Interior paint and primer advice.
 

We purchased a veranda that's a few years old and all the walls are the original textured white. I'd like to initially paint one wall as an accent wall. I've done a fair amount of painting over the years, but just want to be sure that these walls will take paint without a coat of primer first. Don't want to wind up with adhesion problems. Any do-it-yourselfers out there with advice?

Thanks!

It will be difficult for anyone to predict inter-coat adhesion between the old paint and new (I recommend testing a small area). Unless the surface energy of your current walls is extremely low, I would expect that you do not need a primer. There are many very good 100% acrylic paints produced by the likes of Behr, Benjamin Moore, and Sherwin Williams that will satisfy your needs. FYI, ignore all the talk of 1 coat paint products. Most require the use of a primer and it is likely you will need a second coat as the first coat is rarely perfect.

I used Behr Ultra from Home Depot to paint my interior here in The Villages. It's a paint/primer product that will cover with one coat in most cases.

There should be no need to do anything to the wall before painting however I do recommend getting a flat swiffer and wiping the wall first with it. You will be surprised how dirty that white swiffer sheet will be. Also really clean your baseboards and crown moulding first with a wet and dry cloth

If the existing surface is glossy you will need to apply a coat of primer. If in doubt do a test first.
1 - Clean the surface
2 - Apply a coat of paint to a small test area, exactly as you intend to apply if you were painting the entire wall. (that means applying the paint with a roller)
3 - Allow the paint to dry for a period of at least 24 hours.
4 - Give the painted area the "thumb nail test", that means try to remove the paint on the tested area with your thumb or finger nail.
If the paint on the tested area comes off with your finger nail, you need to apply a coat of primer first.

We used Sherwin Williams "Duration" to paint all the walls in our home when we moved here. The house was new, so don't know about older walls. Duration is primer and paint. And it is washable. It is not cheap.

I've not painted here but have in the past. Few do it but, it is a good idea to wash the wall before painting it. The sheet rock has already been painted, I don't think a primer will help. If, you use primer, you can add tints to it so as to make it close to the color you plan on painting the wall. I would expect our textured walls make the surface area more than we measure so you get less coverage per gallon than you might expect.
An accent wall. We have rounded corners and I expect most others do too. Where to stop and how to stop will be an adventure. I think you are looking at three coats.

Let it dry between coats. Few people do. You can save a great deal of time trying to clean rollers and brushes if you simply wrap them in plastic bags, or saran-wrap to keep them wet. You need rollers with plastic cores and nylon brushes.

Others have mentioned crown molding. I assume if you have crown molding, I assume all have kick molding it is refinished, glossy and possibly artificial materials. I've never dealt with this stuff. I'm sure you can find information on the internet. I used to sue a product called no sand that would soften and kill the gloss of glossy paint. You would apply it with a terry towel. It would clean and prevent any adhesion problems. Not sure if you can use it on plastic molding or if it is even made any longer. Many products, including oil based paints and varnishes are discontinued or hard to find.

OP, I have painted 4 rooms in our house, over the original builder flat off white paint, this was several years ago, and no problems. Here are some (I hope helpful) hints:
1. Use painters tape for all the areas with molding. Apply the tape and dry coat the edge, this will cause the painters tape to seal the edge. After the dry coat has dried 30 minutes or so, apply a regular coat of paint.
2. Be sure to get the correct knapp roller for the wall surface. This is very important.
3. Go over all areas with the roller at least 3 times in slightly different directions, ending in the same direction.
4. Before you move all the furniture back look over your work carefully, I am sure you will find areas where there will be little dots of the original color, we are still finding these several years after painting.
5. If your new paint is a wide color difference from the original, be prepared to apply a second coat. Allow the first coat to dry and carefully inspect the paint job. Most newer paints to a very good to excellent job at covering in one coat, but I had an experience of painting a light yellow over a medium blue, did not go well, actually took 4 coats to get a uniform coverage.

Finally, these textured walls are much harder (IMHO) to paint that a flat drywall, but on the good side they hide a lot of mistakes.

Hope this helps. good luck with your project.

My brother is a painting contractor and he uses Sherwin Williams exclusively. Most times you will need two coats, that primer in the paint is just a marketing gimmick.

I repainted over dark maroon paint with light gray, no problem any paint from any store will do, all come from same basic stock. Interior or exterior.

Thank you all for the advice. I was just curious if there was anything about the paint here that would complicate the job, but it sounds like that's not an issue. I'm ready to forge ahead!

Interior Painting
 

Pick up some Sherwin Williams or any other paint you want and Paint. Dust the walls first and apply 2 coats. You'll be just fine. Use Blue painters tape on the baseboards.
The retired half of Investment Painting. 55years experience. Any questions PM me. Len

Sorry to doubt you, but is this really true??

If so, way is there since a difference in price using the same brand name??

Paints are made with similar base components (i.e. film forming polymer, non-film forming polymer, resin, titanium dioxide, water and various additives for wetting, defoaming, cross-linking). The better polymers cost more, water costs less. The polymer system matters (acrylic, alkyd or epoxy). Additives that contribute to better rheology cost more. If you ever painted with a cheap paint, I bet you see the splatter on your arm. The more expensive paint does not do this. Understanding percent solids helps explain why some paints may be better. As for those that have better hiding, expect that formula to contain more titanium dioxide.

If I was painting today, I do not need the top of the line paint. I find a "B+" paint to do just fine. I also expect to paint 2 coats on any surface I work with. In my days working with Pratt & Lambert Paints I would have sworn by it. Today after being owned by Sherwin Williams for 20+ years I have no clue what they have done to this once great paint.

Lastly, when taping off, I paint my first coat along the tape line the same color as the trim. Therefore any bleed through matches the trim. I find there is always some bleed through.

Thanks
One is never too old to learn.:read:

If you do use tape, here is a type that is known to have a no bleed technology. I prefer to not use tape myself, so can't assure you of its claim.

Tape good when surface is flat Like around door framing, windows) if it textured (like most ceilings ) I find it’s best to use high end cut in brush if you got steady hand. If you tape line between textured and smooth surface you will get some bleed through and have to us cut brush to correct it.

Naturally more expense paint will cover better and maybe last longer as described by woodbear, not saying it’s same but will do vs 30 dollars gallon vs 80 dollars gallon.

It is great to hear from some who knows what he is talking about..

Surface light sand and prime.

No sanding necessary
 

Builders coat will act as a Primer. You don't have to sand "Textured Walls" that are painted with Flat Paint. Len. 55 years Experience

Sheep Skin Roller & a Handle
 

Recommend a sheep skin roller. They cost more but do a lot better job, holding a lot more paint than a synthetic roller.
Also, buy at least one handle for easier rolling and less stress on your arm and back. The handle is not for reaching up high, it is for better leverage on the roller. I bought two and cut one in half; using the short one in tight spaces like the hallway.

The "paint" that the builders use is more primer than regular paint. Try taking a wet cloth in a small hidden area, ie. a closet and rub a little. Doesn't take any effort to rubbing the paint off into the drywall...

:bigbow::bigbow: