The car dealers!!!
 

Helped a friend buy a certified car at Ed Morse Cadillac yesterday. The first offer had an unusual line item on the paper. RECON $2,000. I asked 'What's that" I'm told its their cost to recondition the car for resale. I said it was not listed on the on line ad.....I said that's ridiculous- you add that to the selling price!! So when they asked what my friend would buy the car for I wrote BS next to the $2,000. They took it off. Many car dealer add a 'additional sticker' to used cars calling it ;additional dealer markup. Don't pay it! May will, not knowing it's negotiable. LET THE BUYER BEWARE-NEVER ACCEPT THE FIRST OFFER. BE PREPARED TO WALK OUT AND ACTUALLY DO IT, THEY USUALLY CALL YOU BACK THE NEXT DAY OR BEFORE YOU LEAVE THAT DAY.

I am currently going to battle stations with MB of Ft Lauderdale, bought a certified car online-it had every option I wanted-but the next day after I got it I found out , the twin roller blind was missing--how can a vehicle be considered certified if its missing a piece of standard equipment--dealer cost for the part is $1100.00

Been in touch MB customer car, may go to small claims court

You may want to join our nice club: M.Benz Club of The Villages, Inc.
Next meeting Tuesday Oct 8.

The dreaded dealer add on window sticker!! Walk out immediately! There is always another dealer not selling mandatory useless add on crap, often amounting to several thousand dollars.



"The party told you to reject the evidence of your eyes and ears..."
George Orwell

Agreed! This one wasn't even posted anywhere!

Thanks for the invite, We have two benz's, but we're not club joiners

Not your typical club. No entertainment or food at meetings. Educational in nature. Tomorrow : Our speakers, Richie Breines, Shop Manager and Michael Siglga, Service Manager of Mercedes Benz of Gainesville. Their topic will be Mercedes Style and Safety. You are sure to learn some new things

Went to the Lincoln dealer on 441 Leesburg with a friend years ago, he was checking out new Lincolns. He was talking to a friend in the showroom while I was looking at the window sticker of a new SUV.

I saw an entry for "Dealer Rep - $900". A young sales rep came up to me, and right away I said - what's the dealer prep for? "Oh they don't do all the assembly at the factory, and we finish it in our dealer". I quickly said - what type of things do you need to do? A frightened look from him, then said " Like putting in the fuses and stuff". I took him to task and said - Do you tell all the customers that? How dare you... After a bit more give<>take a mgr came up and I told him that his staff is taking advantage of potential clients - just tell the truth.

My friend escorted me out and Lincolns at that dealer were not on his list.

The car dealers!!!
 

"And stuff", lol.


"The party told you to reject the evidence of your eyes and ears..."
George Orwell

Where is Ed Morse Cadillac located? Does"Da Family" also own a car dealership? :>

If there's a body in the trunk, maybe. Lol


"The party told you to reject the evidence of your eyes and ears..."
George Orwell

First Rule: stay away from Jenkins. They have an $899 dealer fee, find a dealer that doesn't have fees. I used yelp.com, typed in the brand looked for dealers with 4 or 5 stars and good reviews.

Last year I bought a new 2018 Hyundai Kona, I went to Jenkins of Leesburg because they advertised a lime green one in stock. When I got there, they didn't have it or know when it would arrive. They said when they received paperwork that they are on order, they'll starting listing it.

I drove at a gray Kona and sat down with the salesman and the sales manager. They gave me $24,500 for my trade and wanted $3300 plus my car. I said, let me check around.

I read the good reviews from Hyundai of Central Florida in Clermont, and saw no dealer fees on their website. I went there next and they had 33 Konas in stock. Jenkins had about 10. They only offered $24,000 for my trade but only wanted $24,200 for the Limited Edition that I wanted. So my car and $200, that's $3100 cheaper than Jenkins.

Normally I say, stay away from dealers with dealer fees. However, I know a person who liked the Kona but waited until the end of the year and got new one for $2400 less than I paid at Holler Hyundai n Winter Park. Even though they paid a dealer fee, the base selling price was much lower due to 2019's were arriving.

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d5&oe=5E1D6F8B

When I make an offer on a car it is an out the door offer, you give me the car and you get a check for this amount, period. It took me 4-1/2 hours to buy a Honda Civic for my wife at my price from Jenkins in Leesburg, I'll never go back there again. I did finally get it at my price and they had to deliver it to me the next day as I wasn't about to stay there any longer.

Just the opposite at Phillips Buick in Fruitland Park, I dealt with Scott Hall for a new Enclave, made my offer, he came back with a signed contract and told me to go empty my trade while they completed the paper work, the only delay was getting someone at TV Insurance to get them my insurance certificate. Great place to buy a car and Scott is the ultimate no-push salesman.

I agree with making an out the door price offer to the dealer. But, you need to research the fair value and calculate the out the door price before you go to the dealership. If your price is fair, and you make a firm, non-negotiable offer, almost any dealer will accept it, regardless of what they claim to charge for dealer prep or anything else. But, I would never spend 4 hours talking to a dealer about the price. The last time I bought a car, I test drove the car one day, and came back two days later and gave the dealer 15 minutes to accept my out the door offer written on a piece of paper. They accepted it just as I was walking out the door. I also think it is a good idea to refuse to sit at their little desk to discuss anything, or to let the salesperson go talk to his manager. I stay in the waiting room, drinking their free coffee until they accept the deal. If they don't accept it immediately, I give them my phone number and leave. They will surely call you.

If they have dealer prep or processing fees included and the car has a dealer identity decal and or license plate frame I ask for an advertising credit or removal of the decal/frame.

One salesman at MB Gainesville tried to tell me the non-advertising "Mercedes" frame from my trade-in MB would not fit the MB I was purchasing so he put mine in the trunk. Five minutes after I was home my plate was on the car and fitting perfectly while the dealer's frame was in my trash.

101 E Fletcher Ave Tampa, FL 33612 :ho: Got that in 0.60 seconds on Google.

Guess it's Da with some and Duh! with others......:rolleyes:

Nowadays, aren’t there ways to get a known good price? Just a reasonable amount over MSRP?

I guess I’m talking about services that in effect give you kind of a Carmax type service except for new cars. Don’t those services exist?

I always go to KBB.com first (Kelly Blue Book). They will tell you what you should pay and what your trade is worth. The $24,200 I paid was actually less than what they said I should pay for my new Kona.

In 2013 I bought a Hyundai Veloster Turbo and went to KBB and even though I had read on message boards the new Veloster Turbo was selling for a $1,000 above list because only 700 were coming into country. Sort of like when Mazda Miata first came out. It said the $23,925 MSRP that I should pay $22,600 and my Mazda 3 Grand Touring was worth $16,600 on trade.

Next step is to go to autotrader.com and go to advanced search. Type in the distance away, I usually select 75 miles, which will include Orlando, Winter Park, Tampa and St. Pete Dealers. Then the car you want, new or used, and the options and colors. Then you're selections will come up. On the Veloster I called the dealer, Red Hoagland Hyundai of Winter Haven and spoke with the internet salesman. He took the phone out to the car and asked what questions I might have. Then I told him to hold the car for two hours while I get there.

After I met the internet salesman and drove the car. I said, I'll give you $22,600 and I want $16,600 for my trade. He walked into the manager's office and a minute later said I had a deal.

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d0&oe=5E1C03F4

I did the same thing two years ago when I wanted a 2017 50th Anniversary Camaro but didn't want to pay the MSRP of $39,500, KBB said I should pay $34,500. I found one on autotrader at North Orlando Audi with just over a 1,000 miles for less than $29,000, it was just like new.

https://scontent-mia3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...19&oe=5E3B7DE2

Please Explain how you got out of dealer only paying 200 buck and in new car! I NEVER found dealer that didn’t make at least 2 to 3K or more on trade in or they wouldn’t trade.

IMO MSRP is till over by 3K or more?

Actually sales tax, title and tags were $200, so $200 plus $200 (difference in trade and sales price) I wrote a check for $400 and out the door I went. How they made money, my car went on the market for $29,900 on their used car lot. They made their profit on the trade. However, if I walked in with $24,200 in cash, I could of still bought the car, however sales tax would of be 7% of the entire price instead of the difference, otherwise that was the price of the car. It pays to shop around, at Jenkins my trade was worth $24,500 plus $3800, so their sales price was $28,300, quite a difference between dealers. Actually I've seen commercials lately that KBB and Autotrader are working hand-in-hand, so you might only need to go to the autotrader.

Autotrader Home

KBB Kelly Blue Book

Here's an example of the opposite. In 1985 I bought a new Honda CRX for $8800, I traded in a 1981 Corvette and they gave me $11,800 for my car. So I actually got the new Honda and a check for $3,000.

This past July I walked into an Ocala dealership at 4PM on the last day of the month. Received the "retail" KBB value for my trade-in and 9.5K off the MSRP on the sale.
The dealer offered my trade-in for sale at $350 more than I was given. It sat for 2 months after which they dropped the price $500.
I suppose the sales manager needed my sale to make his number for the month.




"The party told you to reject the evidence of your eyes and ears..."
George Orwell

Oh man. My bad!!! I'm going to back and edit my post. I meant just a little over invoice price...not MSRP!! :shocked:

First time I've ever quoted myself, but I have to correct a really gross error!! I did not mean a good price is "a reasonable amount over MSRP"! I meant a reasonable amount over the invoice price.

Duh.

So I ask again...are there ways (like something similar to a CarMax, only for new cars) to get a price just a bit over the invoice price for a new car?

I don't even look at the "invoice" document that dealers provide. It is a totally bogus document designed to trick customers. I understand that dealers make money by earning incentives offered by the manufacturer for selling a set number of cars within a specific period of time. So, even the dealer doesn't know his actual cost for a specific car. KBB.com and Edmunds.com are two pretty good sources to calculate the fair value for a new car and the trade in. Neither of these web sites include anything for dealer prep or other bogus dealer fees or add-ons. I think, as a rough estimate, most cars can be purchased for about 3 to 5 percent less than the MSRP. But, make sure you verify the current rebates offered by the manufacturer, because the rebates effectively reduce the published MSRP. Some dealers will not tell you about the rebate until you have agreed to an out-the-door price, and then the rebate shows up on the sales contract. But, it doesn't reduce your price because you have already agreed to pay a specific amount.

Don't forget the holdback! Dealer holdback Definition | Bankrate.com

Keep in mind, dealers of cars, or drug dealers are very similar in that they both want as much of your money as they can get. One difference, is that ripping you off, is legal for car salesmen. Dealers have a month end bonus for the salesmen that has the highest profit on a single deal. Unlike many of the bonus categories, this one gets ues and wow’s and if it’s a record breaking ripoff, laughter and applause.

My theory as it applied in the NJ/NY metro area was that if you walk into a dealer with a prince in hand, even if well investigated and they accept it you’re usually paying too much.

Also I would never mention a trade until I got the final price on the vehicle I am buying. Then I follow with my trade. That way you know exactly what you are getting for your vehicle. Otherwise there is no way to actually know. They play games with trade prices and vehicle prices combined.

Of course things down here in the boonies are likely different. Up north the sales volume and competition between highway dealerships 2 blocks apart is crazy. Here you sometimes have to drive 50 miles between competing dealers and they know it.



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