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billethkid
01-25-2013, 02:56 PM
When I opened the closet in the garage where the hot water tank is, I noticed that water was leaking from the pressure valve (outside the tank near the top with a little lever on it).

I tripped the pressure valve and it slowed the flow to a trickle. The original flow was maybe 5-6 times the flow.

What causes this to happen? Water too hot? Tank starting to die (not quite 9 years old)?

btk

chuckinca
01-25-2013, 03:27 PM
Could be it needs a new $15 or so PRV.

Turning the water temp setting down may help.

Could be your water supply pressure is too high, check it and if over 80 PSI or so install a PRV on the main water supply. (We had a house with incoming city water pressure that sometimes hit 230 PSI when the city was filling the water storage tank near us - they also blew pipelines in the street a couple times a year)


.

jimbo2012
01-25-2013, 05:03 PM
Just change out the that little part takes 5 minutes, HD or Ace has them.

If U don't they continue to leak

DangeloInspections
01-25-2013, 05:22 PM
Another common reason for this is perhaps a waterlogged thermal expansion tank. This is the tank that is installed just above your hot water tank. Not all homes have this, but many do. If that tank has a worn or bad bladder inside, it can become waterlogged and no longer expands properly for expansion.
One way to check this is to "tap" the tank...the lower part (if installed with nipple down) should sound solid, indicating water in the tank, while the top part should sound hallow indicated proper air in the top.
If it sounds the same it usually indicates a bad bladder. Sometimes, but not often you could have a bad shrader valve on the tank and if you know what you are doing you can try to add some air to the proper psi to see if that helps. Usually you just turn off the tank, drain down the tank a bit, (never below the elements if electric) and replace the expansion tank. The cost of a new expansion tank is usually around $50.
If any of this sounds confusing, one would want to call a licensed Plumber.

Hope this helps, Frank D'Angelo

jimbo2012
01-25-2013, 05:30 PM
Hey Frank never knew that, tks

DangeloInspections
01-25-2013, 05:57 PM
Always glad to help.
Sometimes folks are quick to assume the T & P valve is bad, when actually it is doing it's proper job. If the Thermal Expansion tank is waterlogged the expanding water has no place to go and the relief valve will open just a bit to allow it to escape.

If a person is going to change out the expansion tank and needs to partially drain down the tank anyway, it is good practice to also replace the "leaking"
T & P valve also, as repeated opening can weaken the spring and seals inside. The cost is not much more. When doing so make sure you buy the correct rating T & P valve, as Watts makes many different types and it is easy to buy the wrong one as many will "fit" but only one will be correct. Take a picture of the tag or just bring the old one with you to make sure.......

Frank D'Angelo

villages07
01-25-2013, 06:02 PM
Always glad to help.
Sometimes folks are quick to assume the T & P valve is bad, when actually it is doing it's proper job. If the Thermal Expansion tank is waterlogged the expanding water has no place to go and the relief valve will open just a bit to allow it to escape.

If a person is going to change out the expansion tank and needs to partially drain down the tank anyway, it is good practice to also replace the "leaking"
T & P valve also, as repeated opening can weaken the spring and seals inside. The cost is not much more. When doing so make sure you buy the correct rating T & P valve, as Watts makes many different types and it is easy to buy the wrong one as many will "fit" but only one will be correct. Take a picture of the tag or just bring the old one with you to make sure.......

Frank D'Angelo

Frank.... exactly what happened to us. Replaced the TP valve and that did not fully fix the problem. It was the thermal expansion tank...it was listing off to the side since it was full of water. House was about six years old...many of these blue tanks have had the bladder bust at 5-7 years. Newer tanks are good for 7+ years.

784caroline
01-26-2013, 10:30 AM
My water tank was just leaking via the Pressure Relief Valve and I had a plumber come out. $130-150 for a new expansion tank and labor.

jimbo2012
01-26-2013, 11:31 AM
did he put in a new expansion valve also for that price?

784caroline
01-26-2013, 06:43 PM
No did not need it

rhood
04-25-2013, 11:07 AM
I have the same problem. Relief valve leaks maybe a quart a week. I replaced the valve and turned the temp down to 120F. Still leaks. System pressure is 60psi. I cycled the washer and when the solenoid closed, the pressure spiked to over 80psi. But the valve is rated to 150psi?

I tapped the tank and it sounded that it was full to the top. I will bleed the system and try to pressurize the tank with my compressor. What should the pressure be? System pressure or some other?

KeepingItReal
04-25-2013, 03:58 PM
I have the same problem. Relief valve leaks maybe a quart a week. I replaced the valve and turned the temp down to 120F. Still leaks. System pressure is 60psi. I cycled the washer and when the solenoid closed, the pressure spiked to over 80psi. But the valve is rated to 150psi?

I tapped the tank and it sounded that it was full to the top. I will bleed the system and try to pressurize the tank with my compressor. What should the pressure be? System pressure or some other?

Info here:

Adjusting the Pre-Charge of a Thermal Expansion Tank - YouTube


You can get the pressure testers at Lowe's and Home Depot, less than $10.00...

rubicon
04-25-2013, 04:05 PM
Another common reason for this is perhaps a waterlogged thermal expansion tank. This is the tank that is installed just above your hot water tank. Not all homes have this, but many do. If that tank has a worn or bad bladder inside, it can become waterlogged and no longer expands properly for expansion.
One way to check this is to "tap" the tank...the lower part (if installed with nipple down) should sound solid, indicating water in the tank, while the top part should sound hallow indicated proper air in the top.
If it sounds the same it usually indicates a bad bladder. Sometimes, but not often you could have a bad shrader valve on the tank and if you know what you are doing you can try to add some air to the proper psi to see if that helps. Usually you just turn off the tank, drain down the tank a bit, (never below the elements if electric) and replace the expansion tank. The cost of a new expansion tank is usually around $50.
If any of this sounds confusing, one would want to call a licensed Plumber.

Hope this helphe thermal tanks, Frank D'Angelo


The thermal tank was my problem and replacing it solved the problem