:BigApplause::BigApplause::bigbow:

My new Tacoma has a freaking canister filter ! 1966 anyone ?


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One of my cars specifies 0W-20. Mobil1 is $25 for 5 quarts. It doesn't consume any oil between changes. If you want to use a thicker oil, use 0W-30.

This is Florida, we don’t need to use 0W anything.


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There is logic in going with 0W-X oil regardless of where you live: better flow at startup. Deviating from the second number (operational or 100C viscosity) is harder to justify. I tend to stay with the manufacturer's recommendation as they know more about their product than I do.

0W-X will not flow at 0W for long at a 70 deg ambient. It will default to X.


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I owned a 2014 suburu outback that would consume 2 qts 0W-20 between oil changes. ****ed me off. Switched to 5W-30, half qt. was consumed which meant I didn’t have to check it every 3 weeks.


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Mercedes oil change
 

Owned a 2006 Pilot, required 0W-20. 2005 Pilot required 5W-30. Same engine, same tolerances.
Drove the 2006 to 234,000 miles on 5W-30. No problems. That was living in the NE.

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Mercedes oil change
 

Now I have a 2017 Mazda, requires 0W-20. Has burned a quarter qt. in 5K miles. Will switch to 5W-30 for its first oil change. Guaranteed I’ll burn zero oil between changes.
This whole 0W-20 nonsense is meant to increase the fleet mpg, but it will decrease the life of the engine. But since most of us won’t drive 400,000 miles on one engine, it’s moot. I just hate watching the oil level decrease substantially between oil changes. It’s goes against my grain to open a qt. of synthetic just to top off the level.



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Always use a shop that has experience with German cars like All German Motorworks or AutoMasters.

The 3 Rules for Mercedes:
1. Always use Mercedes OEM/Approved parts and fluids.
1. Always use Mercedes OEM/Approved parts and fluids.
3. There are no exceptions to 1 and 2.

Use Textar epad brake pads. They take a few hundred miles to beak-in but then have tenacious cold/hot grip, superior longevity, and no brake dust.

I have requested a numver of times to TV to build a car service center with a couple of bays for us doityourselfers. Charge maybe $5/hr for bays/lift to pay for a expert/safety guy to help with tire change/balance equipment and such. If more DIYers (I am sure there are MANY) make that request, they might just do it regardless of liability concerns.

Always use straight sae 30 in your golf carts down here in Florida. Walmart usually carries Delo and Rotella 30 but if not, their 10w30 will do.

"X" is the viscosity at 100 C (212 F).
The lower number matters for cold startup, even if it is 70F. Yes, the engine will warm up more quickly in FL then more northern climates and the operating temperature viscosity will then matter.

I have had several cars that specified 0W-20 and they didn't burn any oil. Any speculation on the impact on engine life is just that: speculation. If you can't run a controlled experiment and actually prove the hypothesis then you are simply guessing. Do what you want but I prefer to follow the manufacturer's recommendation as they know more than me.

This is not good advice. If you have a Yamaha golf cart the manufacturer specifies 10W-30. Straight weight 30 oil will have essentially the same viscosity at operating temperature as 10W-30 but will not flow (splash) as well at cold startup. Use a quality 10W-30 and change it frequently. According to Yamaha, every 1250 miles. This will be around every 75 hours of running time.

If you are going to make a change you would be better off with 0W-30. There is a reason they didn't specify 5W-20. The reason is that 0W-whatever is a better choice.

New cars may consume some oil initially. Switching to 5W-30 makes sense if you were to see continue oil consumption. Any oil consumption would be related to the operating temperature viscosity (the second number). Switching to 0W-30 would make more sense unless you wanted to use Mobil1 EP, since it is not available in 0W-30 but is available in 5W-30.