Any experience with using ceramic auto finish?
 

Yes, I have googled the topic, I'm looking for local observations.
No, I don't want to talk about dog-poop, zombies, or north vs. south Villages.

I have a 20 year old car and for the last 10 years, the Florida sun has beat the heck out of it sitting in the driveway, so much so that the paint has deteriorated.
I don't have any shade available, I don't want to use a cover.

Soon enough, I'll be moving that car and replacing it with my newer 10 year old car when I buy a new one. The 10 year old car is in great shape and I'll like to do better preserving the finish. A DIY ceramic auto finish seems reasonable. So, what do you thing?

1) Brands used , with pro and con.
2) Results, short term and long term?

Thanks, ~peace~

I just started using McGuire's around 4-5 months ago, and I have noticed that the pollen seems to not stick as much, and the shine seems to last longer than the previous hand waxing I was doing.

Had my car here in UK done twice by professional installer.
The car is 14 years odd and looks pristine.
First time lasted nearly 5 years, now into second year with latest application.
I live in a rural area, with lots of winter mud and crap on the car.
I think it is great protection, and recommend it.
Latest coating was about $850 to have it done, which was a big cost rise from first coating, but have no idea of cost in US.
There are DIY kits, but I'm just lazy!

How often do you wash your car?

You probably read proper surface prep and paint correction is essential for a good ceramic coat. Best done by a professional. This takes time/$$$.

I've had good luck using a spray wax (Turtle Wax Ice Spray Wax) once a month after washing the car. Spray on before drying the car.

It is a lot of work, and essential for a perfect finish.
Degreasing, clay bar whole car etc.
Does something with headlights and windows that remove imperfection from glass
My man takes two days.

Right on, the key is to get the surface perfect before application, that means dewaxing, washing, stripping of topcoat, clar bar then a final prep step. Difficult to do without a power buffer. The coating goes on in 10 minutes, the prep work can take 2 days.

Right on, the key is to get the surface perfect before application, that means dewaxing washing, stripping of topcoat, clar bar then a final prep step. Difficult to do without a power buffer. The coating goes on in 10 minutes, the prep work can take 2 days.

Its actually kind of fun to do, if you have the time.

Use that brand car wash, black car shines like new .

Ceramic auto products
 

I have been very impressed with Suds Lab ceramic products .They sell a complete line of cleaners and protectors available from Walmart. I have had very good results with little effort required. SudsLab

I bought a buffer from Griots Garage, some buffer pads and their "Complete Compound". I bought the buffer because I had a car, pickup and a 41' trailer to do. This compound is used to strip everything from the finish and to buff out minor scratches. I found that it works really great. At that time, I Googled "best ceramic car wax" and came up with the "Chemical Guys" Hydroslick as one of the best (it was $40 for 16 oz at Walmart). It really works well, but the Florida sun does indeed limit the life of it. If you Google ceramic waxes now, you will get a new list as companies are continually coming up with better (higher SiO2) formulas. Read instructions on each product and pick the one that seems easiest to put on and remove.

The finish of a 20 year old vehicle, left outside in the Florida sun for 10 years, isn't likely to be "renewed" by a ceramic treatment.

The life expectancy of a 2 stage paint process (which all cars have these days), is somewhere between 10-15 years. An older vehicle with 1 stage paint, actually has more "color" on the vehicle and can sometimes be brought back, with proper technique.

As others have mentioned, the prep is a LOT of work and the ceramic can only protect what's underneath it ... not make what's underneath it, significantly better or newer.

If the clear coat is "flakeing" sand and repaint if the paint is oxidized compound buffing to restore the finish. Follow up with good wax or ceramic coating. I used Graphene ceramic spray after claying the paint and buffing with a polishing compound then wiped entire car in alcohol to remove compound residue. hand app;ied the ceramic per instruction, result outstanding shine and duability.

I use it.
 

I have a 2019 RAM 2500 black in color. I had it done from new professionally and again a few months ago. I wouldn't attempt to do it myself even if I were younger. The truck is outside all the time. I think it looks showroom new and I get unsolicited comments all the time, telling me how good it looks. They are almost always surprised to learn that it is 5 years old. Given the size of my vehicle, it isn't cheap, but it will last and most likely even longer than 5 years with the better products professionally applied. Remember that you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear.

CERAKOTE® Rapid Ceramic Paint Sealant (12 oz.) – Now 50% More With a Premium Sprayer! - Maximum Gloss & Shine – Extremely Hydrophobic – Unmatched Slickness - Pro Results. See it on Amazon. BUT I would use a clay mitt first and it's recommended to use an iron remover also. Many Youtube videos on this subject.

My auto came with the coating already applied. After every wash it looks like it was just waxed.

Not sure it will be good on already old paint. I had mine done when car was brand new and it looked like new 10 years later when I sold the car. I also never waxed it and finish was shiny and smooth as glass.

I truly appreciate the feedback and tips.
To clarify, I'm not doing the 20 year old car, I'll pass that along to one of my kids for a 2nd vehicle. I'm planning to do the 10 year old car that's been kept in the garage.

Back in the colder climate I did my car every six months with Turtle Wax Hybrid. Like others said I had initially given it a good wash/degrease and clay bar to get the surface clean. The top surfaces seemed to need to clay bar, sides no big deal. Subsequent treatments I didn't bother with the clay bar. It is pretty easy to apply. It didn't discolor any black vinyl trim. I used Cerakote on cloudy headlights and that lasted 2 years.

There is a large variety of ceramic coat products. Last I checked there was no objective way to compare strength or concentration of them. The Turtle wax product is cheap and easy. Other products require more detailed application and I think the car needs to sit for a day inside while it cures. Cerakote (at amazon) has a new paint finish product I wouldn't mind trying. Their headlight and vinyl trim products worked wonders on our cars and are reasonably priced.

I use Mothers ceramic wash and wax now and used Griots before this. Easy to wash the grime off when I decide to wash my car and I don’t need to use my wipers when others have to.

Speaking of pollen..... it doesn't really stick to the sides of my SUV, but the hood gets covered and has pitted because of it. (2009 car) I wonder how I can make it look silky again like the rest of the vehicle. Maybe compound the hood?

I have a guy who waxes my cars...

https://64.media.tumblr.com/d84ac863...c81bce39a1.gif

I haven't found a great difference in the "premium-ish" consumer grade products. One option is to wash, clay bar, and hit it with a combo produce that will polish and wax in one step such as this...

Ceramic Car Wax & Polish | Liquid Wax & Polish | Hybrid Solutions

It'll take a dual action polisher to give it the best chance but it might make it look great. And...if it doesn't then you could call in a professional and let them take a crack at it.

Once it looks good you can keep it good with nice, thick, fluffy microfiber towels and a waterless wash-and-wax product like this

Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate 16 oz. - Skys The Limit Car Care

(mix it in a spray bottle/bug sprayer like this and it goes on fast..something like this Amazon.com)

And then a few spritzes with your ceramic detailer to keep the coating in good shape...something like this (but lots of options)

Ceramic Wax 3-in-1 Detailer | Spray Wax & Detailer | Hybrid Solutions

Congrats on your new hobby LOL ;)

Joe

If you are going to keep the car for several years and it is going to be outside a lot then I recommend getting a professional ceramic coating done. Get an estimate in Wildwood at “On the Spot” detailing.

CeramicPro and FeynLab
 

I had CeramicPro applied to my previous car and Feynlabs on my current car - both professionally applied and both when new.

Feynlabs is holding up much better and resists water spots better. Still get spots on both tho. CeramicPro needed to be reapplied after two years. Feynlabs is more expensive.

Love the hydrophobic coatings - so easy to wash and can dry with a blower to avoid paint swirls.

TEC582 at Amazon
 

Try this stuff

Amazon.com

I just got my second gallon. A little goes a long way. Provides a super slick finish and keeps the paint looking great. I usually have a detailer give the truck a good wash and wax then apply two coats of this stuff. Makes bug splatters easier to clean off too. Brake dust cleans off chrome wheels with ease.
We even use it on our shower glass enclosure and mirrors making them easier to clean streak free.
A professional ceramic coating is very expensive if done properly. My detailer actually advised against it for a daily driver vehicle.
Good luck.

ceramic
 

Used Carpro Cquartz Ceramic on Amazon and it is still amazing after two years. And as orders have noted the prep is critical. Applied in the Garage.

Ceramic Coatings
 

I had a Ceramic coating put on by Total Recon in Leesburg, 352-535-0299.
They a true professional shop and do it correctly. Not done in the street or garage, but an air conditioned shop with lifts and high powered lights. Fairly priced
Mike Roth

There would never be a vehicle in my life that I would consider owning, motorcycle, boat, car/truck, golfcart, or airplane etc.
that I would let parked outside and let the Florida heat destroy the finish and tires.

If it has any value what-so-ever, It would have to be garaged, otherwise I would feel it is would a bad investment
and a eye soar to the neighbors.

But that's just me.

Thanks for sharing, Michael.
Side notes: you're off topic and the word is spelled "sore".

I’ve used Tim’s Pro Auto Spa 352-277-4721 for our MINI Coopers.

Michael, you are fortunate to have the option to garage your vehicles/toys. I still work full-time and my car is parked outside all week long as they have no garage facilities. I have appreciated the ideas here to maintain my vehicle as long as I can.

First off there is little ROI on a 10 yr old car. The paint really has to be 'showroom'. With that said here are the items you'll have issues with.

1) before anything you need to wash and clay the existing finish. putting ceramic overold finish is as useless as putting a floor over existing tile.

2) once clayed and dried, tyically this is when imperfections are fixed, assuming you have no idea how to do that part let's move on because it can be lot of effort.

3) ceramic goes on in SMALL sections. Reson is flash time can be fast depending on conditions. I would never attempt this outside in the sun only in a garage with 100% shade. The reason is that with any good ceramic product (which doesn't come in combination with wax) when it flashes the longer it sits the harder it is to wipe down and remove the flashing. Which is very necessary if you want it to work correctly.

4) I do the entire car, wheels windows, etc. Some ceramics are specific some are general. At your level ofuse you'll get 5 yrs out of 1 application. AS LONG AS, you use a 'rejuvination' product.

5) for people in your lane, I highly recommend CarPro line of products as they are far easier to work with and flexible enough to give you the flash time you will probably need until you get the hang of it. You'll also notice they have product for every application. Side note the leather ceramic product is far superior than any other leather product. I've used it for years and the leather is better than fine every time.

Car Cleaning Products | Pro Detailing Products

6) make sure you clear your day. but this is better than spending on things that are gimmics like maguires, turtle wax, etc. those products are blends and don't do what a solid line product would do in the long run.

Until the sun burns clear coat off if sets outside? :shocked: but it you trade every 3 or so years you’ll never have that problem