That is possible.

I would take it to a trusted mechanic and hook it up to the OBD scanner.
See if any obvious codes could be causing the issue. It should show if a PCV valve may need replacing.
Burning that much oil will clog the Cat in no time.

If that is the plug-in connection under the steering wheel, it was done, but no indication of a PCV problem. The mechanic who did the computer check said that it could be one of 3 problems costing between $400 and $2000 and that he needed to keep the vehicle for an entire day. It seems to me that the fancy computer gizmo would have suggested that the oil level be checked or that the mechanic could have figured that out himself. It wasn't until he reset the check engine light and I drove away that the red oil pressure light came on. At that point, I checked the oil level, but I only looked at one side of the dipstick, which indicated that there was plenty of oil. So, I took the car to Firestone and the guy knew immediately that the oil level was low, he changed the oil, and the problem was solved. Go figure. What I learned is that you need to check the oil often and you need to examine both sides of the dipstick. I do not know how the oil level got so low, but I have never had this issue with any vehicle I have owned.

Money for nothing i
 

i know a guy who returned his 2017 ford escape and got a new engine block from key scales ford leesburg. it was covered under a recall. It was running rough and burning oil. Suggest you let them look at it. You got nothing to lose. If it's not covered under a recall you can always walk out. No harm in asking.

Yes.
Keep an eye on the oil level.
It could be just a fluke (last oil change wasn't filled properly)?

Drips and smoke are not the only signs of oil leak. Current autos:

2003 Chrys TC minivan - 204352 mileage, no oil drips on floor, but minor drops from seal that burns off within seconds of squeezing out of engine periodically, change every 7k and never seen a loss on stick.

2010 Mercedes 350 - 289458 mileage, oil drips constant, change every 7k and always see a loss on stick. Oil burns off on back of engine from seal, what does not burn off, works it's way along the undercarriage shield and collects dirt until it's almost a solid in the rear of the shield back by rear tires. Usually drops off in big chunks when we hit a large bump like a cow patty if I don't get to it during a lift inspection.

2019 Hyund Sonata - 125234 mileage, no constant oil drips, but minor drops burn off on engine, change every 7k and never seen a loss on stick.

A quart of oil every 1k is unacceptable, every 5,000 or 10k is unacceptable for any engine that you would consider reliable.

NOTICED that you
Failed to Mention “SUBARU”

Typically the HIGHEST RATING in
Consumer Reports year after year,

and also Known to be Driven the
LONGEST with the MOST MILEAGE

and RECENTLY LEARNED that
the SUBARU Company Maintains
Superior Safety Standards over the
other Automotive Manufacturers.

Here’s pretty basic information on how to check oil, when check oil, and oil change intervals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9-YT9RiM84

Subaru’s have had engine problems in pass just like other brands boxer engines are extremely hard to work on when the do have problems.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMJMu2S9NMc&t=646s

Florida has such great humidity and that humid, water filled air can get into a cars crankcase where it has an ADVERSE effect on the oil. The oil and water mix and then the combustion process in the cylinders causes both OIL and WATER to end up going out of the exhaust system. A person that starts and stops driving after a short distance would intensify this water in the oil problem.

If your mechanic told you that, you'd better find a new one.

None of my cars ever used that much oil between oil changes, something is seriously wrong here.

That is STRANGE. As a general rule, newer cars should burn less oil than older cars. You could look on the internet for people with your same year and model of vehicle and see what they are saying about oil consumption. Also remember that stop traffic is hard on a car because idling is harder on a car than long distance driving. So, there are a lot of variables including drivers - some are fond of heavy accelerating from a stop light. Others slowly move up to the speed limit. So, driver individuality can affect oil burning.

I used to have a Ford station wagon. I finally just had to get rid of it because the headliner fell apart. It had 234,000 miles and just wouldn't die.

I agree with everything that you said, especially the idea of checking the tailpipe for excessive oil burning. My humble opinion is that in Florida, I am not sold on multiple weight oils. They are fine for up North, but in Florida I prefer a straight weight 30W oil.

If not already said, did you check the oil after the oil change or trust the mechanic? I would refill to full and recheck often until you know the true baseline.

Ok, now I am curious. Instead of just an overall criticism of my post. Please go further and dissect (preferably sentence by sentence) what you believe to be incorrect statements.

I usually do, but I cannot say for sure. It is possible that he didn't fill it properly.

Did you actually ever check the oil before
 

Another possible explanation is that it was never filled properly or full to begin with

If you think about it you should be checking it once a month for the next few months to see how it is filled up.

And honestly both sides of the stick should show the same exact amount. You're supposed to wipe off the stick first and put it back in
Before you actually check it.

I always wipe off the dipstick completely. But apparently, sometimes you will get some oil on one side of the stick when you slide it in. That is why, you need to look at both sides of the stick.

The OP brought back some memories. I bought a brand new 1979 L82 Corvette. For whatever reason, its dipstick never clearly showed the oil level in the engine. It would just come out with an indefinite coating of oil after I had extracted and wiped it, then reinserted it. Back then I changed the oil myself so I took care to measure how much oil I poured into the crankcase after draining it. As I changed the oil fairly frequently I never had a problem, accumulating many miles over seven years as I frequently drove it back and forth between Los Alamos and Albuquerque. I sold it for $600 less than I had paid for it at the dealer.

I bought a 2016 BMW X5 xDrive50i new and because it was serviced by the local dealer under warranty never paid much attention to checking the oil. After a few months I planned to take a long trip and thought I ought to check the oil. I looked under the hood but could not find a dipstick! So I went to the internet and found oil level was electronically monitored and used the instructions in the owner's manual to check the oil. I still own the vehicle and it has never needed oil added between 10,000 mile oil changes. My 2023 X5 M50i has no dipstick but at least I expected that. How does one check the oil level if the battery is dead? lol

A friend of mine had a 1964 Dodge Hemi back in the day. It went through a quart of oil every 500 miles.

I read a lot of automotive articles, and every auto manufacturer has a lemon model(s). A quick search shows that the 2017 Escape is known for using oil, sometimes a lot of oil. Before purchasing a new or used vehicle, spend some time doing internet searches and buy Consumer Reports annual buyers guide. Some models of cars have a few years where there were numerous problems and other years where they are quite reliable. The Ford Bronco Sport had a number of recalls in just it's first year of production. All the auto manufacturers have recalled thousands and thousands of cars in the last couple years.

That’s exactly why we are fully ev as of 2017
Rivian PU, bolt, Kona, and Ioniq in family .
Last straw was oil indicator on Benz Sprinter in 2018 said ‘one qt low’
It’s was a diesel w/14 qt sump capacity a
- one qt low 6 miles from hone no biggie.then 3 miles our 2 qt low, still no biggie.
200 yards away the freak show started with never-before-heard noise.
Next day on the same route I saw the trail of oil along the 7 mike route.
Turns out Sprinters ( likely others) only go up to 2 qt low force indicator.
$10k repair, and another $8k 6 mo later to fix first repair.
9 years old 38k miles.
My stinking John Deere tractor will not let you start with low oil or oil pressure.
Is MB that lame?
ICE no more.
Take your dead dinosaur burning vehicles and give us those free amperes which come right off our roofs in TV and back up north
Except for a cup holder and door pocket on Rivian and a free new battery on the bolt, no repairs ever in a combined 200k miles of abusive, neglectful use.

Only in cold weather pre 1960s vehicles.

wrong in warm climate , now if up north in zero degree weather and have vehicle that has crank case ventilation problems then yes condensation can build up. Not in Florida where temperatures are warm to hot year round. Not the big temperature swing like up north.

There not that old yet, but you’ll trade them long before they have real problems.

Unless your friend swapped in 426 street hemi it was 426 max wedge? Beside who has hemi or max wedge and don’t have their foot in it all time. My 69 GTX 440 didn’t fair as good, maybe 300 mile to quart. But the was ruff 300 miles.

Not Likely To Smoke
 

Because of the catalytic converter, it is not likely that the OP would see smoke in the exhaust if his engine is burning oil because of worn valve guides or piston rings.

I don't understand the OP's comment about checking "both sides" of the dipstick. What difference would this make?

If the OP notices his engine is down a quart after 1000 miles following the recent oil change, I would complain long and loudly to Ford.

Of interest, the car magazines are replete with complaints by Porsche owners about their cars using 1 quart/1000 miles and being told by the company that this is acceptable.

I'm a very practical guy. And also somewhat of a car guy. 2001 Z28 Camaro. Change the oil myself once a year with synthetic, needed or not. 30 minutes out of my retired day. Like I've got something else more important to do.

I have a lithium ion golf cart. Far better than gas. No maintenance. Charge at home on 110 outlet. Don't know why anyone would buy a gas cart anymore.

But EV for my primary/only car? Sorry. Too many issues with charging stations when away from home, and the value of the vehicle after a few years. I'm actually considering a used EV as a second car. Why? Only using locally and the residual value drops like a rock. I can pick up a Chevy Bolt crazy cheap. Because after five years, no one wants them.

Until I can charge my EV wherever I need in ten minutes, it goes 400 miles on a charge, and the battery is reliable to 20 years, I'm sticking with ICE for my primary vehicle.

No hate of EV. Just the right tool for the job.

If your car is older, rule of thumb is the change the oil every 3k miles or 3 months

Um, Heck no, even a cheap $50 oil change 4 times a year would be $200!

The OP is missing the point: you are using oil when you shouldn’t be, oil changes are the last thing you need to do, you need to find out why you are using all this oil.
Did somebody look at your spark plugs to see if they are coated with oil? Do a compression test! You can have piston rings that went bad, valve guides leaking, or a number of other issues.
Take your car in to a mechanic and have him look into this.

Accurate. Some new engine designs by certain manufacturers result in higher oil consumption, as stated, up to a quart per 1K of miles. I’ll leave out the manufacturers and engine models but one can easily research your car. Ironically, some of these new engine designs are now “oil burners” in the pursuit of higher MPG and performance. Engine longevity can suffer, though, as can the life of key components, like catalytic converters. Good to know your car.

I would have the technician show you the dip stick after the next oil change. Perhaps you’re not getting the proper fill. Most cars have different capacities and the tech may not have changed the setting on his oil filling device after the last job they did. A quart every thousand miles seems excessive.

Accurate. Some new engine designs by certain manufacturers result in higher oil consumption, as stated, up to a quart per 1K of miles. I’ll leave out the manufacturers and engine models but one can easily research your car. Ironically, some of these new engine designs are now “oil burners” in the pursuit of higher MPG and “performance”. Engine longevity can suffer, though, as can the life of key components, like catalytic converters.

Yes! It is not a low-oil light; it is a low oil pressure light.

Wonder how far you drove with the light ON ?
Lucky you didn't over-heat and seize your engine.

ps: I would drive about 100 feet before I investigated.

My 2019 Mazda 3 only has 8,700 miles on it.
 

What does your owner's manual say? I am guessing that is says to change the oil at least once a year. I generally prefer to follow the recommendations of the people who designed and built the car. Many cars have a oil weight recommendation, such as 0W-20, that essentially requires a synthetic.

The 10K, 1yr recommendation started when that was required for the mfg to get energy credits. The car is designed to survive a 3-4 yr warranty period running that oil change interval.

If you want to keep a car +80K mi, due to tighter tollarances and smaller oil passages, the experienced mechanics recommend not to go more than 5K mi without an oil change. Especially with the higher MPG 2L turbo engines.

The reason for the 12 mo recommendation is that low miles and shorter drives increases oil contamination reducing lubrication effectiveness.

Especially for the newer high MPG turbo motors. The turbo gets very hot and the oil that remains in them continues to cook and degrade after the engine shuts down.

Don’t forget about variable valve timing passages and piston rings carbon buildup. If I have turbo engine I would be changing oil more frequently due to turbo and coking. But, that’s me.