Secondary clutch snap ring groove failure.
 

Heard loud bag as turning corner. Cart hard to accelerate and engine lugging down. Luckily I was close to home.
noticed the secondary clutch SPRIN (item 6) was spread apart which wasn’t normal. (due to snap ring failure and big spring separating the clutch SPRIN)

The snap ring holding the assembly together came off. Ok removed clutch, cleaned it up and tried to assemble it. But, it kept flying apart. The snap ring groove was worn (item 2) and wouldn’t seat the snap ring. Need three parts to fix it for $114. Ordered new OEM clutch assembly for $126.

Secondary Sheave replacement parts for 2012 Yamaha YDRAX2 PTV JC04

Items 2,6, and 9 are worn.

My 10 year old cart has 16K or so miles first major part I have to replace. FYI if interested?

By any chance did you try just replacing the snap ring? If it was damaged, they can snap out. I think I have seen these at the hardware stores and harbor freight, they need to be the correct size (diameter) and thickness. I sold these in working parttime in college.

I looked at the groove in shaft where snap ring goes worn . Tried flipping snap ring over and tried new snap ring, it still can apart. I was really luckily I was close to home cause it was forced un against the transaxle and the short distance it became hot as firecracker. Have photos, but can’t figure out how to post without using hppt//.

Secondary clutch washer (2014 Yamaha)
 

I was having problems with the washer (part #13) wearing and the clutch coming off the shaft. This was happening about once a month. Called to see what the fix was. 2 different shops told me the shaft has to be replaced, $600 to $700. It was cheaper to replace the washer when it wore. Finally I remover the secondary clutch and cleaned it and cleaned the spline on the shaft. Before reassembling I greased the splined portion of the shaft. Now it lasts at least a year at a time. So now as part of my annual maintenance I remove the secondary clutch and grease the spline. No more problem. I had been putting a few pumps of grease in the fitting on the clutch every year with no help.

That’s weird, I would think for that washer to fail there would have to be slack (not holding the assembly tight). I would try shimming up at washer 16 making it little thicker see if that might be problem.

Second thought, it could be bushing (16) worn or not machined to correct spec’s creating slack or too large? IMO I’d just buy replacement clutch see it that fixes the problem? It not you have one spare to swap out? Here what mine looks like, maybe can compare if see any visual difference from you’re?

I figured you had tried that, seems odd that the shaft groove was that badly damaged, thanks for the info, I will keep an eye on ours.

Very little lip left at the end (worn) item 6 wear probably contributed to failure of item 2.

Electric carts!!!!!

Another reason to have an electric cart. ????

And how many batteries have you replaced in 10 years and over 16K miles. Let’s see $126 vs ……… to each his own.

This happens frequently with year models 2007 - 2014. The washer will keep wearing out and the clutch will slip outwards causing the belt to come off. I am told by repair guys that you have to replace the input shaft and that part is very hard to find and costs around $500. I am on my third bolt, washer, and spacer (around $12 per set) and there is a chance the shaft will fly apart and more or less ruin the cart if you keep doing this. I finally found the shaft and hope it comes in quickly so my repair guy can replace it before this washer wears out.

Electric carts have the same type of clutches/drivetrain pieces that gas carts do, just the engine/motor is different.
All golf carts have undercarriage maintenance, gas or electric, but electric have the additional cost of replacing their batteries (lead or lithium) every so many years, which can run into the thousands of $$$$

Input shafts are not the same on electric vs gas

Are you’re talking about the input shaft on the transaxle? I don’t see how that player?, it’s splined shaft with threaded hole in middle. Now if you talking about item 2 on The parts diagram of the secondary clutch assembly (see above on my post) which part of the clutch assy. then, yes mine is worn on the end where the snap ring seats which allows the snap ring to come off and the SPRIN to separate do to the big spring pressure all parts of the secondary clutch assembly.

if you drive cart with secondary clutch separation probably damage the transaxle. But, the will not go full throttle and struggles to gain speed and Within short distance the secondary clutch get extremely hot. Which mine did, melted all grease out and was smoking hot. Replacing the clutch assembly IMO shouldn’t fix you’re problem cause it eliminates the worn parts.

Here pic of the transaxle shaft. Mine is not worn can you see any wear on you’re transaxle shaft? If that’s what you’re saying wrong?

I would think washer (teflon) item 16 would be washer wearing, it take the space up and frictional pressure from the clutch changing from under drive to over drive. None of them parts are worn on mine. Just the clutch half item 2 which wore snap ring and the SPRIN.

All I can say is DAMN I like people (don’t want to say men, dudes or guys) that work on their own “stuff” ! That is so far removed from most posters on this site. I can’t believe the OP wasn’t moved immediately to some obscure category but I am glad it wasn’t ! If I had posted it you could bet it would be categorized.

Your post and repair from 4/18 don't you think that might have caused your problem
“ Clutches and grease.”

No, there was no repair, but cleaning. the wear on shaft where the snap ring attaches cause the snap ring to come off. Also the snap ring was worn on one side where it had been moving and over time wore the slot enough for parts to come apart. The dirty grease may have accelerated the ware of metal but it was just worn out after 10 years . The reason I cleaned it to begin with the clutch was acting up, but I didn’t remove it and inspect parts until till it came apart.

I was aircraft engine mechanic for 40 plus years. I can usually fix about anything unless I’m too lazy to do it or research it. Plus, I don’t like paying triple for something I can do as long as I’m still able.

Awesome. YouTube repair videos are my best friend now

The snap ring breaking is common, its a manufacturing error. Yamaha has improved the design on the replacment clutches, but the failure is very common.
It was mentioned about the secondary clutch washer getting loose, this is a know issue in the repair industry since 2007. Its a 1 time fix if the tech knows what to look for in the first service of the cart, issue becomes most dont check it and that allows it to go to failure. But in reality its a 2 minute fix. Its only after it has gone to failure a few times that it starts to ruin other parts and then it just snow balls from there.

While waiting on the new secondary clutch I done some filing. Got 1 1/16 snap ring which tad small than 28MM. Worked the ring groove and this snap ring fit squarely. Assembled it and it’s holding. Test drove cart and clutch not working right. Now at least can move the cart it I have to.


See my spring compressor I made.

I don’t have washer problem. But I see some have the Teflon washer or spacer under the washer and bolt. It that the big secret to the 2min fix? If not why not let the guy know that has the problem waiting on the 500 dollar shaft?

His washer has fallen off many times and he is already being told he needs a new shaft. It needs to be looked at with professional eyes at this point to see if can be fixed in the first place.

Said he did and needs 500 dollar shaft which what he trying to get. He never would say what shaft. I suspect it’s the output shaft in the transaxle?

Clutch came today, 15 mins and on the road again….

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