Hot water heater
 

Call the manufacturer of the hot water heater and ask them. having stated that, the water here (just south of 466a) appears to be fairly hard which will cause additional build up in hot water heater. We have avoided this with a water softener and whole house filter.

Your post served as a reminder to me to flush ours. We had an electric water heater in our last home in Virginia which I flushed occasionally. I had to replace the lower heating element once but the water was still working when we listed the house for sale at 40 years old.

Don't believe you need a complete draining but opening the flush and draining until the water is clear seems to be a prudent action.

Don’t matter where you’re live in villages. flush mine every year. Just hook up water hose to the lower drain valve and open it up for minute or so. If you see a lot of crud coming out open it up till clear.

Perhaps they mean that BAD things multiply faster in stagnant Hot water.

Definitely would at least run the hot water out of the heater through the regular home HOT faucets, at even a 30 day absence....(The heater tank is refilling with fresh cold water as you do this)...

I believe that even if you are gone 4 days...you should flush all toilets twice and run each faucet and shower for at least 2 minutes...( both HOT and COLD).

Stagnant water can cause bacterial and viral harm to humans.

If you have ever seen a stainless steel water tanker truck discharge water into a Pool...you know what I mean.

wow had no idea

Why would you heat hot water?

thx for this thread--very helpful

I thought that if you do not clean out your hot water heater for a period of years you should not do it as the drain main not reseal and water would continue to flow out.

Yes. The Rheem manual only "suggests" that you drain a small amount of water every month. They don't recommend draining the entire water heater. In fact, the valve requires a screw driver or other tool to open it. If the manufacturer expected owners to open it every month, why don't they provide a handle for it? If you plan to open the drain valve, I would first go to Home Depot and buy a plastic or brass cap and washer to screw onto the valve discharge pipe just in case the valve starts to leak after you close it. A small amount of sediment in the valve can prevent it from closing and it will leak. The sediment in the tank tends to settle and stick to the bottom of the tank. So, when you open the valve, I don't think you really get the bulk of the sediment to flow out because the valve opening is very small. I believe that most people, including me, never do any maintenance on their water heater.

I think you mean a Cold Water Heater. If you had hot water you would not need to heat it.

Probably safety feather so little hands don’t turn it on?

I hate nit pick Its a water heater, not a hot water heater. If the water was hot there would be no need to heat it...

Over 10 or more period you’re water Heater can fill up will mostly calcium sludge or slag and you only getting about 20 gallons of water out of 40 gallon tank. This why the recommend draining some every year? Which causes lost of hot water quickly and you heater kicking on reheating the water and the slag.

Some try replacing the antidote after few years which Reduces the buildup but can’t eliminate it. Water softener can reduce this by removing the metals before it enters the water heater. Eventually it going to go bad Depending on where you live and metal in the water.

When I lived in okie land I alway brought the heaters with 12 year warranty, they would rust out and leak. I always got another one free. They don't last long there.

The new instant gas heaters attached to outside of the house may solve this problem? But, they are new and see it problems develop over the years?

I assume you mean anode rod and not "antidote". Assuming this is true, the anode rod is used as a sacrificial electrolysis site to reduce corrosion of the metal parts of the tank. As such, it won't reduce any buildup in the tank. Periodic replacement of the anode may help to extend the life of the water heater.

Maybe, but there are other ways to provide the safety, like a removable handle. Little hands already have access to lots of tempting valves and dangerous knobs in the house. I think it is more likely that the water heater maker knows that most people are not going to mess with the drain valve.

Guess we will do what we have always done with our water heater, nothing. We purchased our house that was already 10 years and most likely original homeowner did what we do.

Join the crowd. If I have 10 year old water heater I sure wouldn’t open the drain valve. Why? Won’t do no good cause it won’t get the chunks out and probably leak.

Yes, couldn’t remember the name and too lazy to look it up. I can tell you didn’t Work in Oklahoma on well water.

Depends on the maker, I had some with knobs in pass years. Probably from law suit??????

:bigbow:

I went through the dilemma 6 months ago. Have Gas hot water heater and had not drained it in 14 years. Was hearing strange thumping noises when water heater started heating. Thought the worse and heard about potential leaking valve after draining. decided to drain and change valve. Watched UTUBE how tos and went to work.

To drain , you are supposed to shut off the cold water inlet, turn the gas valve to pilot, connect hose, and open drain valve, and hot water spigots. Yes it takes a screwdriver which is in fact a safety precaution to prevent accidental opening.

To my surprise, opening the drain valve did not allow any water out. After thinking fo a while I decided to open the cold water inlet. That pressure started the drain process. After it started , I again closed the cold water inlet and it continued to drain.

Recall, that my plan was to change the drain valve. Once I removed the drain valve, I used a flashlight to view the inside of the tank through the opening. I found that the bottom of the tank was still loaded with a milky sludge. It took about six 1 minute purges by turning on the cold water inlet to clear the tank.

Long story but the point is that unless you drain the tank periodically, that sludge is there mixing with your hot water. It may not be harmful , but it can't be good. Since then have helped neighbors drain without changing valve using same system. Have not encountered drain valve leaks. If one was dripping , a cap would stop a small leak.

Very good. Did you also test the T&P (temperature and pressure) safety relief valve to see if it is functional? It is at the top of the tank and you lift up the metal lever to test it. Water should flow out through the discharge pipe. When I replaced an old gas water heater a few years ago, the relief valve was frozen shut. If you don't have an expansion tank, it is especially important that the relief valve is functional.

Yep, it worked fine, as it did when my expansion tank failed. I actually opened it to help the water tank drain.

Did you get Any small chunks of calcium out? Few years back where I lived was on well water and water heaters rarely lasted 10 years. With metals In The water it created crusty rusty looking particles and eventually rotted out at bottom and caused pin holes leak. The one I cut open I didn’t know how long it was installed, it was almost half full of rocky crunchy deposits. The water was soft, but full of metals. I had system to remove the metals, but made the water hard. At time there was no system that would do both back then.

Yes have used the cap here when I drained the water heater when i brought. The valve leaked when after I drained it. After year I just replaced it cause it was doing the thumping and crackling.

I just hook hose up and open the drain valve for minute to drain. city water not bad as well water..

Supposedly the new water heaters circulate better so the calcium/ milky stuff won’t build up as bad? We see?

Don’t all water heaters down here have the expansion tanks?

No. The current plumbing code requires new houses to have an expansion tank, but there are many older houses in The Villages that were built before the current code was in effect. One problem is that, when a plumber replaces a water heater in one of those older houses, they don't automatically install an expansion tank. This is because it is a lot easier to just replace the water heater. They don't want to do the extra work required to re-pipe the system and make space for an expansion tank and/or the homeowner doesn't want to spend the extra money. But, the plumber should advise the homeowner that the expansion tank is really needed. Technically, this may satisfy the current plumbing code because replacing a water heater is not a major renovation, so they call it a repair. Even so, I would recommend spending the extra money and get an expansion tank when you buy a new water heater.