Raising the lanai floor?
 

One of our projects we're wanting to do is make our lanai a livable space in the summer. It is enclosed (w/ Plexiglas sliding windows), but not air conditioned and it gets hot. The tech with Chuck Farrell said the a/c is big enough to handle running ducts out to the lanai, but I'm concerned with the a/c loss through the Plexiglas. If we have low e glass installed, I've heard that permits then have to be pulled, therefore the lanai floor has to be raised to the level of the home, am I correct with what I've heard? If the floors have to be raised, does it have to be concrete or can a subfloor be built?

Those that have had this done or have checked into this, I would appreciate info from you.

We have a Gardenia and had a lanai with acrylic windows and a 4" step down from living space. Although we had A/C routed to the lanai (we are second owners), our south facing lanai was a hotbox during the day. We had concrete poured to raise the lanai floor and removed the 12' sliders between living space and lanai. Our outside acrylic windows were replaced with 20' sliders that have a low coefficient of heat transfer. This created a new interior space (Florida Room) that is very comfortable throughout the day because the sun's rays no longer heat-up the room and the A/C is able to keep up.
It has been a great improvement to our home. Good luck!

We had our Lanai enclosed and insulated. We low e sliding windows installed and the floor raised with concrete and had the same tile installed in the Lanai that we have in the house. So far we have left the sliders in place since removing them creates a taxable event and since my wife is security focused and wanted that extra protection I haven't looked to see if the tax would be significant or not. Because our project was extensive we needed permits and from what I can see, most reputable contractors will get permits if structural changes are made as well as ARC approvals.

The raising of the floor became a new regulation very early this year in Sumter county.
Required if going to have space air conditioned.

Usually Putting AC without double pane and low E glass is a major opportunity for heating and cooling losses with much higher utility bills.

Have you tried a Portable ac unit. It's not perfect but we Are very happy with our decision. $500-600 total Cost.

Razorbackfan, you need to do some research at Sumter County offices. The building codes were revised (as of 1/1/2015, I think). The results can include any or all of the following: (This is what I recall from newspaper and previous threads.)
1. The newly enclosed area will be classified as class 4 or 5 (I think) living space.
2. The new classification requires additional electrical receptacles.
3. The floor needs to be raised (note I have seen comments regarding water proofing).
4. Split A/C units are not allowed (need to check on this, maybe conditional on the living space classification).
5. Multiple permits required as well as inspections.
6. You will want suitable insulation in the lanai, etc.
Also, there maybe specific requirements for the glass being used to enclose this area, there will be increased taxes, and house insurance, etc.

Good luck with your project.

Do your self a big favor go to sumter county of in Pinellas Plaza and ask to talk to a building inspector about the specific requirements. I have done this twice and they have been very helpful, and eliminated the possibility of me making a costly error.

We raised our lanai floor to be level with rest of the house.
Concrete poured & tiled. Love it!

I don't believe that is true, at least according to a contractor I spoke with. The issue of raising the floor comes down to how far above grade it is. If it is far enough above grade then you don't need to raise it if you are installing a mini-split system. At least, this is how it was explained to me by someone who I believe understands the building codes. A vapor barrier is required either way.

We had an estimate for enclosing --installing glass sliders ---and split A/C system march of this year ----We have pavers on the Lanai even with the door track --

Called the County inspector and he told us as of 1/1/15 if you want to A/C that area --you must add electrical outlets and have a Moisture barrier on the floor
then pour concrete----in our case we would need to remove the pavers install the barrier then either replace the pavers or pour concrete ----

Still pondering !!!!! :confused::confused::cus:

Good Luck

By the way, make sure you get estimates for the additional work, I just had electrical work done on our lanai, and to have it done the way I wanted, it would have been very expensive to install the receptacles in the walls/columns. We were able to have these installed in the ceiling, but THIS IS NOT LIVING SPACE. A neighbor ran into a similar problem.

Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation (due to recent changes in the building code), and misunderstanding of said code, as well as what was allowed in the past. Go to the building department and ask.

Thanks everyone for the info. I'll head to the building department early next week and talk to them.

Good for you, please let everyone know the results, if you do not mind. It will probably help others considering these conversion.

We were leary about raising our lanai floor 3.5 inches when we were redoing our lanai...the cost was approx. $ 2K more. Then we went to a social at a house that did not have it done. Well an elderly gentlemen tripped and fell at the house/lanai junction and at that point I said we are doing it....raising the floor. BEST thing we have done and no worries about someone falling in our house because we tried to save a couple of bucks. Its now apart of our house and we thourghly enjoy it.

Just remember we live in a retirement community,

Just completed this project...although we did NOT install air conditioning (we face northeast so afternoon sun is not a factor). The space is permitted and the only requirement for adding AC is that there is a moisture barrier...this can be a tile floor or like we did, a flooring of chattahoochee river rock. We did not raise our floor.

Ok, I'm confused. Does the floor HAVE TO be raised to AC the lanai or can it be left alone? We are going to leave the slider in going from the kitchen to the lanai. BTW, has anyone used Magellan to do their lanai? My wife played in a tournament today and one lady was really happy with her lanai they did.

[QUOTE=784caroline;1085173]We were leary about raising our lanai floor 3.5 inches when we were redoing our lanai...the cost was approx. $ 2K more. Then we went to a social at a house that did not have it done. Well an elderly gentlemen tripped and fell at the house/lanai junction and at that point I said we are doing it....raising the floor. BEST thing we have done and no worries about someone falling in our house because we tried to save a couple of bucks. Its now apart of our house and we thourghly enjoy it.

Just remember we live in a retirement community,[/QUOT

We did raise our Lanai floor. Have several friends who did not and are now quite sorry that they chose the less costly approach. The step is a pain and very dangerous.

I already answered this. As long as the floor is far enough above grade you are fine but a moisture barrier must be installed. (from what I was told by a contractor).

I spoke the planning dept before I got my permit, the floor does NOT need to raised.

Only if the slab is at or below grade. None of them I've seen are.
The contractors that don't know the code will rope you into spending money for work not needed.

The reason for the slab to visible is for termite inspection and water infiltration.

This can also be accomplish be excavating with a shovel out a few inches of dirt.

As far as A/C heat, a load calc needs to be done to determine if an additional unit is needed, most homes don't need it.


Vapor under existing slab is not required, it is not stated anywhere in the code.

You are not required but really should insulate the lanai ceiling with R-30

Windows, if you but the wrong glass that almost all contractors are using and you have sun on the glass it will get hot.

You need the correct solar glass.

see my other thread here about glass.

It is really crazy about the miss information. :read:

Interesting. I talked to Larry, one of the building inspectors mid January about the issue. He advised that I could ac/heat the addition (did not discuss split system, only extending the existing system) and he specifically told us that if we remove our sliders or french doors into the Lanai it would be a taxable space. As long as the the house could be separated from the Lanai it would not be re-assessed. Since we had permits pulled he knew what we did. Could we getting different opinions from the same guys that assess? We raised the floor, have more than enough outlets and had the Lanai and the entire house insulated and installed a radiant barrier through out the house. So far so good and no AC required.....yet.

Apparently a vapor barrier is now required over an existing concrete floor according to two contractors.

Update:
Apparently on June 30th Sumter County adopted new building code. I just got caught in this as the plans for our new birdcage were submitted around July 1st, and were denied, and need to be resubmitted. I was also told that projects started under the OLD code need to be completed under the NEW code, this is unbelievable!!!
So double check, there seems to be lots of confusion on this issue. I may be looking at few weeks delay due to this change and all of the confusion at Sumter County.

Don't leave us hanging...what code changes did you get caught up in and what do you have to do differently??

I wouldn't go by any contractor saying that with their had in your pocket.

Moreover, tell them to show it to you in code. :read:

Like you said not believable, any permit issued before June 30th is valid for one year.

Now if you don't complete in one year yes then the renewal must comply with the new code.

Just look at all the houses being completed here now
(and over the next couple of months) with the non compliant aluminum windows.


.

I also spoke with the code guy in the Villages and was told that they were requiring a vapor barrier over the concrete now. An underlayment used for tile was one example he provided.

Whom did you speak to?

I don't recall the guy's name. He was in a district office I believe.

All, in my case the problem was with the NOTES on the second page of the drawings, apparently referenced the OLD co. I do not have specifics, as I have not seen the revised drawings, so I do not the details. More to follow.