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  #11  
Old 07-25-2018, 08:17 AM
NoMoSno NoMoSno is offline
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Yamaha recommends Yamalube which is a semi-synthetic.

  #12  
Old 07-25-2018, 09:32 AM
biker1 biker1 is offline
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You can use 10w-30 synthetic just fine. 10w-30, what Yamaha specifies, has the same cold (the "10" number) and same hot (the "30" number) viscosity (+/- within the API standards) whether it is synthetic or conventional oil. Considering that synthetic is better at maintaining it's viscosity than conventional oil, I am not sure why anyone would choose not to use synthetic.

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Originally Posted by jchase View Post
Also, there has been a lot of controversy on this. I texted a Yamaha technician about the use of Synthetic oil. He stated NO! It is a splash oil system and synthetic oil is to thin. Use 10 w 30 oil for our climate here in Florida. I change mine every six months.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2018, 09:38 AM
biker1 biker1 is offline
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Yamalube Friction Modified Shaft Drive Gear Oil. You will need 2 quarts. The Villages Golf Cart Store has a good price. It is easy to change - just take off the plastic cover on the back of the cart where the golf bags sit.

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Originally Posted by bob47 View Post
If you have a newer Yamaha with an internal brake, it requires a friction modified gear oil in the transaxle. What gear oil do you use?
  #14  
Old 07-25-2018, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob47 View Post
If you have a newer Yamaha with an internal brake, it requires a friction modified gear oil in the transaxle. What gear oil do you use?
Yamaha friction modified oil. Yes, mine has internal rear brakes. Changed it about 4 years and 8k miles. In my case it wasn't that bad, but didn't want to let it go after 4 years. Sumter landing golf cart store reasonably priced. Just pull the back cover off remove the drain and fill plug and refill. If I remember correctly it 3/8" racket/breaker bar slot.

Last edited by Topspinmo; 07-25-2018 at 11:22 AM.
  #15  
Old 07-25-2018, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by tophcfa View Post
If you change your own oil, just be very careful not to over tighten the oil drain plug. The plug is made out of steel, but the engine block is made out of aluminum. The steel plug is much stronger than aluminum and can easily strip the threads out of the engine block. Trust me on this, I did it! After having to put a heli-coil into the engine block to accept a newer and larger oil drain plug, I wished I didn't try to save a couple dollars and had the oil changed by a professional. I did not do this on our golf cart, but on my Yamaha Grizzly 550 ATV at our home up north. In the Villages, we have Todd Casey come to our house and service the carts for us with no worries and at a very reasonable price. I still change the oil myself on my Nissan Truck, my wife's Honda CRV, and our daughters Subaru, but always use a new washer on the drain plug and am very careful not to over tighten. Wrench on!
Sorry for you're problem. Some of us been mechanics for long time know what tight is based on size and materials. For those less knowledgeable it best to invest in torque wrench and use it on critical parts.
  #16  
Old 07-26-2018, 06:59 AM
JerryP JerryP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchase View Post
Also, there has been a lot of controversy on this. I texted a Yamaha technician about the use of Synthetic oil. He stated NO! It is a splash oil system and synthetic oil is to thin. Use 10 w 30 oil for our climate here in Florida. I change mine every six months.
I agree, especially since my 2014 Yamaha manual specifically states the recommended oil as “YAMALUBE 4-cycle oil or SAE 10W30”. No mention of Synthetic oil.
  #17  
Old 07-26-2018, 08:52 AM
biker1 biker1 is offline
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There is no controversy about the use of synthetics. The manual states 10w-30 with an API Service rating of SE, SF, or SG. These are old API Service ratings and virtually any oil, synthetic or conventional, easily meets these ratings. As long as the oil meets the multigrade specification (10w-30) and the API Service rating, it is fine. There is a reason there are industry standards.

So why use synthetics ? Oil has two components: the base oil and the additive package. The synthetic base oils can typically deliver multigrade viscosity ranges without the viscosity index improvers and pour point depressants required in conventional oil additive packages. When these additives are depleted, the operating temperature viscosity will decrease and the cold temperature viscosity will increase in conventional oils. Synthetics, on the other hand, will better retain their original viscosity and provide better protection as the oil ages.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryP View Post
I agree, especially since my 2014 Yamaha manual specifically states the recommended oil as “YAMALUBE 4-cycle oil or SAE 10W30”. No mention of Synthetic oil.

Last edited by biker1; 07-26-2018 at 11:00 AM.
  #18  
Old 07-27-2018, 07:30 AM
jpvillager jpvillager is offline
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Agree. Be sure to change the washer every time.
  #19  
Old 07-27-2018, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryP View Post
I agree, especially since my 2014 Yamaha manual specifically states the recommended oil as “YAMALUBE 4-cycle oil or SAE 10W30”. No mention of Synthetic oil.
Naturally the Yamaha manual going to recommend yamalube, as far as I know Yamaha don't refine crude oil? Probably shell, Mobil, or any other leading refinery. But, they get to add their Name, dictate the specifications, and up the price. IMO yamalube will get just as dirty with containments as other leading brands. So, if you don't change and check it regularly (regularly matter of opinion??) it will wear out just the same with yamalube.
  #20  
Old 09-21-2018, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpvillager View Post
Agree. Be sure to change the washer every time.
Why? Mine soft metal washer and not crush asbestos filled gasket. So far I have tore it up or have even drop of oil around the plug it tighten properly?
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