AC Line and Tray cleaning - best process?
 

Hi all,

I fully plan on doing my due dilligence on Youtube about cleaning out the drain line and other AC related items.

I also plan on having someone (Munns or Sunshine) do an semi-annual or annual checkup.

For you - what have you found is a solid preventative routine to keep everything working well?

For example, flushing out the line every month with hot water, etc. Avoid bleach, avoid vinegar, etc.

Thanks!

Been using vinegar to flush out the line for 10 years with no issues.

I once called Munn's and asked them why their technicians only recommend using hot water, because their website had an old FAQ that recommended using vinegar. They told that they needed to change their website because Carrier had told them to only use water. No vinegar. I use a gallon of hot tap water about every month.

I also have a "Drain King" that I bought from Amazon that is a small rubber tube that you insert into the drain pipe and connect the other end to a garden hose. When you turn on the water, the tube expands and seals the pipe and allows a thorough flushing of the condensate line, with no backflow. Very handy device.

I’ve seen several caveats about not using bleach or vinegar but I’m missing the rationale.

The condensate line flush entry connection is pvc pipe below the AC air exchange unit. So how could either cause damage to your AC, unless they’re saying the fumes rise from the condensate line upwards into the unit. I could understand if you’re pouring Clorox/vinegar into the AC drain pan.

I’ve also been looking at AC condensate brushes.

RetiredGuy's post is correct. All you need to use is hot water. For whatever reason Carrier doesn't want vinegar or bleach and you may void the warranty if you use it. In addition, if the drain is maintained, you don't need anything more than hot water. When these HVAC guys come to do their maintenance they pour a chemical down the condensate line to prevent mold and other organic growth. After that is done, plain water is all that's needed until the next serviced. Now if you don't maintain your drain and it gets clogged then you need to put a shop vac on the output of the drain and flush it out.

Similar situation with the condensor and evaporator coils. The current thinking is no chemicals, just water. When properly maintained that's all you will need but if you don't clean your coils and the outside unit gets a "fur coat" then it's best to let your HVAC company get it clean. On the newer systems, the coils are more delicate so you need to be careful.

If you have an old 20-30 year old system then "go at it". Use whatever you want to clean the condenser because nothing will hurt it.

The point is if you do the periodic maintenance, the drain and outside and inside coils will not get dirty enough to require harsh chemicles to ge them clean.

#1...Above is true on Carrier HVAC systems direct from Munn's service people.

#2... I also was told along with hot water once a month, add a couple drops
of Dawn dishwashing soap for lubrication.

#3... Use a HVAC service people at least once a year, and you'll sleep better knowing your
AC taken care of. Spend your time golfing.

#4... Your Welcome

Best advice possible.

My AC died after 14 years, so I had a new one installed.
When the inspector came to certify the installation, he said to use a cup of vinegar once a month.
I use Sunshine for service every 6 month, but I change my own filter every 3.

I put my shop vac on the outside end of the drain and vacuum it out at least three times annually. I put nothing in the drain

Yup that exactly the correct procedure .. I've been doing that procedure for over 40 years ...it works perfect

I do the hot water in my condensate line every month. I also just bought an attachment on Amazon for $10 that plugs into the fitting on the outside drain line on one end and the other end has a fitting that plugs into my shop vac. It's called a "A/C drain line cleaner tool".

I used it the first time a few days ago and I was surprised at the gunk it pulled out of the condensate line.

Hot water down the condensate line once a month. Also, I had a neighbor a few years ago who had his condensate line get clogged up. The Munns tech found a rather large, dead, anole stuck in the line. After hearing that, I put stainless steel mesh strainers on the ends of the condensate lines outside the house. These are actually made for live wells in fishing boats, but work well for this purpose, too. Keeps small critters out.

A/C Flush
 

I use HOT WATER to flush, because I have a banana tree close to the drain vent outside and I don't want to harm it.
I have a note on the A/C unit to remind me to do it monthly.

A/C
 

Flush monthly with very hot water, change your filter every 6 months, and have 2 visits per year for maintenance with Sun Kool or a good a/c company. We put some lavender spray in the filter to help the house smell fresh.

I have heard that some people will boil water to add to the condensate drain. This is not a good idea because you can exceed the maximum recommended temperature for the plastic drain pipe. The biggest risk is that you can melt the pipe glue and cause a leak. Hot tap water is fine to use.

1/2 vinegar 1/2 hot water works for me all these years. Do it twice a year.

Need watch see if they gain access to A coil and check pan put tablets in. IMO what paying service for. Some unit designs nearly impossible to get front cover off gain access to A coil drain pan. My new carrier extremely hard to get access to A coil and drain pan due to lines, vent, and aluminum taped up like fort knoxk. My old Trane was easy access. I should have got Trane. But maybe it will be next guy problem?

I just installed new unit last week -- they advised to only use warm water. You may want to call the manufacturer of your unit.

I'm not sure who installed your new unit, but with my new Carrier unit installed last week by Sunshine, It's very easy to open the cover to access the coil. And I think that's important. Also, your unit shouldn't need to be taped up like fort Knox. The one thing I noticed between my old Carrier system and my new one is there are gaskets on the all the door and filter panels and there are no air leaks. Good job Carrier. The only places you should need tape is where it connects to the upper and lower plenum. This is why I always say when making a decision on who go with, price is important but beyond that, the install is extreemly important and will determine how long your unit lasts.

I know this is a little off topic but when you put in a new system you also need to know:
1) Are they using nitrogen when brazing?
2) How much vacuum are they pulling before releasing the refrigerant?
3) Are they giving you a new line set?
4) Are they insulating the new line set all the way under your water heater to the outside wall?
5) Are they insulating the condensate drain?
6) Are they providing the proper size replacement unit? Did they do a new heat load calculation?

What do you think the Vinegar, Acetic acid, is doing to help clear the line? I think you would basically get the same results by pouring Top Job or Mr. Clean down the drain and flushing it out.

The reason why it's working for you is you are maintaining the drain so no matter what you use, your drain will remain clear.

Completely different unit than you’re. I just flush my drain out the 55 Psi water pressure. Takes about 4 mins.

Once a year I open up the unit to get to the condensor and if I see any small mold spots inside the area or the condensor coils I use a mild bleach solution to spray the coils and sides, let that sit for 15-20 minutes to kill the mold, then spray with fresh tap water (don't use too much). I do this after I turn off the A/C at the breaker box. Close the unit back up and wait 1 hr before turning the A/c back on. I'll use warm water to flush the condensate drain all the way out the side yard. If I see white gunk in what comes out the condensate drain in the side yard I know that there is stuff growing in the condensate line that will not be killed by warm or hot water. Suck out the line with a shop vac, then fill condensate pipe with mild bleach water (2 quarts) , let it sit for 1/2 hour to kill what ever is growing, suck it out again and flush with clean water. PVC pipe does not like bleach so don't leave in the pipe too long. If one is very concerned about damaging one's PVC drain pipe, then I suggest using "bromine" which is just as effective (obtained from just about any pool store.

Just remember most of our condensate lines are buried in the concrete slab so be careful not to damage it with chemicals as you started.

In CYVs There 4 inch pvc pipe usually where copper lines and pvc drain ran all way up to unit under garage floor slab. They replaced all my line by running new lines through underground cavity by tying rope on to old lines and using the it to pull new lines under and up in side floor box. If they couldn’t do that then out side wall up through attic was other option.

My common sense tells me that both vinegar and bleach are corrosives and that the PVC pipe that runs from one end of the house to the other is most likely more than one pipe with a connector with some type of glue. If a corrosive is used, there could eventually be problems with the connector, then you will have an even bigger problem. I only use hot water for that reason. But I did read the response about the Dawn, so I may start doing that. :bowdown:

I guess this is why Carrier says do not pour Vinegar down your condensate drain.
>>
Corrosion is one of the leading causes of AC cooling coil leaks. The coil’s material, usually copper or aluminum, can react with chemicals in the air. These reactions, especially involving formic acid or acetic acid, eat away at the metal, creating small pinholes over time. Common sources of these chemicals include household cleaning agents, adhesives, and paints.
<<

Is anyone still using any exotic chemicales to flush their A/C condensate draines?

I have a neighbor that swears using TopJob, Ammonia and a little Bleach has kept his drain clean for over 20 years! But never mix Ammonia and Bleach since it produces toxic fumes.

So we shouldn’t cook with vinegar or clean with bleach in our house? After all, unlike the water in the drain lines the air in your house will be collected and pushed directly through the coils. If it is strong enough to harm fabrics and burn your skin and eyes then just imagine what it must be doing to the soft aluminum and copper of the coils.

NO to Ammonia, and bleach !
 

NEVER mix Ammonia and BLEACH....It makes Chloramine gas....which can KILL you.

You have a good point LOL but it's the concentration that causes the problem. So having the fumes in the condensate line are probably stronger than what would be sucked into the return from your room?

I think that's the point, that mixture will kill everthing in your condensate line so you will never have a clog. It essentially fumagates your drain.

I'm not recommending that, only this is what one neighbor swears by.

Surprised in this discussion that no one has been putting Dawn liquid in their condensate pipe followed by warm water. This is the recommended procedure we have gotten from our Trane installation company.

The Trane website (trane.com) does not recommend using Dawn liquid in the condensate drain. They recommend using a mixture of water and vinegar to keep the drain clear.

Note that Carrier does not recommend using vinegar. They recommend using only warm water.

I think if you maintain your condensate drain by pouring hot water down it once a month or so, then you don't need to add any other chemicals since it will be basically clear of any algee or other growth. There will be nothing to "wash" away. But if you haven't maintained your drain and now decide to do it, then you probably want to flush it out with some soap or mild chemical to get it clean.

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this device. Anyone using it? Once you by it for $99 then it's $44/year for the solution.

Amazon.com

I like to use these:
Amazon.com

I just saw another thread here on TOTV about using the iFlow device so no need to comment. From what I can tell everyone has their own special formula on what to dump down the drain each month to keep it clear.

The iFlo is a good idea but there really is no good way to get the solution into the evaporator drain pan and I'm not convinced the small amount of fluid it dispenses down the drain every two weeks is as good as dumping a gallon of hot water.

It appears that bleach will attack the PVC and vinegar the evaporator coils so hot water seems to be the solution as long as you do it every month or so.

Is anyone using the drain pan tablets? If you take out the filter on your air handler you can reach in and put them in the pan without taking off the cover. The only thing is they say they only last about 3 months. I remember Sunshine putting these tablets in the pan when doing maintenance then at the last visit they poured some solution down the drain after flushing it instead of using the tablets. My guess they feel they are cleaning the evaporator coil and pan when they come so no need to put anything in the pan, just the drain to keep it clear. Any thoughts on this? I think Munns does the same from what I saw when they did maintenance at my friends home.

my original 18 yr. old unit only drinks hot water.

I could be wrong, but I think adding dish detergent to the condensate drain could cause more problems than it can solve. This is because you cannot see how much water to add to completely flush out the suds, and it could actually cause a clog. Technicians will sometimes offer advice that is not consistent with the official recommendations of the equipment manufacturer.