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Downsizing hot water tank
We have a 40-gallon tank (electric) that is 26 years old and seems to be in perfect working order.
When it does fail, does it make sense to install a smaller one as there are only the two of us? Most online references say a 30-gallon would be sufficient. Would it be cheaper to run, or are they all so well-insulated these days... Thank you |
Definitely a bad idea. 40 gallons is a pretty standard size, and a buyer will expect at least a 40 gallon tank. A smaller tank may not even comply with the building code. Any savings on electricity would be minimal. Note that, if you have a large spa type tub, you would probably need a 60 gallon water heater.
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I assume you mean 30 gallon rather than 3 gallon.
Some thoughts: - Taking into consideration the expectations of a potential buyer makes sense. You wouldn't want to lose a sale because of this choice. - Cost may help you decide. A quick search turned up prices in the $500 range for 30 gallon but closer to $400 for 40 gallon. - Whatever size you buy, you will still need the same amount of energy to heat the water. Using 20gals of hot water means heating 20gals of water again; it doesn't matter if that water goes into a 30 gallon tank or a 40 gallon tank. - I suspect that the tanks are pretty efficient at holding water at a certain temperature so you wouldn't see much difference, if any, between the 30gal and 40gal tanks. (Note: Unless the 30gal is designed to save space and includes less insulation which would result in costing a little more to hold temperature) |
IMO I wouldn’t. You say two people, probably be ok as long as two of don’t take shower right after each other and leave water running the whole time both are showering. If your house like mine I got run shower for 30 to 45 seconds just to get hot water back to master shower. Add time takes two people to shower if they don’t cut water off between washing pretty much use up 20 plus more gallons which means the second person will get Luke warm water. Now if like me I rinse off, shut shower off, wash my face, turn shower on to rinse, shut off while washing my hair, turn on to rinse, shut off while washing my body, then rinse. I haven’t timed and measured but I bet I’m using less than 10 gallons, which 1/4 used just get hot water back there. I don’t think see any benifits using smaller tank?
Probably won’t save anything on water or price of water heater, 40 gallons the popular choice in most cases? |
and if you have guest with a 30 gal , and try to take 4 showers in a row someone's getting a cold shower. stay with a 40 gal. water heater.
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OP, apparently the code does not require a specific water heater size. But, if you do downsize the water heater tank, I would suggest that you provide full and clear disclosure to a buyer. Otherwise, you could face a lawsuit for deviating from the builder's standard size.
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Thank you all, as ever, for your sage advice.
Hopefully this one will keep going for a few more years - surprisingly, the insurance company has never raised the issue of the age of our major appliances. |
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30 gal and 40 gal electric are the same price according to Mike Scott Plumbing
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To Arctic Fox, Sorry you are late to the game. The insurance companies have already caught up to this topic. We had to send them a photo of our water heater prior to the approval of our policy application. This was almost 3 years ago.
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I used to have an 80 gal on a timer before moving here in 2020. It was the best! I had electricion put a timer on the wall for it. Timed it to come on at 5 AM and 5 PM for 2 hours. That thing was great. Always had hot water. Low cost to run it on a timer. Two people in the house (thought of resale on size).
Would love to add a timer to this 14 yr system. Will wait for the tank to RIP. Had instant in my first house here. I don't like instant... wastes 2-3 gal of water waiting for instant to reach the faucets. Would use a garden can to catch the waste for plants. |
It’s all based on your lifestyle, not 1 size fits all. I would Never go smaller than 60 gallon and I would put a recirculating system in if possible.
Do you and your spouse take baths/showers at the same time or back to back? Do you have guests that all of you take showers/baths back to back? This determines how much hot water you need. This is why any new home in the last 4 or 5 years (including ours) has a tankless system in place. We can take 1 bath or 4 baths/showers concurrently or back to back with no issues. The problem with tankless is that they are inefficient when using electricity, they need natural gas to operate best, and gas is only south of 44 (or maybe around 44). They also make heat pump water heaters that might save you money in the long run, and if you go this direction, I’d probably go with an 80 gallon to be safe. |
Hot water heater
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Buyer beware
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Consider Going Larger
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You have options:
1) tanked or tankless. There have been a number of conversations on this forum specific to The Villages about tankless water heaters in the newer sections and their inability to provide hot water quickly. 2) size of tanked water heater... One option that is mentioned by many plumbers is to use a slightly smaller tank and then turn the heat up. Very very hot but use a mixing valve on top of the tank. |
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Go tankless. I love mine.
In the summer, when it is 100°F outside, the water starts at 100°F, saving electricity. You also save a lot of electricity by not keeping a tank of unused water hot. It does take longer for the hot water to get to the tub. Rather than the 10 seconds for a tank, it is closer to 40 seconds. Yes, some people do whine and moan about that. For the money savings, it is worth it. Edit: just checked, my electric bill in June was $55. |
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The Watts pump is an ingenious device that sits on top of the outlet of your water heater. The pump runs at a very low pressure and the electric motor is a synchronous type like those used i electric clocks and cost pennies a day to operate. If you are really frugal, the pump has a built-in timer and you can choose the hours for it to operate. The ingenious part of the Watts system is that the hot water is circulated or returned to the hot water tank through the cold water lines. This is done by a small manifold installed at the faucet that is furtherest from the hot water tank. When all of the faucets, showers, washers etc. in the house are turned off, the manifold directs the hot water into the cold water line which carries it back to the tank. When any faucet etc in the house is open, the valve in the manifold closes and only cold water runs in the cold water line. Depending on the model of your house, the incoming hot water line may "split and run hot water in two directions. In that case, you will need a manifold at the last faucet on each line. The Watts pump with one manifold costs around $200. The extra manifold is under $50. They are easy to install for a DIYer, although you do have to lie on your back under the sink to install the manifold. When installed by a plumber at the same time as the new water heater, the additional cost to install the Watts system will be minimal. |
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Look into this option
We just switched to a tankless through the TECO program. After looking into insurance alternatives, some would not quote with our 23 year old water heater. As a snowbird, I was always concerned about leaving with the old one popping and banging, waiting for it to let go. The tankless works great. $26/month for 5 years ain't bad at all. Still takes a minute for the hot stuff to get to the other side of the house, but welcome to Florida water pressure. AND we got the added bonus of a bit of extra storage space in the garage since the tankless is outside. IMO, worth looking into.:thumbup:
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Quote "We have a 40-gallon tank (electric) that is 26 years old and seems to be in perfect working order."
So you are one of "Those Guys" who is going to wait till your tank fails to get another and brag that it lasted 30 years LOL Here is what you need to think about: 1) Unless you are changing the anode rod in the tank every 5 or so years, its long gone and becasue the inside of you tank is now rusting, you are washing and possibly drinking with all that "contaminated" water. 2) Because the tank is literally eating itself from the inside out, when it does fail it has a good chance of being spectacular meaning it's probably going to be a large leak or flood due to all the corrosion. If properly maintained, meaning yearly flushes and changing the anode rod every 5 or so years I guess it's possible it could last that long but not many ever do both of these maintenance tasks. Time for a new water heater, if not, please let us know when and how it fails and how much it cost for you to fix all the damage. |
I don't know if this got mentioned yet or not, but the heat pump hot water heaters have a dehumidifying effect which makes the garage more comfortable in the warmer months (which is almost always).
Also the downside of the recirculating pumps is that if you go to get some nice refreshing cold water, it won't be as cold as you had hoped, and now you have to wait for the cold water instead of waiting for the hot... |
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Most water heaters last an average of 10 years -- it is time to replace your water heater.
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Don't forget, you also use hot water for the dishwasher, and washing machine as well as for showers. 40 gallons should be just about right for two people.
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Not that I want to wait to see mine fail, just curious. |
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Another downside of the pumps is additional electrical costs. First, there is a pump that runs frequently to send hot water to the far end of the house. Then, there is the cost of heating the cold(er) water that is pushed back into the tank when the pump runs. The instant hot water might be worth it but there is going to be a cost. |
If it were me I would not downsize.
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