[retiredguy123]

When I considered enclosing my lanai, Munn's told me that they would not modify the existing ductwork to heat and cool the extra space unless the permit provided for raising the floor and adding additional insulation and electrical outlets and meet all building codes. However, they would install a separate HVAC unit in the lanai. Apparently, this is a loophole in the permitting process because the separate unit is called a dehumidifier, not an HVAC unit, on the county permit. Although the separate unit, which many houses have, does heat and cool the lanai space.

[J1ceasar]

Or you can more simply use wood sleepers, plywood and finish off in a nice time

[stan the man]

Originally Posted by PJ_Smiley

OK. I will do my level best to give you a concrete answer. The lanais in TV slope for water runoff. Most enclosed lanais in TV keep the slope and the window/slider/panel that contractors use is wider at the bottom as the slope increases. So, the outside window can have a "filler" of 1" to 3"'s under the enclosure or the sliders are 1-3"'s longer/taller. This solves the problem and keeps the cost down. Go to open homes with enclosed lanai and you will see that the sloping floor still slopes even with tile.

It seems most folks either don't know or don't want the extra expense to level the floor. With the sloped floor and enclosure (whether sliders, windows or some other enclosure configuration) a Sumter County resident can use the mini-split A/C and designate it a dehumidifier and stay within code.

If you want it level, you can have a concrete person "float" concrete and level the floor and then cover it with tile, vinyl flooring, etc. I do not have any experience with floating and chose not to "float" since I felt that the "float" concrete would have nothing to adhere to and would be a problem down the road.

Bringing the floor level with the house, basically a larger, thicker "float" does not bring the lanai up to Sumter County code. I have no specific knowledge of other county code. To bring an enclosed lanai up to Sumter County code, the resident must do the following:

1) Demo the concrete lanai floor. That's right. Tear it out. Rip it up. Get out the jackhammer!
2) Level the dirt to the floor height you want.
3) A vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) must be installed.
4) You may need to dig new footers depending on how extensive the remodel of the lanai.
5) Pour new concrete.
6) Insulate the ceiling.
7) Install electric outlets to meet code requirements (check with builder or county permitting.
8) Install enclosure.
9) Have A/C contractor validate (a report) that you A/C is large enough for additional square footage.
10) Add ducts and returns to lanai.
11) All of the above requires permits, inspections, and sign-offs by Sumter County.
12) Oh, yes. Get ARC approval.

Some other points:
1) You do not need to bring floor up to level of inside flooring. In fact, I prefer to keep the floor the same height that it was before just below the sliders. Why? That 3-4"'s makes a big difference with an 8' ceiling. The extra 3-4"s makes the room look bigger, and adds more headroom. I don't want to walk into a cave.
2) If you leave the sliders, the lanai space is not included in the taxable square footage for property tax purposes (Sumter County). If you remove the sliders, the lanai becomes taxable square footage. We left the sliders. It also adds privacy.
3) Sliding doors with frames and tracks at the bottom are just that, sliding doors. If you are going to use sliding doors to enclose, don't level the floor.
4) The more glass he more open you lanai will feel.
5) You may want to install solar window film to cut down on heat and UV and it will hive you privacy during the day.
6) At night, with lights on, you will be in a "fishbowl." You may want pull-down shades for privacy. If so, make sure they are opaque enough to actually give you privacy.
7) We expanded (widened) our lanai from 10' to 14' (added 4'). The drop from the slider to the new 14' end was 2 1/2". So, we tore out the concrete and started from scratch bringing everything up to code. Been their done that.

I keep reading opinion after opinion. If you want the facts, talk to Sumter County permitting. Or, have a contractor or 2 or 3 contractors or more stop by, draw up preliminary plans for with code and without code, floor level, floor not level and give you an estimate. The preliminary plans don't need to be a blueprint at this point, just something to give you a good understanding of what you want. A reputable contractor, like T&D, will require no money down, and give you the estimate for free. When a contract is signed, the will have a draw schedule for payments that is fair for the homeowner.

That's my 2 cents.

Now that is a "helpful" answer

[OhioBuckeye]

Originally Posted by retiredguy123

Whatever you do, I don't think it will be inexpensive. You could get a concrete contractor to apply a leveling topping to the existing floor. Raising the floor to the house level will probably cost even more, but it may be worth the extra cost because it will increase the value of the house.

I agree retiredguy123! Handyman or professional contractors in TV aren’t cheap. Hopefully in the future the new owners will see it as an asset but then again maybe they won’t even know or ask about it. Your way will be cheaper than taking up the present floor & pouring a new cement floor.Good advice!

[stadry]

wood, even p/t'd, shouldn't be placed in direct contact w/concrete so lay down plastic sheeting w/overlapped & taped seams prior to installing 2x4 gridwork,,, i like 3/4" t & g plywood w/2x4's 12" o/c,,, this removes 'springiness' as you walk on the floor,,, you'll have to rip the 2x4's so their angle matches the slope of the existing floor,,, not an easy task in itself