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What is best oil for your POV?
What is the best brand of motor oil and what type? Do the benefits warrant the higher costs.
Mobile 1, Pennzoil Platinum, and Amsoil seem to get the most recommendations. I chose Pennzoil Platinum since it is made from natural gas and the claim is that it results in fewer impurities. Had Take5 change my oil. And FWIW, they have a 15 YEARS OR 500,000 MILE PROTECTION GUARANTEE. No automotive shop around here uses it so you have to buy it from Walmart(Much cheaper than the competition) |
"Bob is the oil guy" is a forum that discusses this topic extensively. Often with lab results. There you will get far more intelligent observations, vice simple opinions, based on facts than you will here.
Bob is the oil guy |
I used standard Pennzoil until the vehicle called for synthetic and then I switched to Mobile 1. I drove 200K miles on two vehicles and nearly 100K on a few more with no oil-related problems. Can't say what is best but that worked for me.
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I use Mobile 1, but I think any brand name synthetic oils will do.
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synthetic oils prices, is there really a difference between synthetic oils that sell for $3.50 a quart over oil that sell for over $8.00 a quart? |
Without a doubt. Amsoil. It’s one of the very few Fully synthetic oils available. Great protection. Google their site.
We have only used Amsoil in our MB for many years. Tremendous warranty. We get our fluid changes at Accurso Auto near WM on 466. |
I have been using Amsoil for many many years because it’s the best in my opinion. However, I recently began using Royal Purple because the price of Amsoil has become outrageous (my 50 HP Kubota tractor takes almost 3 gallons of motor oil). Royal Purple is a very high quality synthetic oil at about the third of the price of Amsoil. A poor quality oil filter negates the advantages of a good synthetic oil, so don’t try to save a few dollars on the filter, I use WIX XP filters. I will continue to use Amsoil small engine oil on the golf carts since they only take a quart each oil change.
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Mobil 1.
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Amsoil _IS_ the best overall synthetic oil. That said, unless you're really pushing an engine very hard, any synthetic oil is just fine. As to golf carts and other splash lubricated engines, regular oil often performs better because the oil is stickier rather than slippery. It sticks to friction surfaces rather than "sheeting". In engines with an oil pump synthetic is better generally except in some cases on propane fueled engines. Synthetics can cause coking when in the presence of the blowby products from propane combustion. In those cases, you should run an oil specifically designed for propane engines. |
Most likely a classic example of not understanding statistics. Most Subaru WRXs that have spun bearing were probably using Mobil 1 because Mobil 1 is probably used in more Subaru WRXs than any other oil. A reputable reference with real data to support your claim would be nice otherwise it is just conjecture.
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I doubt you will find any data to support any significant differences between synthetic oils in real world applications. Use an oil that meets the API, Delvac, or other specific manufacturer standard (such as Porsche has) and meets the viscosity range recommended by the manufacturer (such as 0W-20). In many cases, this will be a synthetic only. Change the oil according to the "severe use" recommendation since most people's driving falls under the "severe use" category. If you really want to try to fine tune your change interval then have a used oil analysis done. Blackstone Labs is one such company that can advise you on the health of your oil.
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Mobil one 5w-30 shears too quickly. The particular Subi engines(ej20) with an issue have a poorly lubricated main at #4 and it's slightly a different size which changes the angular velocity. Once the mobil 1 shears down a bit, it galls, heats, seizes and spins. The problem is generally solved in one of two ways. Run higher oil pressure or don't use Mobil 1 5w-30. |
I agree Bob14563,, but it’s just a matter of choice, but if you start with an oil stay with it, personally I like Blended Synthetic oils. I use to always use Quaker State some liked it & some didn’t. Havoline they used to say it was the worst oil because it had a paraffin base, don’t know because I never used it we used to have some old retired race car drivers come to where I work & they swore that Wolves Head was the best, but that brand is no longer sold! Out of the 4 you mentioned I like Mobile 1, but again some liked it & some didn’t. Just change your oil like your car manufacturer tells you.
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Please provide a link to the specific data you are referring to.
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You'll get a million opinions on oil. So here's mine. SHELL ROTELLA T. It's full synthetic.
I used it in my 2002 Honda GoldWing (engine is a boxer 6 cylinder). I rode it in all types of weather all over this country and had around 83,000 miles on it when I sold it in 2015. Never had an engine problem in all that time, and it ran smoother than silk and as strong as could be. Also, the Shell Rotella T is really inexpensive compared to other oils. |
I think in todays vehicles, and I think we can find many experiences that car engines and oils are so well made today any oil that meets the manufacturers specs work perfectly well. The engines rarely fail first any longer. It is transmissions and all the electronics that fail first. I believe all standard gas engine cars will last 200k miles with just regular oil changes and maintenance. The key is to keep things clean. Oil, filters, air filters, vacuum out filter boxes etc. I have had a few cars now with over 200k miles each. Toyota and Hyundai
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API | Oil Categories SP Introduced in May 2020, designed to provide protection against low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), timing chain wear protection, improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons and turbochargers, and more stringent sludge and varnish control. API SP with Resource Conserving matches ILSAC GF-6A by combining API SP performance with improved fuel economy, emission control system protection and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing fuels up to E85. |
Wtf d pov sd4 and why cant people spell the words
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AS far as oil goes there are many many good ones out there. The very best thing you can do is to stick to one brand you like and never ever mix it with something else. In todays oils there is NO NEED to add anything extra. One person stated that HAVOLINE was the worst. I've got news for him, 1 it is not a paraffene base stock,{that is all Pennsy oils like Quaker State}. In the conventual oil world, HAVOLINE is one of the very best. A quick word about Pennsy oils, they are VERY good lubricants but the paraffene stocks were highly resistant to cleaners and as a result they sludge up real bad. Dig thru the sludge you will find no wear unless the sludge plugged up the oil gallies or holes.
Todays synthetics are superior to most convential oils. Mercedes and Porsche both recommend Mobile 1. Ferrari recommends Penzoil. Surprise Lexus recommends their own oil which is a conventual oil 0 weight-20 weight. Untill recently no synthetics went to 0 weight.One observation I myself have foundis one Oil says it has liquid moly in it. Moly {molibiumdisulfide} looks like grafite,black. We used to have to mix up the stuff to use on F-4 jet aircraft. Nasty looking stuff, anyhow the mentioned oil is as clest as water, so think about it. In mu Posrche I use Mobile 1 for the warranty and mu Lexus and Volvo use Castrol synthetic . Happy motoring. |
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