PVC outlet on house

[mjr0773]

Please can anyone tell me what this capped pvc pipe is? It is located on our courtyard villa on the exterior wall of the garage. (It is not the AC drain as that’s in a different place and wouldn’t be capped )
Serious answers only please.
Thanks in advance.

[retiredguy123]

It could be a water softener flushing outlet. Some water softeners do an automatic backflushing process to clean the system. So, if the previous owner had a water softener that was removed, they would have capped it off. Just a guess.

[villagetinker]

Please can anyone tell me what this capped pvc pipe is? It is located on our courtyard villa on the exterior wall of the garage. (It is not the AC drain as that’s in a different place and wouldn’t be capped )
Serious answers only please.
Thanks in advance.

Take a look inside the garage(?) and see if there is a pipe on the inside and follow to the end. If there is no visible pipe, then it could be a drain from the AC or water heater. I also agree with above about a water softener.

[mjr0773]

Take a look inside the garage(?) and see if there is a pipe on the inside and follow to the end. If there is no visible pipe, then it could be a drain from the AC or water heater. I also agree with above about a water softener.

Unfortunately the interior part of the pipe is behind drywall so difficult to trace. The AC drain is readily visible on the other side of garage closer to air handler so it’s not that. I don’t think there ever was a water softener in the house but it is pretty close to the water main shutoff valve that is behind a panel near the front of the garage in about the place that a water softener would be installed so I wonder if it’s just there as part of the builders design in case a water softener were to be installed at a later date after the house was built.

[rhood]

We have one too, but not capped. Located just outside the wall from the shutoff in the garage. I’m thinking it is a pressure relief valve. Perhaps theirs was dripping so it was capped.

[retiredguy123]

Typically, there should be 2 pipes where the A/C condensate drain is. The other one is for the water heater drain pan overflow. But, the pipe on the side of your house appears to be too high to be the water heater drain, and it wouldn't be capped off. Hopefully, you have an overflow drain from the water heater pan, and it drains somewhere outside the house.

[mjr0773]

Typically, there should be 2 pipes where the A/C condensate drain is. The other one is for the water heater drain pan overflow. But, the pipe on the side of your house appears to be too high to be the water heater drain, and it wouldn't be capped off. Hopefully, you have an overflow drain from the water heater pan, and it drains somewhere outside the house.
Yes sorry I should have noted that. The AC and water heater have their drains on the other side of the garage so all good with those.

[retiredguy123]

We have one too, but not capped. Located just outside the wall from the shutoff in the garage. I’m thinking it is a pressure relief valve. Perhaps theirs was dripping so it was capped.
If so, that would be a bad idea. If the water heater has a drain pan, the relief valve outlet should discharge directly into the drain pan. The discharge water can be very hot.

[Michael G.]

I would remove that cap and see if there's any drainage for starters.

[Bogie Shooter]

Give the warranty dept a call, they have a lot of information.

[MrFlorida]

Every house on my street has one of these. Nobody really knows what it is for. It does drip when the HWH is in use... I can tell you all that it is not ..... A condensate drip for the a/c, A relief valve for the HWH, or for any water softener . The pipe leading to these things are behind the wall, so you can't tell what it is connected to.. If anybody REALLY knows what it is , please let us know.

[retiredguy123]

Every house on my street has one of these. Nobody really knows what it is for. It does drip when the HWH is in use... I can tell you all that it is not ..... A condensate drip for the a/c, A relief valve for the HWH, or for any water softener . The pipe leading to these things are behind the wall, so you can't tell what it is connected to.. If anybody REALLY knows what it is , please let us know.
How can it drip if it is capped?

[mjr0773]

How can it drip if it is capped?
Correct. Mine is capped so no drip. My guess is for those who have no cap, over time the pvc broke down in the sunlight as pvc is not good for direct sunlight exposure over time and the cap came off.

[retiredguy123]

You could buy one of those flexible camera probes from Amazon for about 20 dollars and fish it through the water valve box.

[villagetinker]

Give the warranty dept a call, they have a lot of information.

good point, with several of the other comments, and your replies, I agree, call home warranty and ask.

[PJ_Smiley]

Conduit to cold box for cable or fiber?

Checked my original permit plans (courtyard villa) - there are two conduits listed on the side of the villa below the cold box running to the outside listed as follows:

1) Conduit drop for sprinkler system
2) Conduit drop for low voltage

[ohioshooter]

Please can anyone tell me what this capped pvc pipe is? It is located on our courtyard villa on the exterior wall of the garage. (It is not the AC drain as that’s in a different place and wouldn’t be capped )
Serious answers only please.
Thanks in advance.
How old is your house and are you the original owner?

[mjr0773]

How old is your house and are you the original owner?
17 years old in Sabal chase. No I am not the original owner

[ton80]

Conduit to cold box for cable or fiber?

Checked my original permit plans (courtyard villa) - there are two conduits listed on the side of the villa below the cold box running to the outside listed as follows:

1) Conduit drop for sprinkler system
2) Conduit drop for low voltage

I think you have solved the mystery, I agree that this is #2 cable drop for low voltage.
It sounds like this PVC pipe is on the side where the "cold/Low Voltage" box is. It probably is an inlet for cable or fiber for internet/cable.
At my house the conduits for sprinkler system were installed as part of the original construction. There was a cable drop to the outside through the foundation/slab with a potential connection for one of the cable vendor to use since that vendor paid the builder to pre install that connection. I chose a different cable vendor so the pre constructed line is abandoned. To me it looks like, your builder just provided a means for entry. There may be a short line that may actually extend into the low voltage box but not be connected to anything. It just provides a pre wired conduit piece to avoid cutting sheetrock or drilling masonry for a future cable/internet connection.... It may not have line installed but should allow snaking a line through to the low voltage box. The cap keeps the bugs and critters out of your garage.

[rhood]

Nope, it is a system water pressure relief valve discharge. When system water pressure spikes, it relieves the pressure. Similar to what is on the water heater but near the water entry point for the home. Plumbing code calls for it.

[mjr0773]

Nope, it is a system water pressure relief valve discharge. When system water pressure spikes, it relieves the pressure. Similar to what is on the water heater but near the water entry point for the home. Plumbing code calls for it.

Based on where it is located, (very close to the water entry point into the building) I find this to be quite possibly the case. I have never attempted to remove the cap, but I guess if the pressure spiked the cap would simply pop off allowing the pressure to be released.

[brianherlihy]

the hot over flow

[retiredguy123]

Based on where it is located, (very close to the water entry point into the building) I find this to be quite possibly the case. I have never attempted to remove the cap, but I guess if the pressure spiked the cap would simply pop off allowing the pressure to be released.
I don't think so. If it were a code requirement, all houses would have one. My house doesn't, and I have never seen one on any house.

[retiredguy123]

///

[retiredguy123]

Nope, it is a system water pressure relief valve discharge. When system water pressure spikes, it relieves the pressure. Similar to what is on the water heater but near the water entry point for the home. Plumbing code calls for it.
It is not a plumbing code requirement. I don't have one, and I have never seen one on any house. Can you cite the code paragraph that requires it?

[retiredguy123]

I think you have solved the mystery, I agree that this is #2 cable drop for low voltage.
It sounds like this PVC pipe is on the side where the "cold/Low Voltage" box is. It probably is an inlet for cable or fiber for internet/cable.
At my house the conduits for sprinkler system were installed as part of the original construction. There was a cable drop to the outside through the foundation/slab with a potential connection for one of the cable vendor to use since that vendor paid the builder to pre install that connection. I chose a different cable vendor so the pre constructed line is abandoned. To me it looks like, your builder just provided a means for entry. There may be a short line that may actually extend into the low voltage box but not be connected to anything. It just provides a pre wired conduit piece to avoid cutting sheetrock or drilling masonry for a future cable/internet connection.... It may not have line installed but should allow snaking a line through to the low voltage box. The cap keeps the bugs and critters out of your garage.
Maybe, but It doesn't sound right. You don't pull a COAX cable through a 90 degree conduit. Cable TV installers will just drill a hole through the wall. They don't need a conduit.

[Worldseries27]

based on where it is located, (very close to the water entry point into the building) i find this to be quite possibly the case. I have never attempted to remove the cap, but i guess if the pressure spiked the cap would simply pop off allowing the pressure to be released.
pressure build up in a line with a threaded cap would rupture the pcv piping. Saw water heater pressure relief valves that owners had plugged to stop a small drip issue to their regret.

[retiredguy123]

pressure build up in a line with a threaded cap would rupture the pcv piping. Saw water heater pressure relief valves that owners had plugged to stop a small drip issue to their regret.
Correct. When water pressure needs to be limited, they use a pressure regulator, which is a specialized metal valve installed in the main line that limits the amount of pressure that can pass through the valve.

[Malsua]

If so, that would be a bad idea. If the water heater has a drain pan, the relief valve outlet should discharge directly into the drain pan. The discharge water can be very hot.

The TPR needs to discharge somewhere visible. The pan is fine, but there needs to be an air gap. The ground, the floor, outside, also fine. It must also discharge in a way that does not cause injury. I.e. not be aimed sideways to directly or indirectly get into a normally occupied space.

It should not be threaded because someone will be tempted to screw a cap on it.

It also cannot be more than 6 inches above the floor or ground.

It can't be PVC either. There is an off whitish color CPVC and that would be ok. That looks like PVC.

The point being...a capped PVC hanging down outside, IF it was a TPR would not be compliant in any fashion. If I thought it was a TPR I'd write it if I was inspecting that home(I am a certified and licensed home inspector). I'd probably just verify it wasn't coming from the tank and let it go. I'm sure someone knows what it is. I have not seen that particular layout though.

[Sicknotto]

I have a friend whose pipe was also leaking fromthat pipe. I opened up the house water shut off cover, reached behind the wall and felt something coming off the pipe with a pipe leading to the outside.
I capped it off like the OP picture. No problem with the water supply to the house,AND, his water usage went down and so did his water bill.
My guess is that when the house was built they installed a pressure relief valve and the valves eventually fail open .

[MrFlorida]

Nope, it is a system water pressure relief valve discharge. When system water pressure spikes, it relieves the pressure. Similar to what is on the water heater but near the water entry point for the home. Plumbing code calls for it.

Bingo ! You solved the mystery....congrats.

[MrFlorida]

Correct. Mine is capped so no drip. My guess is for those who have no cap, over time the pvc broke down in the sunlight as pvc is not good for direct sunlight exposure over time and the cap came off.

It's not suppose to have a cap, its a vent and should be open.

[tomtauto]

These pressure relief valves were installed in place of an expansion tank at the water heater. Maybe this was the original setup and the water heater was replaced and utilized an expansion tank instead of the pressure relief valve that was normally installed in the wall near the shut-off valve in the garage. This pvc outlet seems to be in the correct location for an original pressure relief valve to vent to. Check to see if your water heater has an expansion tank--if it does the in-wall prv is not needed as I understand it.

[Nucky]

It’s a fill source for big azz white balloons!

[retiredguy123]

17 years old in Sabal chase. No I am not the original owner
OP, if your house was built around 2006, that is the year the plumbing code changed and required an expansion tank on your water heater. If the water heater has been replaced, hopefully they added an expansion tank. If you don't have one, I would suggest having one installed to stabilize your water pressure and protect your plumbing fixtures from damage.

I don't know if the PVC pipe on the exterior wall is connected to a relief valve or not, but it seems strange that the builder would hide a valve inside the wall. If you can determine that there is a valve in the wall, I would suggest having a plumber either remove the valve or replace it with an accessible valve that actually works. But, I don't think you need a valve, and it is not required by code. There may be a pressure regulator in your meter box.

[ton80]

These pressure relief valves were installed in place of an expansion tank at the water heater. Maybe this was the original setup and the water heater was replaced and utilized an expansion tank instead of the pressure relief valve that was normally installed in the wall near the shut-off valve in the garage. This pvc outlet seems to be in the correct location for an original pressure relief valve to vent to. Check to see if your water heater has an expansion tank--if it does the in-wall prv is not needed as I understand it.

Having an inaccessible PRV with a potential outlet restriction would violate safety practices that I am familiar with for industrial applications and current plumbing codes.

As pointed out previously, pressure relief valves must be located where they are accessible for inspection and replacement. If you have one, you must be able to see it. That is why the valve is typically installed on top of the water heater.

The PRV discharge line can not have restrictions such as a cap especially a threaded connection since this can lead to overpressure and system component failure.
Has anyone tried to remove the cap? Was it threaded? Was it easy to slip off of the PVC line?

Current plumbing codes require both the expansion tank and a PRV on top of a water heater. Adding an expansion tank does not eliminate the need for some pressure relief device. Most expansion tanks need to be replaced in about 5 years since the air bladder fails and there no longer is any pressure buffering since the air dissolves into the water over time.

[retiredguy123]

Having an inaccessible PRV with a potential outlet restriction would violate safety practices that I am familiar with for industrial applications and current plumbing codes.

As pointed out previously, pressure relief valves must be located where they are accessible for inspection and replacement. If you have one, you must be able to see it. That is why the valve is typically installed on top of the water heater.

The PRV discharge line can not have restrictions such as a cap especially a threaded connection since this can lead to overpressure and system component failure.
Has anyone tried to remove the cap? Was it threaded? Was it easy to slip off of the PVC line?

Current plumbing codes require both the expansion tank and a PRV on top of a water heater. Adding an expansion tank does not eliminate the need for some pressure relief device. Most expansion tanks need to be replaced in about 5 years since the air bladder fails and there no longer is any pressure buffering since the air dissolves into the water over time.
Correct. The relief valve on the water heater is called a T&P valve (temperature and pressure relief valve) and will open whenever the temperature exceeds 210 degrees or the pressure exceeds 150 psi. Almost all water heaters will come with the valve already installed on the tank.

[Worldseries27]

please can anyone tell me what this capped pvc pipe is? It is located on our courtyard villa on the exterior wall of the garage. (it is not the ac drain as that’s in a different place and wouldn’t be capped )
serious answers only please.
Thanks in advance.
could this work for you

[rhood]

If it wasn’t code, it wouldn’t be there. Simple as that.

[retiredguy123]

If it wasn’t code, it wouldn’t be there. Simple as that.
If it was required by the plumbing code, all houses would have them. Mine doesn't.

[pabotticelli]

It is a drain line from the pan that sits under an AC Unit or possibly a water heater.

[rhood]

If it was required by the plumbing code, all houses would have them. Mine doesn't.

In life, it’s important to stop arguing with people and let them be wrong.

[jarodrig]

If it was required by the plumbing code, all houses would have them. Mine doesn't.

Probably because you have an expansion tank installed on top of your water heater.

My first home built in 2005 had that pressure relief valve installed per code…. Same setup as the picture posted by the OP .

Unless the OP has an expansion tank installed on top of his water heater , that pipe shown in the picture he posted SHOULD NOT be capped !

[jarodrig]

Correct. The relief valve on the water heater is called a T&P valve (temperature and pressure relief valve) and will open whenever the temperature exceeds 210 degrees or the pressure exceeds 150 psi. Almost all water heaters will come with the valve already installed on the tank.

Yes , but that is NOT the topic of discussion.

The pressure relief valve being discussed it NOT on the water tank .

It’s installed near the home’s main water shutoff in the garage.

[jarodrig]

OP, if your house was built around 2006, that is the year the plumbing code changed and required an expansion tank on your water heater. If the water heater has been replaced, hopefully they added an expansion tank. If you don't have one, I would suggest having one installed to stabilize your water pressure and protect your plumbing fixtures from damage.

I don't know if the PVC pipe on the exterior wall is connected to a relief valve or not, but it seems strange that the builder would hide a valve inside the wall. If you can determine that there is a valve in the wall, I would suggest having a plumber either remove the valve or replace it with an accessible valve that actually works. But, I don't think you need a valve, and it is not required by code. There may be a pressure regulator in your meter box.

As I stated in a previous comment , my first home was built in 2005 , Tall Trees . I was the original owner . We DID NOT have an expansion tank . Per code at the time , the pressure relief valve was installed by the water shut off in the garage….

After a few years, the valve was constantly dripping, probably 24 hrs a day so we had Kiley and Sons replace it ….

The valve was NOT visible as it was behind drywall a foot or so above the shut off valve.

The plumber had to cut the drywall to get to the pressure relief valve to replace it . He did a nice neat job by installing another access panel for the valve for future service needs …

So, there you have it !!

I do believe that the original poster’s picture is the outlet for the pressure relief valve .

If he or the previous owner has not installed an expansion tank when the water tank was replaced , he should immediately take a hack saw and remove that cap at the end of the pipe …. If water continuously drips , then he should have the relief valve replaced .

My guess is that based on the age of the house (17 yrs) the water heater has been replaced and an expansion tank installed with the new tank , hence making the pressure relief valve unnecessary.

To the OP …. Look at your hot water tank , do you have an expansion tank like this installed ??

[mjr0773]

As I stated in a previous comment , my first home was built in 2005 , Tall Trees . I was the original owner . We DID NOT have an expansion tank . Per code at the time , the pressure relief valve was installed by the water shut off in the garage….

After a few years, the valve was constantly dripping, probably 24 hrs a day so we had Kiley and Sons replace it ….

The valve was NOT visible as it was behind drywall a foot or so above the shut off valve.

The plumber had to cut the drywall to get to the pressure relief valve to replace it . He did a nice neat job by installing another access panel for the valve for future service needs …

So, there you have it !!

I do believe that the original poster’s picture is the outlet for the pressure relief valve .

If he or the previous owner has not installed an expansion tank when the water tank was replaced , he should immediately take a hack saw and remove that cap at the end of the pipe …. If water continuously drips , then he should have the relief valve replaced .

My guess is that based on the age of the house (17 yrs) the water heater has been replaced and an expansion tank installed with the new tank , hence making the pressure relief valve unnecessary.

To the OP …. Look at your hot water tank , do you have an expansion tank like this installed ??

Yes. We just had the hot water heater replaced and an expansion tank was installed. The tank that we replaced also had an expansion tank. I believe that the tank we replaced was the original.

[NoMoSno]

My guess is that based on the age of the house (17 yrs) the water heater has been replaced and an expansion tank installed with the new tank , hence making the pressure relief valve unnecessary.

To the OP …. Look at your hot water tank , do you have an expansion tank like this installed ??
Even if you have an expansion tank installed a pressure relief valve is necessary and required by code.

[charron]

Please can anyone tell me what this capped pvc pipe is? It is located on our courtyard villa on the exterior wall of the garage. (It is not the AC drain as that’s in a different place and wouldn’t be capped )
Serious answers only please.
Thanks in advance.


We have one. 2006 Duval. It’s a pressure relief valve for the incoming house water line. (Water coming into the house from the street). Ours was not capped when we bought the house new, still isn’t capped. If water comes out, there’s a screw to adjust inside the garage, inside the little door where the water shut off is.

[villagetinker]

Even if you have an expansion tank installed a pressure relief valve is necessary and required by code.

I do not believe you are correct, our house a 2013 vintage, and ALL of the surrounding houses have expansion tanks and NO pressure Relief Valves, or drains like the OP posted.

[NoMoSno]

I do not believe you are correct, our house a 2013 vintage, and ALL of the surrounding houses have expansion tanks and NO pressure Relief Valves, or drains like the OP posted.
I had Mike Scott replace my heater last year.
They said both are required.
Reasoning they stated is "what happens when the rubber bladder in the tank fails, which they do?"
The relief valve takes over.
The relief valve is also an over temperature failsafe.

(or maybe since all their replacement tanks have the T&P relief valves installed from the factory, they just leave it?)

[jarodrig]

Yes. We just had the hot water heater replaced and an expansion tank was installed. The tank that we replaced also had an expansion tank. I believe that the tank we replaced was the original.

Mystery solved .

The picture you posted shows the drain to the original pressure relief valve.

Since you have an expansion tank installed, it’s perfectly fine that the pipe is capped .

You can rest easy …. Leave it alone …..

[retiredguy123]

The plumbing code is a detailed written document. You can't just say that something is "required by the code" without citing a section in the code that specifically requires it. But, several posters on this thread have claimed that things are required by the code, with no reference in the code to back it up.

[jarodrig]

The plumbing code is a detailed written document. You can't just say that something is "required by the code" without citing a section in the code that specifically requires it. But, several posters on this thread have claimed that things are required by the code, with no reference in the code to back it up.

I have no desire or interest in “backing it up”.

If it’s that important to you then research it yourself ! Then you can post that everyone else is wrong …. Don’t forget to post the refuting documentation ! LOL !

All I need to know is that if it was not required BY CODE then The Villages would not go through the extra expense in installing it ! They are all about “The Benjamin’s”

Proof enough for me ! LOL ;)

[NoMoSno]

The plumbing code is a detailed written document. You can't just say that something is "required by the code" without citing a section in the code that specifically requires it. But, several posters on this thread have claimed that things are required by the code, with no reference in the code to back it up.
2020 FLORIDA BUILDING CODE, PLUMBING, 7TH EDITION | ICC DIGITAL CODES (https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/FLPC2020P1/chapter-5-water-heaters)
504.4

"504.4Relief valve.

Storage water heaters operating above atmospheric pressure shall be provided with an approved, self-closing (levered) pressure relief valve and temperature relief valve or combination thereof. The relief valve shall conform to ANSI Z21.22. The relief valve shall not be used as a means of controlling thermal expansion."

[jarodrig]

2020 FLORIDA BUILDING CODE, PLUMBING, 7TH EDITION | ICC DIGITAL CODES (https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/FLPC2020P1/chapter-5-water-heaters)
504.4

"504.4Relief valve.

Storage water heaters operating above atmospheric pressure shall be provided with an approved, self-closing (levered) pressure relief valve and temperature relief valve or combination thereof. The relief valve shall conform to ANSI Z21.22. The relief valve shall not be used as a means of controlling thermal expansion."

Edit : I do think that covers it !

[retiredguy123]

2020 FLORIDA BUILDING CODE, PLUMBING, 7TH EDITION | ICC DIGITAL CODES (https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/FLPC2020P1/chapter-5-water-heaters)
504.4

"504.4Relief valve.

Storage water heaters operating above atmospheric pressure shall be provided with an approved, self-closing (levered) pressure relief valve and temperature relief valve or combination thereof. The relief valve shall conform to ANSI Z21.22. The relief valve shall not be used as a means of controlling thermal expansion."
That is a valve that comes pre-installed on all water heaters. Not a valve installed inside the garage wall.

[rhood]

Edit : I do think that covers it !

Don't think so ! 505.4 covers water heaters. The valve shown by the OP is not on a water heater. It is a pressure relief valve for the house system pressure. If it wasn't required by code, it wouldn't be there.

[ton80]

2020 FLORIDA BUILDING CODE, PLUMBING, 7TH EDITION | ICC DIGITAL CODES (https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/FLPC2020P1/chapter-5-water-heaters)
504.4

"504.4Relief valve.

Storage water heaters operating above atmospheric pressure shall be provided with an approved, self-closing (levered) pressure relief valve and temperature relief valve or combination thereof. The relief valve shall conform to ANSI Z21.22. The relief valve shall not be used as a means of controlling thermal expansion."

IMHO what we are seeing is that Codes keep changing and construction practices also change. I am including the picture of the top of a water heater included in a post above. It shows the current code 2020) required elements:
1. Inlet cold water with block valve and outlet hot water with NO valve
2. The expansion tank shown with red arrow.
3. The pressure/temperature relief valve in the center relieving to a PVC line discharging behind the water heater.

What is not shown, is the detail of the pressure/temperature relief valve flowing to the drip leg pipe with NO restrictions and an air gap.

In about 2006, plumbing codes added non return valves (check valves) at the meter to prevent backflow from the house into the water distribution system. In turn expansion tanks were now required.

All homes I have owned since at least 2000 have had the current code setup with expansion tanks and PRV's discharging to the floor or drip pan. I have never seen this hidden valve setup with adjustments at the water inlet. This arrangement apparently was a standard practice in TV circa 2006 or so as described above. IMHO and experience designing utility systems for Refineries, all pressure relieving devices must be accessible and discharge to a safe location which for potable water can be to grade.

My suggestion is for everyone to look at the top of their water heater to confirm that they have an expansion tank and a Pressure/Temperature relieving valve installed. If you have these, I see no reason for the in wall PRV to this drain. If you have a hidden PRV behind the sheetrock, check to see if you have leakage and talk to your plumber about removal.

The hidden valve may be a small capacity thermal relief valve designed to release small amounts of water that need to be removed to decrease the pressure buildup caused by water in a closed section of pipe/tank that gets heated. This is precisely what the expansion tank does. It may have been a cheaper way to handle water expansion due to heating before expansion tanks became a code requirement. None-the-less, it should not have been hidden inside the wall IMHO>

You should also be aware that expansion tanks only last 5 or 6 years. Check them by tapping on the expansion tank to confirm some air space see you tube for examples. Two have failed here in our neighborhood, one with water damage.

[Jerseygirl08]

Based on where it is located, (very PVC puclose to the water entry point into the building) I find this to be quite possibly the case. I have never attempted to remove the cap, but I guess if the pressure spiked the cap would simply pop off allowing the pressure to be released. I had a constant drip from this same PVC pipe (patio villa, same location though). I called Kylie Plumbing after weeks of constant fast drips. Said I needed an expansion tank for my hot water heater. Once that was in place ($260 later) the dripping stopped. Then, two years later, 2022, I replaced my hot water heater and (Curry Plumbing from Ocala) plumber also replaced the expansion tank. I still have no more dripping from that pipe. Hope this helps.