Cart Oil Change

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  #16  
Old 07-26-2018, 06:59 AM
JerryP JerryP is offline
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Originally Posted by jchase View Post
Also, there has been a lot of controversy on this. I texted a Yamaha technician about the use of Synthetic oil. He stated NO! It is a splash oil system and synthetic oil is to thin. Use 10 w 30 oil for our climate here in Florida. I change mine every six months.
I agree, especially since my 2014 Yamaha manual specifically states the recommended oil as “YAMALUBE 4-cycle oil or SAE 10W30”. No mention of Synthetic oil.
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:52 AM
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There is no controversy about the use of synthetics. The manual states 10w-30 with an API Service rating of SE, SF, or SG. These are old API Service ratings and virtually any oil, synthetic or conventional, easily meets these ratings. As long as the oil meets the multigrade specification (10w-30) and the API Service rating, it is fine. There is a reason there are industry standards.

So why use synthetics ? Oil has two components: the base oil and the additive package. The synthetic base oils can typically deliver multigrade viscosity ranges without the viscosity index improvers and pour point depressants required in conventional oil additive packages. When these additives are depleted, the operating temperature viscosity will decrease and the cold temperature viscosity will increase in conventional oils. Synthetics, on the other hand, will better retain their original viscosity and provide better protection as the oil ages.

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Originally Posted by JerryP View Post
I agree, especially since my 2014 Yamaha manual specifically states the recommended oil as “YAMALUBE 4-cycle oil or SAE 10W30”. No mention of Synthetic oil.

Last edited by biker1; 07-26-2018 at 11:00 AM.
  #18  
Old 07-27-2018, 07:30 AM
jpvillager jpvillager is offline
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Agree. Be sure to change the washer every time.
  #19  
Old 07-27-2018, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JerryP View Post
I agree, especially since my 2014 Yamaha manual specifically states the recommended oil as “YAMALUBE 4-cycle oil or SAE 10W30”. No mention of Synthetic oil.
Naturally the Yamaha manual going to recommend yamalube, as far as I know Yamaha don't refine crude oil? Probably shell, Mobil, or any other leading refinery. But, they get to add their Name, dictate the specifications, and up the price. IMO yamalube will get just as dirty with containments as other leading brands. So, if you don't change and check it regularly (regularly matter of opinion??) it will wear out just the same with yamalube.
  #20  
Old 09-21-2018, 11:51 AM
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Agree. Be sure to change the washer every time.
Why? Mine soft metal washer and not crush asbestos filled gasket. So far I have tore it up or have even drop of oil around the plug it tighten properly?
  #21  
Old 09-21-2018, 12:09 PM
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Why? Mine soft metal washer and not crush asbestos filled gasket. So far I have tore it up or have even drop of oil around the plug it tighten properly?
The soft aluminum washer is considered a one time use "crush" washer.
You are right, if you are careful and not over tighten the plug, you don't need to replace it and it won't leak.
I change mine as it's included in the maintenance kit I use.
Yamaha Golf Cart Factory Tune up kit
  #22  
Old 10-01-2018, 05:27 PM
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where do you buy the O RING?
  #23  
Old 10-01-2018, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by geod View Post
where do you buy the O RING?
Yamaha G2-G29/ DRIVE Oil Drain Plug Gasket (For Gas Carts) | Golf Cart Tire Supply

or Google - crush washer for yamaha golf cart
  #24  
Old 10-01-2018, 05:59 PM
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Over 15 oil changes on my Yamaha. Never changed the gasket. No leaks if you do it right and don’t over tighten.
  #25  
Old 10-01-2018, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhood View Post
Over 15 oil changes on my Yamaha. Never changed the gasket. No leaks if you do it right and don’t over tighten.
  #26  
Old 10-02-2018, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by geod View Post
where do you buy the O RING?

O ring? usually Rubber or neoprene material. depending on what year or model you may have O-ring instead of the soft metal washer? For that you can get assortment of several sized at auto parts stores/harbor freight/big box stores, and I think even at Walmart? For the Soft Metal washer you will have to find OEM parts supplier. It's really not Crush gasket but soft metal washer. You really have to try to destroy it for it not to re-seal. The main thing that damages the washer and threads in the block is way over torqueing or cross threading it and driving it in with wrench. It should spin freely all the way down and then slight tighten or recommended torque with a Torque wrench preferably Inch pounds torque wrench.

You ask Why inch pounds? Torque wrenches are calibrated plus or minus 1. so difference between the two would be 11 inch pounds. which shouldn't make difference unless the foot pounds torque wrench is out of calibration? Inch pound torque wrenches are more actuate when compared to Foot pounds torque wrench due to the finer Calibration specs.
  #27  
Old 10-02-2018, 02:30 PM
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OEM part#812-11198-00

812-11198-00 - Google Search

oil plug washer

Carts & Clubs Ocala carries them. Villages GC may also

The washer is hollow, and meant to "crush" when tightened.
Use care when tightening, and you won't need to replace every oil change.
  #28  
Old 10-02-2018, 05:08 PM
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I have had no problem reusing the washer, but I also put a small amount of teflon pipe joint paste on the threads of the plug, and a little bit of the paste on the back surface of the head as well as the surface of the washer that contacts the block. With the teflon paste, the plug never seizes up.
  #29  
Old 10-03-2018, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob47 View Post
I have had no problem reusing the washer, but I also put a small amount of teflon pipe joint paste on the threads of the plug, and a little bit of the paste on the back surface of the head as well as the surface of the washer that contacts the block. With the teflon paste, the plug never seizes up.
There is a reason for the crush washer vs using Teflon tape. The heat that can be generated at the bottom of the oil pan could exceed the temperature of the Teflon tape specs. Probably wouldn't under normal use unless oil was low and excessive heat was generated. If it does there could be two issues. It gets in the oil, probably not a big issue as it would be such a small amount, and it could start to leak, bigger issue. Teflon tape is great for water lines, even hot water lines, but I would be cautious using it on engine parts. A new crush washer every time it looks really crushed and some oil on the threads should work just fine. Specs claim 260 degrees, but have seen it fall apart at boiling temperature.
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  #30  
Old 10-03-2018, 07:51 AM
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has anyone tried changing oil on a new yamaha 2018 "quiet-tech" I was told that they now siphon the oil out because of the full length plastic cover they added under the cart ??
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