Cold Water Valve pops out on its own
 

Our cold water shut off valve pops out on its own every day. Does anyone else experience this? What is the solution?

Which valve? Is this at a toilet or a sink? I would buy a pressure gauge and test your water pressure at an outside hose bibb to see if your pressure is too high. It should be about 60 PSI. Also, check the drain pan under the water heater for evidence that the pressure relief valve has been tripping and spewing water into the drain pan. You can also place a plastic cup under the relief valve discharge pipe to see if the relief valve is occasionally tripping. Tap the expansion tank at the top of the water heater with a metal tool to determine if it may be full of water. It should have air in it and have a hollow sound. Also, the water temperature may be set too high. If these things check out, then you probably need to replace the shutoff valve.

Oh my. Sounds like 5 trips to Lowes and then calling a plumber

I agree with above, the expansion tank had probably failed and is full of water. This is a simple 10 minute (or so) replacement of the expansion tank. Be sure to precharge the new expansion tank to your water pressure, ours is 65 to 70 PSI. These tanks typically last 5 to 7 years. Tanks are available at Lowe"s be sure to get the correct tank, NOT the one for wells about $50 or so.

I have had several of my push/pull shutoff valves shutoff and have to be reset. I have read numerous posts over the years talking about checking water pressure, install new, better valves, etc. Years ago I decided to try a cheap almost free solution:

I drilled a small hole in the plastic valve and secured the valve in the on position (pushed in) using a plastic cable tie. This has worked perfectly on multiple valves. Of course, you will need to keep a supply of spare ties because, when/if you need to turn off the valve you must cut and remove the tie! See attached photo.

I agree with others that most likely the expansion tank on top of the water heater. I recently replaced mine. I bought the new one at Lowes for about $60.

I would not recommend this. Also, I would not recommend replacing a fuse with a piece of wire.

Everyday ! One bath and everyday in the work sink in garage. Common with other neighbors too, cheapest construction option, but "cure" is traditional (usually brass and expensive) shut off valves like those used in "the old days"... LOL. It's variations in water pressure (this from retired 47 year career plumber on our block).

Check your expansion tank, the cycling of the hot water heater causes the pressure swings if the expansion tank has failed (it is full of water). The next item to fail will probably cause a lot of water damage.

That's not solving the problem. That's putting a band-aid on it. You need to fix what is causing the valves to close. Have you checked the expansion tank?

As others have stated it's probably the expansion tank on the hot water heater. I also swapped out those pop-out shutoffs with shark bite shutoffs when I swapped out our bathroom sinks. I don't trust those things.

Comparing my using a cable tie to replacing a fuse with a piece of wire is not a fair comparison.

The water valve is not a safety device. It is simply placed where it is as a matter of convenience. If you didn't have such a valve and you needed to replace a sink (or toilet) you would have to turn the water off to the entire house.

My villa does not even have an expansion tank. So clearly some of my valves may be getting a little weaker with age and occasionally pop off. Sure, I could replace them, or perhaps unstall an expansion tank which is not required, but why bother spending the money? My solution has worked flawlessly for years AND I haven't even had to use any of the valves in question! So, I haven't had to cut and replace any cable ties!!

It is true that you don't need to install an expansion tank, but it is a code requirement for new construction, and it is a good idea. But, as a minimum, you should buy a pressure gauge and measure the water pressure in your house. You should also place a plastic cup under the discharge pipe for the relief valve on the water heater to see if it is tripping. It trips when the pressure exceeds 150 psi, but the valve will only open for a short time and then close, releasing only a small amount of water. Your water pressure may be too high, which could damage your plumbing fixtures and could cause a catastrophic failure of your water heater.

This happened to a neighbor. While she was visiting across the street for awhile, the valve popped and caused a flood in her home. Most of us replaced the pop outs with handles that turn.

You DO NEED the expansion tank, there is a check valve in the line between your house and the street. When the water heater cycles the expansion tank suppresses the pressure of the expanding heated water.

Have a plumber change out the expansion tank and replace all the shutoff valves while they are there.

This is true unless you have a tankless water heater, According to the 2018 International Plumbing Code (IPC) section 608.3, tankless water heaters do not require a thermal expansion tank when no water storage device is used. However, there are a few exceptions. If a tankless water heater is being used in conjunction with a tank water heater or a recirculating system that utilizes a storage tank in a closed plumbing system, an expansion tank is required to control thermal expansion.This does not apply directly to most homeowners who have a tankless water heater system.

How do you pressurize a new expansion tank?

You can do it with a handheld bicycle pump. Measure your house water pressure, and pump the expansion tank up to about the same pressure.

that works? interesting.... I wonder how the CPVC is handling the additional pressure .....

Note that the Accor push-pull valves are not supposed to close on their own, regardless of the pressure. These valves have a 10 year warranty that, amazingly, includes materials and labor. If the valve is less than 10 years old, I would suggest calling the Accor company and file a warranty claim:

Supply Stop Valves | Push Fit Technology | PUSHON® | ACCOR Technology
800-447-5848

I did!!! It’s was the. Expansion tank...

I agree wholeheartedly. Only an idiot would replace a fuse with a piece of wire. Everyone knows you should use a penny.

Those button valves are a cheap piece of crap. One failed and flooded our neighbors house and another one leaked and damaged our friends home. Fortunately, our home was renovated before we purchased it and the renovations included new ADA height toilets with new throw valves on the feeder lines. Replacement of those button valves should be on the to do list if you ever need to hire a plumber.

14 turn shut off valves are about $10 each. Most handymen should be able to do that for you or DIY. Plenty of Youtube videos out there to show you how. Rather than just do those two, replace them all at the same time.

Why Rube Goldberg something when it’s simple to fix it once and done.

I'm not wasting a penny. I use a washer.

Pop Shut Off Valves
 

Simple solution is to replace the push-pull valves with more durable valves. When the valve or the push/pull handle pops off and causes a flood it will cost a lot more than a $10 (or less) valve.:boom: If you are handy it is fairly straight forward, if not a plumber can easily do it.

Our home, built new in 2019 does NOT have an expansion tank above the hot water heater, probably because we have tankless water heaters.:icon_wink:

Have you checked the price of washers lately?

You have to ask yourself why is it popping? To stop it from popping by forcing it closed you did not solve the problem or the reason it popped? Forcing it shut did not solve the problem why did it pop?
If you’re in a house with a electric or gas water heater and stuff like this happens I could almost guarantee you you have a bad expansion tank! If your tank is anywhere between three and five years old and you do not know how to check it replace it before a huge problem can occur. If one of your water valves pops underneath your sink and it blows you have a disaster on your hands.

1000% correct!!!
Unfortunately most people moving here from far away are not used to dealing with expansion tanks google it asap

Absolutely change those cheap junk valves!!!

Ok makes sense except……

It is Florida code since 2000 I believe that it is mandatory here to have an expansion tank unless you have a tankless water heater..

Basically most homes built south of 466 and north of 44 have expansion tanks. And a few neighborhoods south of 44.
If you do not have an expansion tank on top of your hot water tank then you have a thermal expansion valve and they can also fail in fact most homes over 10 years those thermal expansion valves are leaking and most plumbers will come in and replace them with an expansion tank because it’s Florida code now.

I don’t like the expansion tanks because they fail constantly between three and five years. But you can’t fight Florida code. I personally think it’s an extremely poor design and every single home we do service on with we check the expansion tank and approximately 70% we find bad that are more than 3 to 5 years old. I believe they were improperly installed from day one because they never pressurize those tanks correctly therefore failing prematurely.

Step 1. Pressurize the tank before installation to the house pressure.

I have seen several plumbers in fact some of the main plumbers in the villages that do not do this? They take it off the shelf at 25 psi slap it on and they fail in three years? Now your expansion tank Brand New and is 50 psi below the operating pressure so of course it will fail prematurely.

You couldn’t be more right but some people ignore it and pay the price. It is so important to check your expansion tank annually just Google it it’s simple.

Correct but keep in mind The water authority pressure can fluctuate anywhere between 20 and 40 psi randomly especially when they’re flushing out the lines in your neighborhood.

The cpvc shouldn’t be the concern. What is of concern are the plumbing fitting in your house it’s always possible for a leak especially when the pressure gets too high.

The expansion tank is designed to handle the thermal expansion of water as it heats up in the water heater, preventing excessive water pressure in your home. If the water pressure gets too high it can damage valves and plumbing fixtures, joints and supply pipes and the water heater it’s self.

Bottom line if your expansion tank is more than five years old and it tests good , replace it don’t wait for the failure.

I really didn't need the plumbing lesson , it was more of a "wtf is that crap" with drilling a hole and a zip tie.... plus a hit on 'the developer' using CPVC.... which we all should know gives out fairly easily.


but thanks for thinking I didn't know that already...... appreciate it.

Replace them with better ones. Worth the $$$.

I agree. Note that if you don't have an expansion tank, when you replace your water heater, you should pay the extra money to have the plumber install one. And, if you are getting competitive quotes, some plumbers will include the expansion tank, and some will not. You need to ask, so you are comparing "apples to apples" in the quotes. Even though the code requires an expansion tank for new installs, some plumbers will not automatically install one. They will claim that they are doing a "repair", not a new install, so the code requirement does not apply. This is a gray area loophole in the code.

Put a picture of the valve so a plumber can see what it looks like what you discribe makes no sense

Some people will argue about anything. My OPINION, if, you or relatives sell that place no one will buy it without the seller putting it right.