Talk of The Villages Florida - Team transaxle brake adjustment

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Team transaxle brake adjustment

Ok, I think I figured out how to adjust brake free play (slack) on my team transaxle with internal brakes. How do I know it’s team? No rear brakes at wheel axle and got team stamped on rear center of transaxle.

Looking at picture you can see jam nut (j-nut) on rear and rubber slide boot on front side of bracket. Slide the rubber boot off the other jam nut under it. Break the fwd j-nut loose and spin it forward 1/4 or so (depending on how much over years your internal brakes has worn?) tighten rear j-nut up take up slack. Re-install rubber boot cover over the forward j-nut. My cart has over 20K miles and brakes was little weak when parked on hill. The slight slack removal pitches the brakes clamping power more?

Just make sure after adjustment with brake off if free wheels when pushing it and it rolls easily. Other wise to my have tighten up too much and now brakes are dragging when the aren’t supposed to?

Seems to work, when I look at it don’t look like does nothing? I can feel difference when braking and when I rock GC with my foot it don’t seems to move when it did before?

I marked threads on rear adjustment just in case it didn’t do nothing so I could put it back in same spot.

Internal brakes under normal use last very long time with normal maintenance IMO.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topspinmo (Post 2432329)

Ok, I think I figured out how to adjust brake free play (slack) on my team transaxle with internal brakes. How do I know it’s team? No rear brakes at wheel axle and got team stamped on rear center of transaxle.

Looking at picture you can see jam nut (j-nut) on rear and rubber slide boot on front side of bracket. Slide the rubber boot off the other jam nut under it. Break the fwd j-nut loose and spin it forward 1/4 or so (depending on how much over years your internal brakes has worn?) tighten rear j-nut up tanking up slack. Re-install rubber boot cover over the forward j-nut. My cart has over 20K miles and brakes was little weak when parked on hill. The slight slack removal pitches the brakes clamping power more?

Just make sure after adjustment with brake off if free wheels when pushing it and it rolls easily. Other wise to my have tighten up too much and now brakes are dragging when the aren’t supposed to?

Seems to work, when I look at it don’t look like does nothing? I can feel difference when braking and when I rock GC with my foot it don’t seems to move when it did before?

I marked threads on rear adjustment just in case it didn’t do nothing so I could put it back in same spot.

Internal brakes under normal use last very long time with normal maintenance IMO.

Good information, thanks. Another way to be sure you have a team axel with wet brakes is to change the rear differential fluid. The team axel takes about a quart and a half and the other axels (carts with drum brakes) only take about 18 ounces. It a good idea to change the fluid in the team axel anyways every couple years as the metal wear from the wet brakes is readily evident when draining the old fluid. Be sure to use a friction modified rear differential fluid, I use the Yamaha brand.

I change mind around 4 year mark. I also remove front clutch cover annually and clean grease that breaking down and slung around. One pump goes long ways. Also clean belt and surfaces on clutches.