And that's why I never go look in my attic

Instead of lag bolts or wood screws, I recommend Fasten Master HeadLOK Structural Screws. They are slim, but as strong as a 3/8” lag screw, and the recommended product for the past five years. They are expensive, but worth it. They are MUCH stronger than drywall screws. They come in a variety of lengths, including screws that will go through a “sister” on each side of the break. Available at Lowe’s or Home Depot. I recommend clamping the sisters to the king stud before screwing. https://www.lowes.com/pd/FastenMaste...-Count/3446730

However, as you noticed, the truss plate has come loose on one side (see photo). Look carefully and you’ll see that someone has tried to hammer it back into place already. But they don’t hammer! You can’t hammer them back in that way. In truss factories trusses are made in big forms, and there are pneumatic clamps that press those plates into place. Once they have popped loose, they won’t work. (Well, not with a hammer. You might be able to use a block of plywood and several big clamps and tighten them into place.) If I were doing the work myself, in my own home, I would use a foot square piece of 3/4” plywood. Trim the top to fit the roof slope, and nail it into place with at least a dozen 2 1/2” joist hanger nails—after removing the useless trust plate. This is called a gusset, I think, and they have been used for centuries.

roofing
 

Hi

Call McHale Roofing and ask for Matt , he will come by and check it out for you .

He is not a rip of merchant , he will advise what he thinks is best and leave for you to decide what you want to do .

If it makes you feel better scab another 2x4 to the other side.
County building inspector approved as is.
Kind of chintzy of the builder not to swap out during construction.
Florida snow load requirements=0

You’re talking about a potential major structural component of a home, not a jammed garbage disposal. By all means the OP can do whatever they want. My only point was that if they take advice which is not prudent, and later has an issue, it’s all on them. Read some of the other posts which agree with my point. Hire a pro, get it done right, and if there’s an issue down the road, they will have recourse.

Think about your safety, roofers safety, and what will it look like to a potential buyer. Holes drilled in wood weaken wood. It's like several door locks weaken the wood and makes it easier to bust a door down.

I would agree with everything MondoMan and what some others have said. The repair already there appears substandard. It is easy to say, "consult a structural engineer", but the reality is that they are busy and most likely not even bother with a little job like this. Perhaps some retired Structural engineer may help, but in this case a well built repair, using a plywood gusset and sistering a 2x4 along the cracked webbing should be more than adequate, IMHO.

Technically, most, (but not all) truss repairs have to be approved by the truss company truss engineer. They design and print out their remedy, and that is filed with your county building department. There ARE a few minor truss repairs that ARE allowed on site during the build...this is not one of them.

The good news is that your home is 16 years old and you have suffered no ill effects from this issue. What could be a problem however is if down the road you sell your home and the buyer hires an Inspector and that Inspector calls this out as an issue, now it becomes your problem.

This is why the documentation from a structural engineer can be important. If this comes up down the road, you can say, "No problem....here is a document from an engineer stating the proper repair was done according to his or her specifications".

We do mainly one year warranty inspections on new houses. We find and document broken trusses at least 1 or more times a week on new homes. We first look at the Sumter county website to see if there WAS a permit for a truss repair. Then we include pictures, etc., in the report to have the builder do two things, fix the truss according to the truss engineer's instructions, AND provide the homeowner with the needed paperwork so it does not become an issue down the road.

If you have ever seen how these trusses get delivered, you can easily understand how they become broken. They are rolled off a flatbed truck onto the ground. The good news is that if one or more DO get damaged, the repair, done correctly, is usually much stronger than the unbroken trusses.

Hope this helps!

Thanks to all of you
 

Thanks - no roof sagging, no other apparent damage, just the truss. I'm having someone look at it next week.
By the way - you can get decent advice from this site, and you do get plenty of retired professionals who are willing to give you some good thoughts. Stop sniping at each other, and relax here in "Florida's Friendliest Hometown".
Thanks again for all the info.
IndianaJones

Put on new 2x4 and through bolt them together

Why did the county building inspector sign off on the rough in?

How do you know which of these people is competent and knows the proper thing to do?

Sort of spooky. They sure don't do things as they used to be. Our previous home was built in 1948. You probably couldn't even buy the lumber used. Even 2x4s were bigger as well as being non farm raised wood. Underlayment to the roof were tung and grooved boards not glued together wood chips. Damaged wood? It was cut into smaller pieces used in the home and the damaged parts were trashed.

Excellent suggestion, but I would start by calling the Home Warranty Department, as mentioned earlier.

Another good example of poor workmanship and/or ?able inspections in TV. I cringe every-time someone comes out to do work on my house. Had a ceiling fan moved. Per my electrician, installer mounted ceiling fan box on the drywall and roof truss was inches away.

IMO That looks like failure at knot in low grade 2x4 to me. ( look at grain) Big knots weaken the load carry board. I know how I would fix it and never know it was there.