Possible that your compressor is tripping on overtemp. It is an auto reset, which would explain why it works when the tech arrives. Just my 3 cents.


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Please let us know when th A/C is repaired and what the remedy was

That is a possiblity since some compressors have a winding stat.

EdFNJ: "I would say that by listening to that motor there that the amateor sprocket is causing interference which in turn causes the combustion line to interfere with the flow in the dynaflow."

Ralph: "Now what does that mean?"

EdFNJ: "I don't know."

Ed Norton! This should help the Technician or a $Yard$ should condemn you A/C unit!

I have had that problem before. Outside unit was freezing up. Called son-in-law, an HVAC guy who told me to change filter. Bingo.

That's my bet as well. If it wasn't so hot and if my (garden) hose reached the back I'd remove the cover and clean the coils first.


I hope I know myself (short of buying a new system). :)

Now THERE"S man who knows what he is saying!

Filter is new. Wish it were that simple. I think it's overheating just like the rest of us in this weather.

This is why I have a service contract with a HVAC company that specializes in the brand of the unit. All of these things that people are suggesting, are done two or three times a year depending on the plan. Additionally, critters love to nest in the compressor control unit. It is protected, warm when the nights are cool and the wire make for good eating until they get fried by a short. This last is not your issue now, but a solid tech would have already done all of the things that have been suggested and more, until the problem is solved. Fluky things happen with machines in the field. You hire the specialist to be able to fix what is necessary.
We close in August and that contract is high on my list to get in place.

"Specializes in the brand of the unit" All residential split units are essentially the same. What REALLY matters is the competency of the technician. Unfortunately not too many exist in the residential field. And when they do exist, quickly move from residential to commercial/industrial. That is a fact. The best you could hope for is a easy fix if and when it breaks.


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Since you are moving to Osceola Hills I assume you are buying a new home?? If so, the HVAC equipment will come with a 10 year parts/5 year labor warranty. To maintain the warranty, you will need to have an annual maintenance checkup. There is no need for more than one checkup per year and no need for a service contract.

I think it's your drain is still plugged. If you have an air hose blow it out good again and then pour vinegar in it every week.

Yes, it sounds exactly like the condensate has to build up (causing shutoff switch to close) then when condensate is high enough, it pushes out and the switch opens again. So condensate line is operating but must have some type of partial obstruction.

I've ben told that besides the switch in the condensate line there might be a float switch in a pan--check that switch also

Suggestion
 

There is a home show on 96.5 FM 7am sunday morning.
You might try calling them. Of course have all the info you can available. Unit serial number, a list of what has been checked, replaced etc.

In your posts you have said you are considering replacing the unit. Ours is three years old installed by the builder.
Ours is 13 SEER-it is posted on the unit and I think that was the minimum that they could install at the time.
I did notice that at Fenny they are using 15 SEER. The difference is 13%. Would you save 13% in your heating and cooling costs? That might be an interesting question to ask.

As you well know an intermittent problem is the most difficult one to find.

Been there don't that. Also tested the shutoff switch on the drain. When system WAS NOT functioning switch was showing properly opened circuit. Also tested continuity across switch and that too is properly functioning. Also high pressure hosed through drain and it is completely clear.

Thanks ..... we are 2nd owners of this home and ours is the original unit (9 yrs old) and is 13 seer which I believe is (was?) the minimum code requirement.

Electricity rates are relatively low here so that saving VERY optimistically 15% would be around $20 month so considering probably close to $1000 difference in equipment cost it would take probably ~5 years to amortize so it's probably worth it from that point assuming I want the larger out of pocket expense.