Remove protective post in garage
 

Has anyone removed a protective post from their garage? When we bought our house there was a 3' x 6" post on the garage floor in front of our water heater in the garage to protect the water heater from damage when the car was pulled into the garage. We removed the conventional water heater and replaced it with a gas tankless water heater that is mounted outside the garage. This freed up quite a bit of floor / storage space where the hot water heater used to be....except for the fact that the steel post is still there out in the garage floor. It is fastened to the garage floor with large bolts. I have tried to remove them with my socket set and even used a 1" x 4' pipe as a handle extension to get more torque.

If you have removed such a pipe:
1. What did you use to remove it? -or-
2. Who removed it for you?

Thanks!

I personally would not remove one from my home especially if I had gas appliances in the garage. I'm not certain but I would think it's placed there for code reasons and removal may jeopardize your home owners insurance and local code issues. Just my opinion.

My protective post sits in front of my gas water heater. I acted early and jut replaced by water heater. However even if i went with a tankless system I would leave the post because it also protects my HVAC system which is enclosed and located to the right o the gas water heater.

Actual Suggestions on How to Remove the Post
 

Three things to try and I would try them in this order.

1. Buy a small can of Liquid Wrench or the equivalent at Walmart or an auto parts store and put a few drops on each bolt. Wait 24 hours and try the sockets again.

2. If you can safely us a propane torch on the nuts without catching something nearby on fire, heat them up for a while then try the sockets again. Note that you will get some smoke initially from the Liquid Wrench burning off.

3. You can use an angle grinder to cut off the bolts but that will leave short stubs sticking up from the floor. You could grind them down once the post is removed but the risk of at least minor damage to the concrete around them is significant.

Good luck.

Use your legs with the 4 foot extension. You can get more torque with the big muscles in your legs providing you are healthy enough to apply force without hurting yourself. Maybe more trouble than it's worth.

If you were working with me and I saw you do that, you'd be off the job. [emoji3]

Evedently you're never changed flat tire with the short lug wrench when the nuts were pounded on with impact? :icon_wink: besides I doubt we could work togather:1rotfl:

I carry a breaker bar with the correct sized socket. I never felt the need to be an amateur [emoji4]

I'd try my Sazall with a metal blade.
Or as someone suggested, an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel.
Or I'd try my nut buster, if I could find it.

The bolts are not all that tight. With a proper socket and wrench you should be able to back out the bolts. Use an extension on your ratchet wrench if needed. I don't think wd 40 is needed. If you have relocated the gas hot water heater and feed pipe you should have no code issues.

This is a good point. Worth checking into before proceeding.

Also, if you succeed in removing the nuts, you will be left with the studs sticking up from the floor, waiting to be stepped on or tripped over. Thus, you will decide to cut them flush to the floor. If you decide to re-install later, you are drilling and installing anchors. Just food for thought.

Just for the hell of it, I just went to my garage and used my Dewalt 18V impact wrench on the bolts on those bollards. Came out quite easily.

As for the Florida code, it only states that the appliances must be installed as the manufacturer recommends. Most installation instructions state that the appliance must be protected against vehicle impact.

OP,

Assuming that you have confirmed there is nothing illegal about removing this protective post, you could try the following:

1. Buy some rust buster, possibly automotive supply stores or big box stores. Apply this to all four bolts, tap with a ball peen hammer and repeat application. Then let sit overnight. tap with ball peen hammer again. Then try loosening the bolts. I have used this product in the past on cars with good success.

2. If #1 does not work, apply more rust buster, then borrow an impact hammer, either air or electric. Make sure it is set to loosen, and try that.

3. If now of the above work, look at the top of the bolts and see how many lines are on the bolts, if there are no lines or 3 lines, then you can drill out the bolts. If you have 5 or more line then you have hardened bolts and you will require COBALT bits to drill these out ($$$). Start with an 1/8" metal drill and lubricant and drill about 1/2" to 5/8" pilot hole. Follow up with a 1/4" hole, and then with a 3/8" hole. I am guessing that will free up the head of the bolt. This will have minimal damage to the concrete, and you can continue drilling if you end up with stubs sticking out of the concrete.

4. Once the pole and bolt heads have been removed, you may be able to remove the bolts with and additional hole and an easyout. I actually have left hand drill bits specifically for this purpose.

Hope this helps.

If you want to discuss further, r if you need tools or help, send me a PM.

Removing Poles
 

[QUOTE=airbear;1236532]Has anyone removed a protective post from their garage? When we bought our house there was a 3' x 6" post on the garage floor in front of our water heater in the garage to protect the water heater from damage when the car was pulled into the garage. We removed the conventional water heater and replaced it with a gas tankless water heater that is mounted outside the garage. This freed up quite a bit of floor / storage space where the hot water heater used to be....except for the fact that the steel post is still there out in the garage floor. It is fastened to the garage floor with large bolts. I have tried to remove them with my socket set and even used a 1" x 4' pipe as a handle extension to get more torque.

Listen to XKE he has the right plan.

Evidently you didn't read the op post, he tried that with socket and 4 foot extension. So your plan CAPUT :popcorn:

Plus if we worked togather who says you would be in charge. :)

My personality would overwhelm you plus I am a Jedi Knight, you would need to submit. [emoji23]

The sudden jolt issued by your impact wrench,
seems to be quite effective indeed!
Matching the tool to the job at hand is golden.:MOJE_whot:

Ok, I tired of playing:sigh:

Use your legs with the 4 foot extension.
That's what I call a NUT BUSTER. :a040:

Get a longer pipe

TNT


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Rent a Diamond Bit Concrete Saw a mask and ear protection and cut it out of the floor. One bag of redi mix. Paint. Done. Next problem. :1rotfl: Playing with your nuts :1rotfl: and getting the post off still leaves you with the studs, not good.

True.
But this works also:
Performance Tool Heavy-Duty Nut Splitter, Model# W88030 | Extractors| Northern Tool + Equipment

Try PB Blaster instead of Liquid Wrench. It is a better penetrating oil.

"Remove protective post" "Remove protective post" "Remove" "protective post" "protective post" "Post protects"

Wife to Rubicon am I close enough. Yep can't get a piece of paper between the car and the "protective post"

Wife to rubicon You just did a wife I can't get a piece of paper between the car and the "protective post":o:o:o:o:o

Just remember, always wear safety glasses when you are using any kind of power tools or are hammering . A small metal ,concrete or wood chip and you can lose an eye. Safety glasses in HD or Lowe's are less than 10 dollars. Keep them in your tool box so you won't have to look for them.