Buy a 4" inch right angle grinder. Buy a diamond cupped wheel. Buy a couple of good dust masks and have at it. Repaint or reseal the concrete.
or you can borrow mine :-)
BEETHOVENMIKEY
10-17-2021, 08:43 AM
Personally, I would want to know what's going on and is it going to continue.
Most foundation issues, including settling or heaving concrete, derive from poor backfilling/compacting when the house was built. Thus, long term, if you take quick cosmetic measures, it's going to occur again...sometime.
Your Option #3 (and most expendive) would be getting a foundation company in getting it taken care of properly.
However, personally, we have a close friend who had the same situation in Rio Ponderosa, I put a 60 tooth carbide blade on my 5-1/2" trim saw, took the screen door down, took the door sweep off the bottom, and trimmed a half inch off the bottom. Then, attached a new door sweep and adjusted it when door was installed.
Keep in mind... when the split becomes a hazzard, you'll need to rent a small electric jack hammer and remove the high side of the split, down a half inch or so and at least 6" out from the split, clean it out and use an epoxy concrete patch and level out. Once cured, clean the whole lanai concrete and paint
Captainpd
10-17-2021, 08:48 AM
Mud jacking for long term solution
notme6w
10-17-2021, 10:52 AM
Cut the bottom of the door
zorrodog1
10-17-2021, 12:08 PM
I have a large oak tree in my front yard, and the roots are everywhere, and I have already paid to have part of the side walk ground down due to the roots displacing the walk way, and noticed my drive way lifted almost and inch on one side. Can I have the oak tree cut down? thanks
stadry
10-17-2021, 12:45 PM
already too high
mudjacking won'thelp - no diy solution other than grinding imho
villagetinker
10-17-2021, 12:50 PM
I have a large oak tree in my front yard, and the roots are everywhere, and I have already paid to have part of the side walk ground down due to the roots displacing the walk way, and noticed my drive way lifted almost and inch on one side. Can I have the oak tree cut down? thanks
You need to contact a licensed arborist to make a determination of the tree and the damage. They can then file the paperwork to have the tree removed legally. One company that I understand that can do this is Tree Frog, give them a call and they will tell you your options.
zorrodog1
10-17-2021, 01:30 PM
thank you
thevillages2013
10-17-2021, 05:13 PM
I didn’t see any pics. There is no way responses can be viable without the responder seeing a picture.
stadry
10-18-2021, 07:32 AM
[QUOTE=BEETHOVENMIKEY;2018324]Personally, I would want to know what's going on and is it going to continue.
Most foundation issues, including settling or heaving concrete, derive from poor backfilling/compacting when the house was built. no/one can know definitivly the reason for failure dia grindinggenerally structural but cab be cosmeticci, it's not necessarilygoing to occur again...sometime.
Your Option #3 (and most expensive)(expensive') would be getting a conc repair contractors/pecialist to a care ofit properlygruound
However, personally, we have a close friend who had the same situation in Rio Ponderosa, I put a 60 tooth carbide blade on my 5-1/2" trim saw, took the screen door down, took the door sweep off the bottom, and trimmed a half inch off the bottom. Then, attached a new door sweep and adjusted it when door was installed.
Keep in mind... when the split becomes a hazard, you'll need to rent a small electric jack hammer (you're kidding right? - hammer drill & bushing tool !!!and remove the high side of the split, down a half inch or so and at least 6" out from the split, clean it out and use a polymer modified concrete patching material & finish!. Once cured, clean lanai more thing there's no paint that's resistant to wear from pedestrian traffic IF there were, we wouldn't have to repaint porches!!!!!!
LarryL
01-24-2022, 04:28 PM
Contact Villages warrantee department. They may be able to get the original contractor to come fix their poor work.
Dana1963
01-24-2022, 04:52 PM
Contact Villages warrantee department. They may be able to get the original contractor to come fix their poor work.
It's a 10-year-old villa.
mulligan
01-25-2022, 10:04 AM
It's a 10-year-old villa.
It's worth a call to warranty. T&D warrants their concrete work for 10 years.
I vote for reducing the door size and I would do it with an offset handheld grinder and a super abrasive wheel(like a 24-32 grit). After you grind the bottom say 1/4" move the door sweep up by drilling new holes. I would also dig around the outside of the part of your lanai that is elevating and look for the cause of the concrete shift. Grinding the concrete would be very obvious and in my opinion look quite bad.
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