Car buying tips
 

I have helped several buy cars and created this 1 page advice on buying a car.

Good advice. I always carefully calculate the KBB.com fair value price, including the trade-in, down to the out-the-door number. I put it on post-it note and give the dealer about 15 minutes to accept it or I leave. I never calculate a dealer fee, never sit it the dealer's office, and never discuss any numbers except the out-the-door price. Most dealers will sell the car for that price.

thanks for sharing your sage advice on one of the experiences that we all dread going through...buying a car from a dealer

Thank you. Plan to buy a second car once we have someplace to go and will use your sheet.

Use them for what? How? I am also insured with USAA

USAA has a car buying service for members. However, the problem is that they use "TrueCar" for pricing the cars. You should know that TrueCar is a vehicle pricing service that is almost totally funded by car dealers. It is designed to help dealers sell cars, not to provide consumers with accurate, unbiased information about the value of cars. I would suggest using either KBB.com or Edmunds.com to calculate the fair value of a vehicle. In general, I don't like buying services. First, they claim that their dealers are "certified", which means nothing (ask them for a list of dealers who they would not certify). And, sometimes, you will be directed to a dealer who is supposed to have a particular car on the lot, but it turns out to be just a ploy to get you to visit the dealer, where they will try to sell you another car. If you use a buying service, I would get the window sticker and VIN number for an actual car, and a calculated "out-the-door" price before even visiting the dealer to view the car. The out-the-door price includes all costs down to the sales tax, tags, and title.

Didn't know Edmunds.com. Gonna check it out.

Car buying
 

My best advice his to have knowledge, look up where your current car is selling for a retail if you're going to trade it in and realize a jeweler wants to make three to four thousand dollars when they refill your car later so your car will be discounted. New cars commonly have a profit margin of 8 12% off dealer sticker so that is usually what they're working with to give you a discount of course there are rebates special Loan offers and what's going on I called the hold back or kick back from the manufacturer depending on how well the car is selling. The most important thing is that if you were going to finance your vehicle if you get pre-approved from dozens of different banks and internet sources so you know what you should be paying about an interest rate based on your credit serval companies on the internet do this without you it's called A Hard pull which would affect your credit rate. Very simply don't take crap how many salesperson giving you high pressure. Remember you buy four cars or six cars in your life they sell 500 every month

Good advice! Thanks. Still buying a car is a scary, intimidating experience for a lot of people.

I’ve subscribed to “Consumer Reports” and read it cover to cover for almost forty years. I would NEVER buy a car without looking at the Consumer Reports ratings and learning the car’s strengths, weaknesses, and reliability. Why buy a car with a low rating when I can buy a car with a high rating for the same price? Here is a link to where you can join or subscribe.
Best Rated Cars from Consumer Reports

Consumer Also has a service (in link, I guess, with another company mentioned here) that will show you what each accessory costs, what the actual dealer cost is, etc. It will tell you what to offer for a specific car. More, you can put together a package of exactly what car you are looking for, with what accessories. Consumer Reports will tell you what lots within shipping distance have that specific car and are willing to sell it to you for that specific price, with no dickering. You go in, sign the papers, and take your car. You can have your car serviced at any dealership. You don’t have to have it serviced where you buy it. Dealers make money off service, so it’s fine with them.
Build & Buy Car Buying Service

Good advice! Thanks. Still buying a car is a scary, intimidating experience for a lot of people.

I’ve subscribed to “Consumer Reports” and read it cover to cover for almost forty years. I would NEVER buy a car without looking at the Consumer Reports ratings and learning the car’s strengths, weaknesses, and reliability. Why buy a car with a low rating when I can buy a car with a high rating for the same price? Here is a link to where you can join or subscribe.
Best Rated Cars from Consumer Reports

Consumer Also has a service (in link, I guess, with another company mentioned here) that will show you what each accessory costs, what the actual dealer cost is, etc. It will tell you what to offer for a specific car. More, you can put together a package of exactly what car you are looking for, with what accessories. Consumer Reports will tell you what lots within shipping distance have that specific car and are willing to sell it to you for that specific price, with no dickering. You go in, sign the papers, and take your car. You can have your car serviced at any dealership. You don’t have to have it serviced where you buy it. Dealers make money off service, so it’s fine with them.
Build & Buy Car Buying Service

As a USAA member, I have purchased a number of new vehicles using their car buying service.

Their new car and trade-in valuation have been "spot on" when compared with both edmunds and kbb.

The most significant advantage is that the service puts the request "out for bid", involving a number of dealerships. Yes, it can be a hassle, sorting through the calls and emails; but, in my experience, it results in a lower purchase price AND better service.

Since you asked, there is one tip I always give to prospective buyers when visiting a new car dealership. It's OK to test drive a vehicle but walk (run) away from a dealership that displays "dealer" add-ons -- nitrogen in the tires, paint and/or interior protectant, door-edge guards, contracted service, etc. etc.

That dealership is scamming the public and IS NOT to be trusted!

Thank you for sharing your advice!

I believe that all dealers have scam tactics. But, if you can calculate the Edmunds and KBB fair values, you don't need a buying service and you don't even need to discuss the add-on sticker. Just ask for the dealer's out-the-door price, and if it higher then the Edmunds or KBB price, offer to buy the car for the price you calculated. If he refuses, then leave. But, in my experience, almost any dealer will accept the KBB price because they need to sell the car more then you need to buy it. After you make your offer, don't stay longer than about 10 or 15 minutes, and don't ever go into the dealer's office. If you leave, they will always call you back. A buying service doesn't do anything that you can't do yourself, and it doesn't guarantee a low price.

We will never buy a new car again. Florida has so many well to do older folks who buy very expensive new cars, barley drive them, and the cars never see northern winters, road salt, or pot holes. The cars depreciate rapidly because of age but are in almost new condition. Why pay new car prices when you can get a low mileage used car in great shape for 1/4 to 1/3 of the price?

One trick I hate is that they want you to give them your keys. I always "assume" they are going to have someone look at my car while I talk to the salesperson. Can be hard to get those keys back.

Buying a car, give them the trade in particulars. USAA will come back with the dealership to go to.

I have found that the best price on a new vehicle is always through the dealers “internet manager”. I learned this tip years ago when I worked for 25 years in the business. Not saying you shouldn’t do your homework but once you know the vehicle you want, make the call to the dealerships internet manager for your absolute best price.

If purchasing a new car, I recommend negotiating the price purely via their internet manager. It's definitely less stressful, and I think it gets to a better price. I've used the following approach several times, and I've been comfortable with the price I paid:
1.) First decide exactly what car you want, down to the trim level, options and color. This will probably entail your going to some dealers to test drive cars -- but don't talk price or enter into a negotiation after the test drive. Just tell them you'll think about it, and walk away. Also, use Consumer Reports to help you decide exactly what you want -- they are a good source to see comparative reviews among similar vehicles of the class you are looking at.
2.) Use a search app to find several instances of the exact car you want within whatever distance you're willing to travel to pick up a new car. I like autotrader.com. You can input trim levels, options, colors, etc, etc to search for the exact car you want.
3.) Go to the manufacturer's website and use the build-a-car option to price out the car and to get a first look at the rebates being offerred.
4.) Go to the dealers website, and initiate a request for quote to their internet person. Start the process by quoting the VIN from the car you found, and ask for their best out-the-door price. Be clear that you want the out-the-door price that includes all fees and extras. Whatever you do, don't give them your phone number. Keep the negotiation by email as it's less stressful and they know you can walk away in a heart beat.
5.) Initiate the above with multiple dealers at the same time. By seeing how each one responds, you may pick up visibility on another rebate that's out there or clearly see that some dealers are adding on fees that others aren't.
6.) Most, but not all, will play games in the email exchange, but keep after them for the out-the-door price. Don't be shy about telling them you're casting your net wide and will choose strictly by price over a wide area.
7.) They will all ask you for your phone number repeatedly, but don't give it to them.
8.) If you've zeroed in on a price you feel is as good as you can get, drop it by a few hundred bucks and make them a firm offer, stressing that it is an out-the-door number including all fees and extras.
9.) When you finally have a hand shake on price over the email, then give them a call and arrange the logistics. But beware of them still trying to sneak in extra things like a dealer fee. Keep their email in your pocket where the exchange said your offer was for the out-the-door price.
10.) Be prepared to walk away up to the last minute if they try to slip something in on the final paperwork.

Best to keep the trade in off the table until you are ready to buy the car. My car key stays in my pocket.

Thanks for the suggestions.

One item should be added to the negotiation. Do not give your keys for them to evaluate your trade. Go with them while they drive your car and as soon as you return to the dealership TAKE the keys . This insures no damage to your trade by them and you have your keys and can leave when ever you want.

I don't have a problem lending them my keys to inspect my car. That way, when I make an offer, they have already evaluated the trade value. I think if they refused to return the keys, I may call the police and report the car stolen. But, I can't imagine that being necessary.

Insurance rates affected
 

I wish there were a publication available that showed which things on a car made the insurance rates higher/lower - or even which brands of cars made insurance rates higher or lower. That would be truly helpful!

I saw they recently opened up an authorized KBB Instant Cash Offer dealer in TV. They have no high pressure sales people, just you and the manager, you get a free valuation on what your vehicle is worth, and if you just want to sell your car, they write a check on the spot. I hear they even do mobile appraisals if you can’t come to them.
webuycarstrucks I’m sure they have a website but it won’t let me post it here
Hopes this helps

This link might help.

Click here.

Don’t give them keys.

You get lowball price.

I will add, if you ever drop your beware radar because the salesman seems honest, that just cost you an additional 1000. Car sales staff’s job is to do or say whatever it takes to get every penny they can out of you.

Happened to me.....
...When they delayed the return of keys for 45 minutes after I demanded my keys back ....
I called the non emergency police number..... told them I was being held against my will at the car dealership....

A cruiser happened to be nearby and the officer came in ...and after some discussion ...
took the salesman outside to talk... and explained why he should show respect to the officer.

Probably the salesman would have been better off IF he wasn't so disrespectful to the nice officer.

I told the officer ... .. just make him be less apt to do it again.

Good for you.

I just did it. It is a low ball offer.

The most important thing is to choose the kind of car you truly want to own.

Then compute the out-the door price you are willing to pay.

Go to a dealer that has the car you want to buy and offer your price.

If they do not accept your price after ten minutes, leave.

For example, last year we wanted to trade in our 2005 Honda Accord and buy a new Toyota RAV4. We offered $25K plus our Honda. They just talked for about 5 minutes, so we got up and started to leave. Then they said they would accept our offer.

We wrote them a check for $25K and drove the new car home.

Yes, it really was that simple.

I agree. It is that simple. I have done it several times. You just need to be willing to walk out the door.

When the salesman says he has to check with his manager about your offer do not say anything about how much you love the car. Those cubicles the salesmen sit in are bugged and they hear every word you say.

Yes, they can bugged, but I never go into their cubicle. I stay in the lobby.

A couple times they said they would accept our offer when we got up from our chair and grabbed our coats.

Another time they followed us out to the parking lot, and another time we got in our car and started driving away before they said our offer was accepted.

Of course, other times we got in our car and drove away and they did nothing. That proved to us that our offer was too low, so we went to another dealer and offered $100 more. Of course, that was in Virginia where there were six Honda dealers near us. It is different here in The Villages.

Sorta like buying a house in TV