40 Gallon Electric Water Heater

[New Englander]

I'm thinking about replacing my 12-year-old water heater. If anyone has done this recently, what plumbing outfit did you use, and what was the total cost? Thanks

[retiredguy123]

Mike Scott Plumbing will do it for about $900. I recommend this company. Whoever you hire, make sure their quote includes a new expansion tank.

[Topspinmo]

So, what’s wrong with it?

[villagetinker]

I agree with the previous estimate, there was a local plumber advertising for around that cost. Youn are wise to look into replacement, ours lasted 12 years, then I noticed the leak at the top of the unit.

[rjm1cc]

Check with your local utility to see if they have a deal

[New Englander]

So, what’s wrong with it?

It's on borrowed time.

[jrref]

Mike Scott Plumbing will do it for about $900. I recommend this company. Whoever you hire, make sure their quote includes a new expansion tank.

Just make sure whichever hot water tank you buy that it has a warrenty of 12 years. I believe most of these companies are installing 6 year warranty tanks. Nothing wrong with that but it may not last as long.

I would recommend:
1) Rheem
Gladiator 40 Gal. Medium 12-Year 5500-Watt Double Element Smart Electric Water Heater w/ Leak Detection and Auto Shutoff - $649 at Home Depot
2) A.O. Smith Signature 500 40-Gallons Short 12-year Warranty 5500-watt Double Element Grid Capable Smart Electric Water Heater with Leak Detection and Automatic Shut-off -$849 at Lowes

Both these heaters have leak detection AND water shutoff and can be installed by Mike Scott or any other HVAC contractor, you just need to ask.

But if you want cheap and a replacement for what you probably have, almost all HVAC companies have their standard hot water heater replacement for under $1,000.

[New Englander]

One company wanted $1,455, and Mike Scott wanted $910. Mike Scott is coming tomorrow, and there is no extra charge for weekend work.
Thanks to all who answered my post

[Topspinmo]

I wish my house had electric water heater, they are easy to replace. I’m almost tempted next time (if I’m still able) to have electrician run 220V dedicated line so I can install electric water heater.

[jrref]

One company wanted $1,455, and Mike Scott wanted $910. Mike Scott is coming tomorrow, and there is no extra charge for weekend work.
Thanks to all who answered my post

So, you have to compare the equipment they are installing and what they are changing during the installation process.

For example, is one company giving you a "builder grade" 6 year tank vs an upgraded tank? Is one company just changing the tank and not the connecting hoses and the expansion tank? You have to look at all this vs just using the price as a decision point.

[New Englander]

So, you have to compare the equipment they are installing and what they are changing during the installation process.

For example, is one company giving you a "builder grade" 6 year tank vs an upgraded tank? Is one company just changing the tank and not the connecting hoses and the expansion tank? You have to look at all this vs just using the price as a decision point.

I understand what you're saying. The not chosen Co. uses "State" Hot Water Tanks. Mike Scott uses Rheem. Rheem is what Mike Scott used on my original install and it's 12 years old now. In my Villa section two water heaters have failed recently. I think it is money well spent.

[retiredguy123]

I understand what you're saying. The not chosen Co. uses "State" Hot Water Tanks. Mike Scott uses Rheem. Rheem is what Mike Scott used on my original install and it's 12 years old now. In my Villa section two water heaters have failed recently. I think it is money well spent.
OP, I can almost guarantee you that Mike Scott will be installing a Rheem water heater with a 6-year warranty, and they will be installing a new expansion tank. You can upgrade to the 12-year warranty and pay more, but I wouldn't. My Rheem has a 6-year warranty, and it is still working fine after 10 years. By the way, the warranty will only cover the parts, which will most likely be less than half of the labor cost to replace the water heater.

[MX rider]

Be sure to shop around. We used Torri Plumbing in Wildwood and did it for less than $800. We had a few estimates over $1500. It's a 90 minute job for a good plumber.

[thevillages2013]

To whom it may concern, STAY AWAY from Frank Gay!

[retiredguy123]

Just make sure whichever hot water tank you buy that it has a warrenty of 12 years. I believe most of these companies are installing 6 year warranty tanks. Nothing wrong with that but it may not last as long.

I would recommend:
1) Rheem
Gladiator 40 Gal. Medium 12-Year 5500-Watt Double Element Smart Electric Water Heater w/ Leak Detection and Auto Shutoff - $649 at Home Depot
2) A.O. Smith Signature 500 40-Gallons Short 12-year Warranty 5500-watt Double Element Grid Capable Smart Electric Water Heater with Leak Detection and Automatic Shut-off -$849 at Lowes

Both these heaters have leak detection AND water shutoff and can be installed by Mike Scott or any other HVAC contractor, you just need to ask.

But if you want cheap and a replacement for what you probably have, almost all HVAC companies have their standard hot water heater replacement for under $1,000.
With all due respect, I don't understand your reasoning. You can buy a Rheem water heater with a 6-year warranty for a retail price of $449 or a Rheem water heater with a 12-year warranty for $649. The labor to install it is not covered by the warranty. What is wrong with a 6-year warranty for an item that costs less than $500? My car cost $35K and it only had a 3-year warranty. Also, if your 12-year warranty water heater fails at 10 years, how long is it going to take to contact Rheem and enforce the warranty to save $249, while you are out of hot water? If your 6-year warranty water heater fails at 10 years, a plumber will replace it the same day. To me, it is a no brainer that the water heater with a 6-year warranty is a better deal.

[MandoMan]

With all due respect, I don't understand your reasoning. You can buy a Rheem water heater with a 6-year warranty for a retail price of $449 or a Rheem water heater with a 12-year warranty for $649. The labor to install it is not covered by the warranty. What is wrong with a 6-year warranty for an item that costs less than $500? My car cost $35K and it only had a 3-year warranty. Also, if your 12-year warranty water heater fails at 10 years, how long is it going to take to contact Rheem and enforced the warranty to save $249, while you are out of hot water? If your 6-year warranty water heater fails at 10 years, a plumber will replace it the same day. To me, it is a no brainer that the water heater with a 6-year warranty is a better deal.

AI agrees with you. Here’s what it says:
“The difference in quality between an electric hot water heater with a six-year warranty and one with a twelve-year warranty is often minimal, with the longer warranty primarily reflecting the manufacturer's confidence in the longevity of the product. While some manufacturers may include slightly better components like a thicker anode rod or a more robust tank lining in the 12-year models, the core construction is often the same. The longer warranty essentially acts as a form of insurance, offering more coverage in case of premature failure.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Warranty as Insurance:
The longer warranty doesn't necessarily guarantee a longer lifespan, but it does provide more coverage if the water heater fails within the warranty period. This can be particularly valuable if the unit fails in the later years of its expected lifespan.
Potential Component Differences:
While the core construction might be similar, manufacturers might use slightly better components in the 12-year models. For example, they might include a thicker or longer anode rod to protect the tank from corrosion for a longer period.
Read the Fine Print:
It's crucial to read the warranty details carefully. Some warranties are pro-rated, meaning you might only receive a partial credit towards a replacement if the unit fails in the later years.
Lifespan vs. Warranty:
Most tank water heaters are expected to last between 8 to 12 years, with proper maintenance. A 12-year warranty provides coverage for a significant portion of that lifespan, while a 6-year warranty might not cover the full expected lifespan.
Cost vs. Benefit:
A longer warranty will typically come at a higher upfront cost. Consider whether the additional cost is worth the increased coverage, especially if you are diligent about maintenance and understand the potential for pro-rated replacements.”

My garage door faces east, the side wall faces south, and there is no insulation above the ceiling, so it gets really hot in the garage in the summer. I wonder if that slows the dissipation of heat through the water heater walls.

[Cliff Fr]

They don't make them like they used too. We had our 40 gallon electric water heater replaced last year. It was a GE from 1996 there was nothing wrong with it I only replaced it out of caution. The house was built in 2001 and the owner/builder put a used water heater in.

[retiredguy123]

They don't make them like they used too. We had our 40 gallon electric water heater replaced last year. It was a GE from 1996 there was nothing wrong with it I only replaced it out of caution. The house was built in 2001 and the owner/builder put a used water heater in.
I agree, but what appliance can you buy today that costs less than $500 and has a 6-year warranty? Some people spend more than $2,000 for a refrigerator and only get a 1-year warranty.

[SaucyJim]

How about tankless? Anyone have opinions on that as an option for replacement?

[retiredguy123]

How about tankless? Anyone have opinions on that as an option for replacement?
If you have a tank type electric water heater, replacing it with an electric tankless water heater will not work without costly electrical upgrades to your house. You may even need to upgrade your electrical panel. It is usually not worth it. Get a quote from an electrician.

[bowlingal]

jrref....Mike Scott installs Rehm elec 40 gal water heaters for about $900 with expansion tank ( required by law) and ALL connections and removes old heater too! Rehm is top of the line and the warranty is 10 years

[G.R.I.T.S.]

Consider a tankless water heater before purchasing the 40-gallon.

[Frank495]

Consider insta hot water heater, I experienced a significant decrease in electric bill.

[retiredguy123]

jrref....Mike Scott installs Rehm elec 40 gal water heaters for about $900 with expansion tank ( required by law) and ALL connections and removes old heater too! Rehm is top of the line and the warranty is 10 years
You are correct. Apparently, Rheem has revised their classic warranty to 10 years. However, this warranty only covers the parts for 10 years, and the labor for one year. When you replace a water heater, the labor will be the most expensive part of the replacement.

Update: Home Depot and the Rheem website still refers to the performance $449 water heater as having a 6-year warranty, but other websites show it to be 10 years. Very confusing.

[Mrfriendly]

I'm thinking about replacing my 12-year-old water heater. If anyone has done this recently, what plumbing outfit did you use, and what was the total cost? Thanks

Kiley & Son’s replaced ours 2yrs ago. Very pleased with their service:
$940 + $70 new 40 gal electric water heater.

[jrref]

You are correct. Apparently, Rheem has revised their classic warranty to 10 years. However, this warranty only covers the parts for 10 years, and the labor for one year. When you replace a water heater, the labor will be the most expensive part of the replacement.

I like Mike Scott. I feel that specific company provides a good service at a fair price.

If the above is correct, then go with the $900 deal unless you want the automatic water detection and shutoff Rheem tank. I'm sure they will install that at well at a slightly higher cost.

I often question a HVAC company advertising a cheap price "special". In those situations you need to find out what equipment they are installing and what they are replacing during the installation.

About the 6 year vs 10 or 12 year warranty. What most have said is basically true but for example, just having a larger anode rod for example, can extend the life of the tank more years. We have pulled the anode rod on the basic and upgraded tanks and confirmed the longer warranty tank had a thicker anode rod and some use two instead of one to extend the life of the tank. So, the point of the longer warranty is to get a better made tank that has the potential of lasting longer. And of course, if it ever fails the pro rate will be better so there is some benefit there.

Finally, whomever installs your system, Always make sure they pressurize the expansion tank to the maximum water pressure at your home. These tanks come from the factory with a 40psi charge when you probably need 70psi. If this is not done, the tank will not work properly and fail prematurely. You don't know how many so called "professionals" skip this step for some reason.

[jrref]

With all due respect, I don't understand your reasoning. You can buy a Rheem water heater with a 6-year warranty for a retail price of $449 or a Rheem water heater with a 12-year warranty for $649. The labor to install it is not covered by the warranty. What is wrong with a 6-year warranty for an item that costs less than $500? My car cost $35K and it only had a 3-year warranty. Also, if your 12-year warranty water heater fails at 10 years, how long is it going to take to contact Rheem and enforce the warranty to save $249, while you are out of hot water? If your 6-year warranty water heater fails at 10 years, a plumber will replace it the same day. To me, it is a no brainer that the water heater with a 6-year warranty is a better deal.


The main reason is the anode rod in the 12 year tank will be thicker than the 6 year tank. They list this in their specifications. The performance of the anode rod will determine the longevity of the tank. Remember, the anode rod is a sacrifical rod that protects the tank from corrosion.

The other option if you are handy is to get the 6 year tank and purchase an electronic anode rod. You can get these on Amazon. Then at installation have the tech remove the anode rod and install the electronic rod. You will void the warranty but from what everyone has indicated the warrany is not worth much anyway. With the electronic rod the tank should last a very long time.

[Vickim]

Second Mike Scott’s !
Check for rebates mine was done for $700 but that was in 2021 with a $200 rebate

[chickadee]

I bought the Rheem Gladiator with auto shut off valve and leak detection and had Torri Plumbing do the install…I did have to already have the unit at my home as they do not pick up items at Home Depot. Excellent job and about $900 total. Very pleased with their professionalism and they took old heater with them. Auto Shut Off valve is a definite Plus!

[retiredguy123]

The main reason is the anode rod in the 12 year tank will be thicker than the 6 year tank. They list this in their specifications. The performance of the anode rod will determine the longevity of the tank. Remember, the anode rod is a sacrifical rod that protects the tank from corrosion.

The other option if you are handy is to get the 6 year tank and purchase an electronic anode rod. You can get these on Amazon. Then at installation have the tech remove the anode rod and install the electronic rod. You will void the warranty but from what everyone has indicated the warrany is not worth much anyway. With the electronic rod the tank should last a very long time.
I doubt that many people will do this. If a $449 water heater lasts only 8 to 10 years, I feel like I got my money's worth.

[New Englander]

Consider a tankless water heater before purchasing the 40-gallon.

My home is all electric. Electric and tankless is not a good match.

[Nancy@Pinellas]

We used Dove Plumbing. There were no issues. They came the next day after we called.

[jrref]

I doubt that many people will do this. If a $449 water heater lasts only 8 to 10 years, I feel like I got my money's worth.

You are exactly right. Very few will ever do this. Even worse, very few will do any maintenance on their tank like draining it periodically for example. They just install it, and forget about it until it leaks or fails somehow.

If I had a choice of getting the $449.99 special from the "Chuck in a truck" company vs the $900 tank from Mike Scott, I would get the $900 tank. For the extra money I would have more peace of mind that the tank would last longer and Mike Scott would stand behind the product if anything came up.

I'm not saying this is going to happen with the $449 tank but some guys will literally unhook the old tank and replace it with the new tank using all the existing connections. When you ask why they are not replacing the connections or the expansion tank they will say something like "Oh they are fine, no need to replace". They get your money and at some point in the future you will be paying more to replace the expansion tank or whatever they didn't do.

[Gene63]

I'm thinking about replacing my 12-year-old water heater. If anyone has done this recently, what plumbing outfit did you use, and what was the total cost? Thanks

We don’t live in TV but replaced our old 40 gallon with a tankless on demand hot water heater. Had it now for about 16 months and love it. Very economical and no need to continually heat 40 gallons of water.

[Sparky365]

Why is there no space to replace the anode rod in the way they are installed.

Does anyone here replace these instead of replacing the tank itself?

[New Englander]

I am the OP. I'm replacing the water heater today because it's 12.5 years old. Two water heaters in my Villas have failed recently. The one a couple of houses from me did a lot of damage. I'm sure a $910 is not the best, but I'm very happy to have a new one today. I can expect the plumber to arrive between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Also, Mike Scott Plumbing has a good reputation in The Villages.

[craiglittler]

I'm thinking about replacing my 12-year-old water heater. If anyone has done this recently, what plumbing outfit did you use, and what was the total cost? Thanks

It's simple to hook a water heater. Any decent handy man can do it and it shouldn't cost much. It may be an hours work.

[nn0wheremann]

I'm thinking about replacing my 12-year-old water heater. If anyone has done this recently, what plumbing outfit did you use, and what was the total cost? Thanks
Mike Scott. Cost about $900. No problems, no bullsh@t, no issues, no muss no fuss just good service and a working water heater.

[John Sarubbi]

We replaced ours with a 50 gal about 2-3 years ago for $1025. out the door and Dove Plumbing , Wildwood did an excellent job. They also replace some of the push-pull valves under the toilets another time.

[lawgolfer]

I'm thinking about replacing my 12-year-old water heater. If anyone has done this recently, what plumbing outfit did you use, and what was the total cost? Thanks
Whichever brand or model of water heater you choose, add a Watts pump that recirculates the hot water throughout your house. You will then have hot water at each tap within seconds. You'll save a few dollars on your monthly water bill by not wasting water while waiting for hot water to reach the taps. More important is the pleasure you'll receive by not standing naked and out of the way of the stream of water in your shower, waiting for the hot water.

Drain and flush the tank of the new water heater every year. This removes sediment from settling in the bottom of the tank. This is particularly important with gas water heaters as the sediment can grow to inches thick at the bottom of the tank requiring that it be heated before the water is heated.

Finally, replace the anode rod every 5 years. This rod will be aluminum or magnesium and is "sacrificial" which means that it will corrode instead of the iron tank. After the first replacement, you can adjust the number of years before making future replacements of the anode. If at the first replacement at 5 years, the aluminum or magnesium is completely gone, make the next replacement at 4 years. If the anode still has a fair amount of aluminum or magnesium at 5 years, you can extend the time for the next replacement to 6 years.

It is corrosion in the iron tank that, ultimately, creates a hole in the tank that requires its replacement. With regular draining of the tank and replacement of the sacrificial anode, a water heater can last for many years. Ours is now on its 22nd year. If the tank is not rusting the only parts that can fail are the heating rods in an electric heater, or the burner or the thermocouple in a gas heater.

With the heater's tank protected by a functioning sacrificial anode, the item in the system that is most likely to fail is the expansion tank. The metal wall of the expansion tank is relatively thin, will rust and, eventually, develop a leak.

I know to expect a response to this post by a good ole boy who will say that he's NEVER replaced the sacrificial anode and that doing so is a waste of money. Should you read that, remember that there are people who never change the oil in their cars.

[jrref]

Why is there no space to replace the anode rod in the way they are installed.

Does anyone here replace these instead of replacing the tank itself?

When you replace the anode rod in an existing installation you need to unscrew it, pull it up as much as you can, place a vice grip of something where it enters the tank and saw it in two pieces with a hack saw. The new anode rod will be one with links so you can replace it.

[jrref]

Whichever brand or model of water heater you choose, add a Watts pump that recirculates the hot water throughout your house. You will then have hot water at each tap within seconds. You'll save a few dollars on your monthly water bill by not wasting water while waiting for hot water to reach the taps. More important is the pleasure you'll receive by not standing naked and out of the way of the stream of water in your shower, waiting for the hot water.

Drain and flush the tank of the new water heater every year. This removes sediment from settling in the bottom of the tank. This is particularly important with gas water heaters as the sediment can grow to inches thick at the bottom of the tank requiring that it be heated before the water is heated.

Finally, replace the anode rod every 5 years. This rod will be aluminum or magnesium and is "sacrificial" which means that it will corrode instead of the iron tank. After the first replacement, you can adjust the number of years before making future replacements of the anode. If at the first replacement at 5 years, the aluminum or magnesium is completely gone, make the next replacement at 4 years. If the anode still has a fair amount of aluminum or magnesium at 5 years, you can extend the time for the next replacement to 6 years.

It is corrosion in the iron tank that, ultimately, creates a hole in the tank that requires its replacement. With regular draining of the tank and replacement of the sacrificial anode, a water heater can last for many years. Ours is now on its 22nd year. If the tank is not rusting the only parts that can fail are the heating rods in an electric heater, or the burner or the thermocouple in a gas heater.

With the heater's tank protected by a functioning sacrificial anode, the item in the system that is most likely to fail is the expansion tank. The metal wall of the expansion tank is relatively thin, will rust and, eventually, develop a leak.

I know to expect a response to this post by a good ole boy who will say that he's NEVER replaced the sacrificial anode and that doing so is a waste of money. Should you read that, remember that there are people who never change the oil in their cars.

You are doing the right thing. The problem is if you can do it yourself great but if you can't I believe a plumber will chage $200-$300 to drain and replace the rod so most don't do it.

[retiredguy123]

The main reason is the anode rod in the 12 year tank will be thicker than the 6 year tank. They list this in their specifications. The performance of the anode rod will determine the longevity of the tank. Remember, the anode rod is a sacrifical rod that protects the tank from corrosion.

The other option if you are handy is to get the 6 year tank and purchase an electronic anode rod. You can get these on Amazon. Then at installation have the tech remove the anode rod and install the electronic rod. You will void the warranty but from what everyone has indicated the warrany is not worth much anyway. With the electronic rod the tank should last a very long time.
Two points:

1. My water heater location has no outlet to plug in the electronic anode.
2. I question if the installer will agree to install a new anode on a new water heater. I tend to doubt that they will, especially since the warranty will be voided.

[collie1228]

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

[jrref]

Two points:

1. My water heater location has no outlet to plug in the electronic anode.
2. I question if the installer will agree to install a new anode on a new water heater. I tend to doubt that they will, especially since the warranty will be voided.

Right so to use the electronic anode rod you need electric and you probably need to do it yourself or get a handyman to do it. Several of us in my Village got together and did the work ourselves.

[jrref]

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

I'm assuming you also did your own maintenance on your water heaters?

[Topspinmo]

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

Agree, under normal circumstances water heater on city treated water should last longer than 12 years most 15 and some over 20 years. Now if your on well water (depending on minerals in well water?) expect 10 years max. When I lived in Oklahoma on well water I always brought 12 warranty water heater and I alway got free one before warranty expired. In 20 years I lived there I replace 4 water heaters 2 were free due to didn’t last longer than warranty, which all developed pin hole leak in bottom. Was in utility room with drain so no problem with water damage.

[CybrSage]

My home is all electric. Electric and tankless is not a good match.

What is bad about saving money and using less electricity while also being able to tell the grandkids you are saving the environment by polluting less?

In the Villages, the tankless heater is outside, where it starts quite hot already from the sun heating it for free. Plus any leaks do not flood the house.

Tankless water heaters can be 24%-34% more efficient for households using 41 gallons of hot water or less daily, and 8%-14% more efficient for those using around 86 gallons daily.

[retiredguy123]

What is bad about saving money and using less electricity while also being able to tell the grandkids you are saving the environment by polluting less?

In the Villages, the tankless heater is outside, where it starts quite hot already from the sun heating it for free. Plus any leaks do not flood the house.

Tankless water heaters can be 24%-34% more efficient for households using 41 gallons of hot water or less daily, and 8%-14% more efficient for those using around 86 gallons daily.
Tankless water heaters are fine if they are installed with a new house. But, the question was about replacing an electric tank type water heater with a tankless heater (Post No. 19). Usually, this does not make sense, especially for an all-electric house. The house electrical system was not designed to accomodate an electric tankless water heater. So, you need to hire an electrician as to install a new high amp circuit and to run it to the water heater location. And, sometimes, the electrical panel will not even accommodate the high amp circuit breaker, so you need to upgrade the panel. In most cases, it makes more sense to just replace the existing tank type water heater with another tank type unit.

[toddao]

I use CPM Plumbing for all my needs. They are reliable, reasonably priced. and their reps are well qualified. They replaced my 50 gallon water heater and expansion tank and all fittings for $1,465.

[retiredguy123]

I use CPM Plumbing for all my needs. They are reliable, reasonably priced. and their reps are well qualified. They replaced my 50 gallon water heater and expansion tank and all fittings for $1,465.
I would just point out that it sounds expensive considering that the OP's cost was only $910 for a 40 gallon water heater. The cost difference between a 50 gallon and 40 gallon heater is only $100 retail.

[New Englander]

Tankless water heaters are fine if installed with a new house. But the question was about replacing an electric tank-type water heater with a tankless heater (Post No. 19). Usually, this does not make sense, especially for an all-electric house. The house electrical system was not designed to accommodate an electric tankless water heater. So, you need to hire an electrician to install a new high amp circuit and to run it to the water heater location. And, sometimes, the electrical panel will not even accommodate the high amp circuit breaker, so you need to upgrade the panel. In most cases, it makes more sense to just replace the existing tank type water heater with another tank type unit.

If I did all that. Would I be saving the planet? I doubt it.

[Skip]

I do my own plumbing and have replaced several water heaters, both gas and electric, over the years. I have never had a warranty claim; my heaters have all exceeded their warranty periods. I don’t see a need for a longer warranty, as a good quality water heater is pretty bulletproof.

I do my own also. I flush the entire tank at the drain, once per year, and replace the sacrifice anode every 5-6 years. You can get 20+ years out of the appliance if you maintain it correctly. Plumbers won't tell you this.

Skip

[New Englander]

I do my own also. I flush the entire tank at the drain, once per year, and replace the sacrifice anode every 5-6 years. You can get 20+ years out of the appliance if you maintain it correctly. Plumbers won't tell you this.

Skip

Please describe your method of flushing your tank.

[New Englander]

OP, I can almost guarantee you that Mike Scott will be installing a Rheem water heater with a 6-year warranty, and they will be installing a new expansion tank. You can upgrade to the 12-year warranty and pay more, but I wouldn't. My Rheem has a 6-year warranty, and it is still working fine after 10 years. By the way, the warranty will only cover the parts, which will most likely be less than half of the labor cost to replace the water heater.

You are 100% correct. It has a 6-year warranty and is a Rheem. Looks similar to old heater but a little more efficient. The new tank came with everything new. He said that's the only way Scott does it. It took about. two hours. I'm hoping the new tank lasts like the old one

[jrref]

You are 100% correct. It has a 6-year warranty and is a Rheem. Looks similar to old heater but a little more efficient. The new tank came with everything new. He said that's the only way Scott does it. It took about. two hours. I'm hoping the new tank lasts like the old one

This is what I mean. A reputable company like Mike Scott, Dove, CPM and others will do the job correctly but don't expect that from everyone especially someone with a very low price.

Also, don't forget to make sure the tech pressurizes the expansion tank properly. It needs to be done Before they install it.

[lawgolfer]

You are doing the right thing. The problem is if you can do it yourself great but if you can't I believe a plumber will chage $200-$300 to drain and replace the rod so most don't do it.

I admit that changing the anode is a PITA (pain in the a**). Having done it 6 or 7 times, I've concluded that water heater manufacturers make the job hard so the homeowner won't bother. The tank will then rust through and the manufacturer will have another sale.

First, apply lots of penetrating oil around the head of the rod and let it sit overnight. The A.O. Smith tank in our house requires a 1&1/16 or 27mm socket. This large a socket has a 1/2" square drive. You will need a "breaker bar" of 18" minimum length. Be careful as you will be working on a stepladder. You may need to apply more penetrating oil and let it set another night. Don't despair as, eventually, it will come loose and you will experience a great deal of satisfaction in having done the job.

Interestingly, the job will be easier when you do the next replacement in 5 years because you will have wrapped the threads of the rod you put in place 5 years earlier with several wraps of teflon tape.

Replacing the anode in a Bradford White water heater is a real PITA. The anode is integral with the outlet tube in contrast to the Rheem, A.O. Smith and most other brands. The problem is that the top of the rod is aluminum while the threads are steel. You would need a special offset wrench or socket to the able to get a grip on the top of the steel. Instead, most people will put a pipe wrench of the aluminum tube which will then twist off or crush.

The trick with a Bradford White is to remove the flex pipe or coupler from the top of the aluminum and place an ordinary steel bolt inside the aluminum tube. I don't remember the size, but it will be in the area of 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8". With the bolt inside the aluminum tube you can then apply a pipe wrench to the aluminum tube without crushing the tube.

I had to use penetrating oil as well as apply heat from a propane torch to the steel threads below the aluminum tube. That stunk up our garage for the next two days. When I screwed in the new integral outlet tube/anode, I applied many wraps of teflon tape to the threads. I was happy we sold the house and moved to The Villages before it was time to again replace the anode in the Bradford White.

[Dave951]

Has anyone replaced there electric tank water heater with a on demand electric

[jrref]

I admit that changing the anode is a PITA (pain in the a**). Having done it 6 or 7 times, I've concluded that water heater manufacturers make the job hard so the homeowner won't bother. The tank will then rust through and the manufacturer will have another sale.

First, apply lots of penetrating oil around the head of the rod and let it sit overnight. The A.O. Smith tank in our house requires a 1&1/16 or 27mm socket. This large a socket has a 1/2" square drive. You will need a "breaker bar" of 18" minimum length. Be careful as you will be working on a stepladder. You may need to apply more penetrating oil and let it set another night. Don't despair as, eventually, it will come loose and you will experience a great deal of satisfaction in having done the job.

Interestingly, the job will be easier when you do the next replacement in 5 years because you will have wrapped the threads of the rod you put in place 5 years earlier with several wraps of teflon tape.

Replacing the anode in a Bradford White water heater is a real PITA. The anode is integral with the outlet tube in contrast to the Rheem, A.O. Smith and most other brands. The problem is that the top of the rod is aluminum while the threads are steel. You would need a special offset wrench or socket to the able to get a grip on the top of the steel. Instead, most people will put a pipe wrench of the aluminum tube which will then twist off or crush.

The trick with a Bradford White is to remove the flex pipe or coupler from the top of the aluminum and place an ordinary steel bolt inside the aluminum tube. I don't remember the size, but it will be in the area of 1/2", 9/16" or 5/8". With the bolt inside the aluminum tube you can then apply a pipe wrench to the aluminum tube without crushing the tube.

I had to use penetrating oil as well as apply heat from a propane torch to the steel threads below the aluminum tube. That stunk up our garage for the next two days. When I screwed in the new integral outlet tube/anode, I applied many wraps of teflon tape to the threads. I was happy we sold the house and moved to The Villages before it was time to again replace the anode in the Bradford White.

Thanks for the very accurate information. Yes, when I replaced my anode rod with the electronic type, my neighbors came over and using a breaker bar and all other types of tools we finally got the rod loose and out. This is why a plumber asks so much to do this service. It's not easy.

[jrref]

Has anyone replaced there electric tank water heater with a on demand electric

On demand electric is not very good compared to gas. Also, the amount of savings is so minimal that it's not worth the effort and cost. On demand is very good when you have many living in your home but here in the Villages, you only spend a couple hundred dollars a year to heat water so the savings, if any, are small.

[ithos]

I replaced my anode rod recently and flushed the tank. The water was very clear and the anode rod was mostly in tact.
I think it is a waste of money to replace a water tank if it is in good shape.
Highly recommend getting a steel drain pan. Can get one on Amazon for $40.
You will need an impact wrench and a very stable platform to stand on to replace the drain pan. I did it myself but you will need help unless you are in good shape.
Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ1K8XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCX882CV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)

[jrref]

I replaced my anode rod recently and flushed the tank. The water was very clear and the anode rod was mostly in tact.
I think it is a waste of money to replace a water tank if it is in good shape.
Highly recommend getting a stainless steel drain pan. Can get one on Amazon for $40.
You will need an impact wrench and a very stable platform to stand on to replace the drain pan. I did it myself but you will need help unless you are in good shape.
Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ1K8XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCX882CV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)

For those able to change the anode rod several of us have used this and it works well. You will need to run electric by your water heater but some have it already. You can always get an electrician to run a new outlet. Since your heater should be near the electric panel, the job shouldn't be too expensive.

Corro-Protec Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater, 20-Year Warranty, Eliminates Rotten Egg/Sulfur Smell within 24 hours, Stops Corrosion and Reduces Limescale, Electrical Anode Rod Made of Titanium - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Corro-ProtecTM-Eliminates-Corrosion-Limescale-Electrical/dp/B01H459TAK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=IMK1Y1RJOJXX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GHgiWo7a2I0Of5dWFWJpM8X-f7wDL63j8XkiZTIh0Rq60EM1nPod1160OCgRo3scJeaXMs85XE xxzQdbcafdVjs966SqjiOakYCvN3oCqnSIy-NO0MD6_vSam5JPJDgdplker3wmmDWo6AtrDp_aq_5KliIIVVOP CYwGkpt95sFoVmFLA9cMMSUh9o52RMrfdtTDkxZWTs7M5hwbvM J2SUkAG9q8T7wzBotjewviLSO85rHF7tNw5H6yhouAZ8ikZflV Io3CCTyXqqciw0WuyeXasrOI9TpBsFW5QjJizIE.NqSWO3Qpdk H9CfjcwP9VKJsz7ylYcDvf5pr0Dl1O0iM&dib_tag=se&keywords=electronic%2Banode%2Brod&qid=1749987903&s=hi&sprefix=electronic%2Banode%2Brod%2Ctools%2C111&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1)

[retiredguy123]

I replaced my anode rod recently and flushed the tank. The water was very clear and the anode rod was mostly in tact.
I think it is a waste of money to replace a water tank if it is in good shape.
Highly recommend getting a stainless steel drain pan. Can get one on Amazon for $40.
You will need an impact wrench and a very stable platform to stand on to replace the drain pan. I did it myself but you will need help unless you are in good shape.
Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJ1K8XL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title)
Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCX882CV?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1)
The link you provided is for a galvanized steel pan for $50, not stainless steel. What is wrong with the round plastic pan that the builder installs?

[retiredguy123]

Please describe your method of flushing your tank.
You can drain the water heater but you cannot actually "flush" it because the drain valve is way too small to get any flushing action. The Rheem manual doesn't recommend ever draining or flushing the entire tank. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start leaking because of lime deposits that accumulate in the valve. Personally, I don't think you will remove much of the sediment by draining the tank.

[ithos]

The link you provided is for a galvanized steel pan for $50, not stainless steel. What is wrong with the round plastic pan that the builder installs?

Sorry about that. You don't need SS since it should rarely be exposed to water. It would also be alot more expensive.

[ithos]

This is the $2 drain pan that Mike Scott Plumbing used when installing the water heater. It broke apart like peanut brittle. It was so small that I couldn't even connect a water hose to the bibb to drain it. Actually it probably cost $12 but still not the quality I would expect from a reputable company.

[ithos]

In case it hasn't already been brought up, you can get instant hot water much cheaper than installing a tankless water heater.
Watts Hot Water Recirculating Pump Installation
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=residential+hot+water+recircu lating+pump

It should also save money if you put a timer on it.

[ithos]

Fortunately I had a very strong table to set the water heater on. It was a little bit of effort to get it back in the pan but the sides of it were strong enough to support the weight when putting the water heater back in. I've couldn't have done that with plastic.

[Skip]

Thanks for the very accurate information. Yes, when I replaced my anode rod with the electronic type, my neighbors came over and using a breaker bar and all other types of tools we finally got the rod loose and out. This is why a plumber asks so much to do this service. It's not easy.

ANODE REMOVAL: Yes, penetrating oil on the top of the old rod, 24 hours prior, does help. Impact wrench is one way that works well. Long Breaker Bar plus a 2-3 foot piece of iron pipe over the handle gives you the extra leverage you need. The tank should be near full but not pressurized when you try to get the old one free. The weight helps stabilize the tank. The house water must be OFF. Drain a few ounces to eliminate the tank pressure. The old Anode will break free with moderate force at a 3 foot torque moment. Remove the old rod straight up carefully not to chip off any junky deposits. New simple Anodes are about $25 (some are 3 section flexible if you are too close to s ceiling) and come with the 27mm Socket and Teflon Tape. When applying Tape to the new threads, only cover the top half of the threads to allow the other threads to be grounded in the tank's threaded fitting. Tighten with a breaker bar and check for leaks there the next day.

FLUSHING: Turn the control to Pilot (Gas) or Off (Electric). Turn off the house water. Attach a garden hose to the drain and run it out to your driveway or other place where hot water won't matter. Open the drain fully - you may need a 7/16" socket if there is no knob. Crack open a faucet in your utility room to allow air in. The 40 gallons of hot water will drain in a few minutes. Close the faucet in the utility room. With the drain still open full, turn on the house water slowly. The cold water will fill and flush most of the sediment from inside the tank. Allow to run for a few minutes. Close the drain. Open the house water to full open. Open the utility room faucet very slowly to allow air to escape. Turn the control back to normal heat. Do this every 1-2 years and save a lot of money. Sediment is what makes that gurgling sound when the heater is running.

PAN: Every heater should be on a pan that drains to the outside of the house. Look in the pan at least once per week to make sure there is no water, signifying the hot water heater needs to be replaced. I have a battery operated wet alarm in my pan. If the tank leaks, the alarm will beep loudly and let me know, IT'S TIME !

Skip

[ithos]

If you are working by yourself and have never done it before, get the impact wrench(or rent one). It takes 1-2 seconds to come off. You are a master if you can remove it by your self with straps and torque wrenches. Even with a helper it will be a major hassle.

[Dexterconfetti]

I live north of 466A and I replaced every gas appliance I had with electric and I have not been disappointed. I especially like not having to pay the monthly TECO fee when I am out of town during the summer months.

[John Sarubbi]

We replaced our 40 gal with a 50 gal a few years ago for $1025.00 by Dove Plumbing of Wildwood, Fl. Did an excellent job and was much cheaper than all the plumbers trucks you see here in The Villages.

[New Englander]

We replaced our 40 gal with a 50 gal a few years ago for $1025.00 by Dove Plumbing of Wildwood, Fl. Did an excellent job and was much cheaper than all the plumbers trucks you see here in The Villages.

That was a few years ago. The price may have increased a bit.

[New Englander]

You can drain the water heater, but you cannot actually "flush" it because the drain valve is way too small to get any flushing action. The Rheem manual doesn't recommend ever draining or flushing the entire tank. Opening the drain valve can cause the valve to start leaking because of lime deposits that accumulate in the valve. Personally, I don't think you will remove much of the sediment by draining the tank.

Well, the tank I replaced yesterday was never drained and was not leaking Yet. The anode rod was original. Twelve years on a basic water heater is pretty darn good. The new tank is about the same as the original. The plumber did an excellent job as well. Nice and neat work and took the old tank away.

[ithos]

There are plenty of youtube videos that demonstrate how to replace a water heater. The one thing not mentioned is to support the pvc lines before disconnecting them. Most likely the damage would be inside the drywall.

[retiredguy123]

Well, the tank I replaced yesterday was never drained and was not leaking Yet. The anode rod was original. Twelve years on a basic water heater is pretty darn good. The new tank is about the same as the original. The plumber did an excellent job as well. Nice and neat work and took the old tank away.
Most people, including me, never do any maintenance on their water heater. Some people believe in draining the tank every year, and replacing the anode after 5 years or so. But, the manufacturers of these water heaters do not recommend this type of maintenance. I don't think that draining water through a tiny valve will remove enough sediment to do any good, and could actually cause the valve to leak, which would require replacing the valve. Replacing the valve could even cause damage to the tank. Most of the sediment will be caked onto the bottom of the tank and it will not drain out. Personally, I think it is a waste of time and money to try to extend the life of a relatively inexpensive appliance like a water heater. This is my opinion, but can make your own decision.

[ithos]

Most people, including me, never do any maintenance on their water heater. Some people believe in draining the tank every year, and replacing the anode after 5 years or so. But, the manufacturers of these water heaters do not recommend this type of maintenance. I don't think that draining water through a tiny valve will remove enough sediment to do any good, and could actually cause the valve to leak, which would require replacing the valve. Replacing the valve could even cause damage to the tank. Most of the sediment will be caked onto the bottom of the tank and it will not drain out. Personally, I think it is a waste of time and money to try to extend the life of a relatively inexpensive appliance like a water heater. This is my opinion, but can make your own decision.

Here is the recommendations from the manual:
At least once a year, lift and release the
lever handle on the temperature pressure
relief valve, located near the top of the
water heater, to make certain the valve
operates freely. Allow several gallons to
flush through the discharge line to an open
drain.
A water heater’s tank can act as a setting
basin for solids suspended in the water. It
is therefore not uncommon for hard water
deposits to accumulate in the bottom of the
tank. It is suggested that a few quarts of
water be drained from the water heater’s
tank every month to clean the tank of these
deposits.
-----
The anode rod should be removed from the
water heater’s tank annually for inspection
and replaced when more than 6″ of core
wire is exposed at either end of the rod.
Make sure the cold water supply is turned
off before removing anode rod.

Unfortunately you can not remove the anode rod in most houses because there is not enough overhead to remove it. It is probably best to remove it by cutting it in pieces and replace it with the segmented anode rods.

It was very negligent of the contractor to put in an undersized drain pan that is made of cheap plastic that degrades very rapidly. Do you have any idea of how much damage a water leak can cause if it is not contained? It also prevents conducting recommended maintenance whether it is performed by the homeowner or a technician. That includes draining it since you can not connect a hose to the bibb.

[retiredguy123]

Here is the recommendations from the manual:
At least once a year, lift and release the
lever handle on the temperature pressure
relief valve, located near the top of the
water heater, to make certain the valve
operates freely. Allow several gallons to
flush through the discharge line to an open
drain.
A water heater’s tank can act as a setting
basin for solids suspended in the water. It
is therefore not uncommon for hard water
deposits to accumulate in the bottom of the
tank. It is suggested that a few quarts of
water be drained from the water heater’s
tank every month to clean the tank of these
deposits.
-----
The anode rod should be removed from the
water heater’s tank annually for inspection
and replaced when more than 6″ of core
wire is exposed at either end of the rod.
Make sure the cold water supply is turned
off before removing anode rod.

Unfortunately you can not remove the anode rod in most houses because there is not enough overhead to remove it. It is probably best to remove it by cutting it in pieces and replace it with the segmented anode rods.

It was very negligent of the contractor to put in an undersized drain pan that is made of cheap plastic that degrades very rapidly. Do you have any idea of how much damage a water leak can cause if it is not contained? It also prevents conducting recommended maintenance whether it is performed by the homeowner or a technician. That includes draining it since you can not connect a hose to the bibb.
As I said, the manufacturer does not recommend that you ever drain the tank. They only "suggest" (not recommend) that you remove a few quarts of water every month. My guess is that almost no one follows that suggestion. I doubt that very many people would remove the anode rod annually to inspect it, even if there was space to remove it. My drain pan is plastic, it is 10 years old, and it still works fine. In The Villages, most water heaters are located in the garage near the garage door, so a leak probably would not cause major damage to the house. Also, if you hired a plumber to perform these maintenance tasks annually, you would spend way more money in 10 years than the water heater actually costs to replace.

[ithos]

As I said, the manufacturer does not recommend that you ever drain the tank. They only "suggest" (not recommend) that you remove a few quarts of water every month. My guess is that almost no one follows that suggestion. I doubt that very many people would remove the anode rod annually to inspect it, even if there was space to remove it. My drain pan is plastic, it is 10 years old, and it still works fine. In The Villages, most water heaters are located in the garage near the garage door, so a leak probably would not cause major damage to the house. Also, if you hired a plumber to perform these maintenance tasks annually, you would spend way more money in 10 years than the water heater actually costs to replace.

I concur with some of your thoughts but a professional company would ensure that the prescribed PMs would be able to be performed. In some cases a warranty may not be honored if the recommened PM schedule was not adhered to.

Maybe a uncontrolled leak near an interior wall doesn't concern you but it does me.
As far as the rest is concerned, best let the professionals explain it.
Benefits Of Flushing Your Water Heater | First Choice Plumbing (https://www.fccomfort.com/understanding-the-benefits-of-flushing-your-water-heater/)

[retiredguy123]

I concur with some of your thoughts but a professional company would ensure that the prescribed PMs would be able to be performed. In some cases a warranty may not be honored if the recommened PM schedule was not adhered to.

Maybe a uncontrolled leak near an interior wall doesn't concern you but it does me.
As far as the rest is concerned, best let the professionals explain it.
Benefits Of Flushing Your Water Heater | First Choice Plumbing (https://www.fccomfort.com/understanding-the-benefits-of-flushing-your-water-heater/)
Thanks for your comments. I would just add that my water heater is not located near an interior wall. One side is adjacent to the garage door and the other side is adjacent to the exterior wall to the front porch. A leak would not cause any damage to the interior of the house. I would also take issue with anyone who claims that they can "flush" out the sediment through the drain valve. The drain valve only has about a quarter inch or less of free area for water to flow through, and much of the sediment will be clumped together inside of the tank. If the manufacturer intended for the tank to be flushed, they would need to provide a much larger valve for flushing. You can drain the tank, but you cannot flush it out. I don't think that the typical homeowner does any maintenance on their water heater. This makes sense to me because the water heater will last at least 10 years with no maintenence, and it is one of the least expensive appliances in your house, about the same cost as a microwave oven.

[cahvillage]

[I used TECO, the gas company and they just added $15.99 a month on my bill. The cost is $979.00 until it is paid for.

[jrref]

Thanks for your comments. I would just add that my water heater is not located near an interior wall. One side is adjacent to the garage door and the other side is adjacent to the exterior wall to the front porch. A leak would not cause any damage to the interior of the house. I would also take issue with anyone who claims that they can "flush" out the sediment through the drain valve. The drain valve only has about a quarter inch or less of free area for water to flow through, and much of the sediment will be clumped together inside of the tank. If the manufacturer intended for the tank to be flushed, they would need to provide a much larger valve for flushing. You can drain the tank, but you cannot flush it out. I don't think that the typical homeowner does any maintenance on their water heater. This makes sense to me because the water heater will last at least 10 years with no maintenence, and it is one of the least expensive appliances in your house, about the same cost as a microwave oven.

Basically, I agree with what your are saying for an older tank that's never been maintained but if you start flushing out a brand new tank after the first year and every year after, you won't have that flood of sediment that you are talking about. Also, with an electric tank, if really doesn't matter how much sediment is on the bottom of the tank as long as it doesn't build up to where it reaches the lower heating element. Sediment mainly effects the efficiency of a gas hot water tank since it will coat and insulate the bottom of the tank blocking some of the heat from the gas below.

In your case, since the tank is by the garage door and there is nothing to hurt if and when it leaks, I would get the cheapest tank I can get installed and when it leaks just turn off the water, cut the feed pipes, drain the tank and kick it to the curb for special pickup to get. Then get another cheap one. That will be the most cost effective for someone in your situation. For everyone else who has to worry about water damage, best to get a reliable tank. Also, I'm not sure if any of you had this happen yet but my home insurance company wanted proof of when my hot water heater was installed. They wouldn't renew if the tank was too old. So, that eliminates keeping your tank for more than 10 years depending on your insurer.