bingo! :agree:

The actual issue is not primarily in the underlying structure, but rather the wrong material being used. Rather than standard drywall being used in these areas, soffit board should be specified. It is resistant to moisture and wide temperature swings.

It is occurring in garage ceilings. Standard drywall is sufficient.


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Due to moisture it should be 5/8' "blue" board moisture resistant.
Butt ends should be cut, to end on a stud.
Mesh tape is prone to cracking, any experienced drywaller will use paper tape.

you are way off base and wrong.
It isn't a moisture area like in a shower.
Also paper tape doesn't hold up like a mesh tape.
It comes down to what mud mix you use and the time between coats.
And third the thickness of mud and change of temperature.
I believe Insulated ceiling will have less cracks then non insulated due to the Rapid temperature change.
Also not having a stud behind a joint is a NO NO!!!
My opinion comes from 40 years of building HOMES!

And as a builder for 45 years, I believe you are way off base and wrong.
Mesh is garbage and is notorious for cracks.
Down here they only do 2 coats on the joints before they apply knock down.
I have 3 homes built in 95, to those specs, none have cracks and the space is NOT insulated.
If you prefer to build your homes with with 1/2" white board on the ceilings, that's fine and within code.
I'll build mine with 5/8" blue board.

We have a screened in porch, 12x30 at our home in a the northeast. When it was first built thirty years ago, we used plywood for the ceiling. I would sand and stain it every couple of years, that became old. We then had it replaced with white soffit material installed instead, looks great. There are some villas in Fenney using something similar on their lanai ceilings. When we return, we will take down the rock ceiling, have furring strips installed and then use a bead board soffit for the ceiling. Quality materials, and those that know what they are doing seem to come out on top every time. Good luck everyone.

PS- We also have cracks, repaired once and came back. The drywall person came over, said it could be repaired but no guarantees it wouldn't come back again. Thanked them for their honesty and said good bye.

Obviously, it's not.

OK, since there is a great deal of debate regarding what should be done during installation, does anyone have a reccomendation of a person/company that'll repair the problem for a reasonable charge?

Did the Warranty Department suggest any solution or contractor for a fix even though they won't pay ?

Average Humidity Levels for Florida - Current Results


I would say that our average humidity in Florida is pretty close to a shower which is 100%. I am thinking blue board might be the answer too, although the expanding and contracting due to temperature changes coupled with the high humidity are a real problem. Interested in this discussion. We are leaning right now to have a sort of plastic bead board installed. Anyone else think that is a good idea?

I guess we have a differences of opinion, i'll do it my way and you do it your way.
I have better luck with my way.
I also think there are multiply variables in different areas and different insulation barriers and attic thermo barriers involved.
Good luck my friend and i hope your way works.
I am not sure if the blue board is the answer, but i agree it is better.
I don't share your same opinion on mesh tape as long as its done correctly i believe mesh tape is better.
stay well.

Because...the seams which are failing are not nailed/screwed to a stud. It has NOTHING to do with type of drywall. Ever hear of a skyhook ?


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well it looks like the poa paper is giving up on any action. and we the consumer get it again.:cus::cus:

How long do they let the concrete slabs cure before framing starts?