Anchoring shelving etc to walls
 

New to the Villages in a 2006 Lantana model home. I want to replace all the closet wire shelving with wood shelves supported by cleates. It appears as though we have metal wall studs. Screw in drywall anchors seem a bit shakey to me. Any suggestions on the best most secure way to attach the supports etc?
Thank you!
Dean

Toggler Snaptoggle
 

The "Toggler Snaptoggle" is the strongest I've ever seen. I've purchased them in two sizes for use in new Rubbermaid FastTrack closet shelving.
Don't recall if they were at Lowes or Home Depot but probably both.

Toggler Snaptoggle | Anchor Bolts,Toggle Bolt, Toggle Bolts

:coolsmiley: Shop TOGGLER 10-Pack 3/16-in x 2-1/2-in Toggle Bolts at Lowes.com

There is a youtube video also.

Where I encountered the metal studs, I used sheet metal screws for the shelving anchors. Now these were the style that would not typically experience a pulling type force, all of the force was basically vertical. I with above, the toggle type will provide the strongest support, and the plastic inserts probably almost none, as I have had these shear off when the screw was inserted at the metal stud, then they pull out easily.

There are big plastic inserts that look like oversized screws--they work really well--we used they when we installed cat steps for cat to get up to her cat bridge which crosses the kitchen overhead between the cabinets

Anchoring shelves etc. to walls.
 

OK here is a bit on the methods I use and it is because the sheet rock here is the most unreliable wall board I have ever seen and I have personally with my wife built 6 houses and modified several others. I am not a contractor but I am a fairly good Engineer. In our unit, one time with an anchor and it may or may not work due to the flimsy sheet rock of very low density. Suggestons.
1. You mentioned that there are previous supports, so fill those holes with putty and and paint the walls.
2. Do not put an anchor in anywhere close to a previous anchor spot.
3. I use these: The ones with the expanding butterfly legs on the back that spring out. OR
4. I use a piece of one by 2 finished wood strip, I drill holes in the board, then put it against the wall and then punch a hole with an awl at each hole, that gives a good hole pattern on the wall. Then insert the spiral anchors, the ones with the very heavy acme looking thread, I put a thin drop of good Gorilla glue on the anchor and when you screw it in, if distributes the glue.
5. Then put a thin coat of the glue on the wood and use a couple of screws to hold the strip to the wall and let it set overnight.
6. Depending on the anchor it may take a #6 or #8 screw, I use short ones to hold the wood on wall while the glue is drying, and the longer ones later, I also put a thin amount of oil on the screws, this minimizes the friction while driving the screw and will not turn the anchor. I found the sheet rock is so cheap, it may allow the anchor to turn, so the lube oil helps, you do not need a lot of thread engagement in the mounting screw, about .75 to 1, inch is enough. You can experiment with the screw in the anchor while it is not installed, hold it with channel locks to see how it goes, you can also pre drill the inside of the anchor to minimize the friction because that friction will tend to turn the anchor while driving the screw. But you do need a good solid thread engagement. You can bond the 1 by 2 in different directions to support the brackets etc. :icon_wink:

Hi I posted a long reply to you on shelves, not sure if you got it or will get it.

If not, let me know how to get the items on installing shelves, I can repeat it to you.

bbbbbb Send note in message secition. bbbbbb

Great info, a little info about what I tried yesterday as a experiment:
I hung 3 clothes rod brackets (they will support a shelf on the top of them) from the back wall of a closet using a metal version of the big thread screw in drywall anchor, I did not use a 1x board under it. Since the load on the clothes rod will apply a pulling (axial) load to the anchor I am concerned that they might pull out. I do think the 1x and adhesive would help. The toggle seems a bit more positive. Does a stud finder work on metal studs?

Anchoring shelving to walls
 

Hi, I sent a long item to you in hopes of clarifying the shelf work.. HOpe you got that, so let me know thru messages above on Talk of The Villages.
Thanks,

bbbbbb :spoken:

shelving
 

Well the metal studs are mostly on the inside walls only, the outer perimeter of the house is supposed to be wood. The metal studs are of a very, very thin sheet metal formed and they are not of much value in attachment, ALTHOUGH someone may be able to add to this. I have good luck with a 1X2 glued and screwed to the wall just did a job in my garage, on an inside wall. You can cut the one by to form a large T where a bracket and the horizontal can be attached. It works great for sure and is worth the effort. IF the attachment is marginal, the anchor can pull out and pull a big plug of the Sheetrock with it, ugly. Yes a stud finder will find it because of the metal, the stud finder usually finds the nails in the wood stud.
If my anchor hits a metal stud, I simply drill a hole for the inside end of anchor and also can cut off a bit of the anchor, reducing its length. Write me if you need additional help, glad to be of assistance if possible. And if you have a bracket and anchors that anchor is feeling a shear load, up and down and it also a tension load pulling out because it tends to rotate around the bottom.



bbbbbb :spoken:

Frogeye100,
The stud finder I have works in either wood or metal.
VT

Oh my, Chatbrat, can you post a photo of the cat bridge and steps? We have three (!!!) and they would love a bridge.
Thanks.