Doorbell Help
 

My doorbell button doesn't light up. It's 12 years old. Purchased a new button. Problem the circuit breaker box doesn't have a circuit breaker marked as doorbell. I know there is a tool that can be purchased to test if the line is still hot. I called Pike Electric & they will charge $150 to replace. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to be sure the line is dead, before proceeding. Thanks Barb

You didn't say if the doorbell works. If the wires are tiny, then it is low voltage and there is no need to turn off the breaker to replace the button or the doorbell. The doorbell and the button are most likely powered by a transformer that is probably located in the attic near the attic access panel. If you don't want to pay $150 for a new doorbell, you can buy a wireless doorbell and install it yourself. Another option is to replace the button with a Ring device, which will provide a bell and a camera.

The doorbell maybe tapped off the same circuit as the low voltage box or the post light. Depending on the vintage of your house this circuit is usually off a GCI circuit breaker or a GFCI in the garage. Carefully loom at all of the circuit breakers, a TRIPPED circuit breaker can be hard to spot. If all circuit breakers are ON, then walk around the garage and check all GFCI outlets. There is a TEST and RESET button on each of these, press the RESET button, if you hear a click it was probably tripped. These also typically have a light to indicate tripped and reset, but the color and location of these vary between manufacturers.
As noted above, the doorbell operates on around 24 volts AC and is not a shock hazard. If your house has vinyl siding, the switch may move slightly when pressed and this can cause the wires to break at the switch, I have seen this happen a few times. The existing wires can be stripped and placed on the screws, NOTE it does not matter which wire goes on which screw.
Let me know if you need more help, VT.

Note that my doorbell is connected to a transformer attached to a truss in the attic. I assume they connected it to the light bulb circuit in the attic, but I am not certain.

That is also how mine is wired. Our house is just over 3 years old for reference.

Yes, ours is wired that way also, and in our case, this is also the GFCI protected circuit that feeds the post light. So, if the post light is still working, i would be looking at the very fragile wires at the doorbell push button.

I just replaced mine month ago. Mine had two low voltage wires. If I remember correctly cause I didn’t pay attention the door bell assembly had light circuits built in. When I replaced it the light worked wHen it didn’t before.

It’s low voltage, they last about ten years, buy one on Amazon easy to replace.

As the OP mentioned, there's no shock hazard.
This is what I'd try....Unscrew your door bell, take the wires off the back, look for breaks as mentioned, and touch the wires together to see if you get a chime. Door bells are extremely low voltage so that's safe.

They are all low voltage wires. just buy another unscrew the other one and thats it.

My doorbell is on the same circuit as my garage lights. I have a Ring, but you need a $20 transformer in the attic to make it ring the existing doorbell. You CAN use Alexa and/or the transformer but it is too much noise.

I replaced my doorbell button with a Ring device and connected the 2 button wires to the Ring device. The wires do 2 things, they allow the old doorbell to ring and they keep the Ring battery charged. No need to add a transformer or anything else.

They are 24 volts, get a cheap volt meter and test it yourself.

Our doorbell isn't hardwired at all. It's battery-powered with a remote transistor that sends the single to the chime box on the wall behind the door.

I bought a voltage detector at Harbor Freight for about five bucks. Amazon etc sells many similar devices for similar low prices. They look like a pencil, a fat fat pencil. Very simple to use, might be useful for your situation, maybe someone can comment. Kind of neat: hold it near a wire and it magically detects electricity (or not.) Dunno if professional electric people would recommend it, but I think it's handy. Easier than a volt ohm meter.