Well, if the line is clogged to the float, which is possible, then that's correct. Usually, the line to the float is not clogged and the electronic part fails causing the system to stay On and cause a flood when the condensate drain clogs. I've seen enough of these failures to make this statement.

As far as this check being documented in the tune-up, you have mentioned this before. I would watch what the tech does next time he comes and if he doesn't check this then ask them why. I know it's a pricey call for them to come and fix a clog and clean up the flooded lower plenum when this happens so maybe that's why they don't check. Sunshine checks mine every time they are here doing maintenance.

I would not accept a manual operation of the float switch. First of all, how do you know that the drain pan doesn't have a leak that prevents water from even reaching the float switch? And, how do you know that the water will provide enough buoyancy force to activate the switch. Also, I will bet you a dollar that many technicians do not test the float switch at all when they perform their maintenance routine.

LOL, if there is a hole in the drain pan would that not be seen as going somewhere like the floor? My water drains into a PVC tube with the switch above it and this summer is putting out plenty of water that has to go somewhere and if not outside then backwards up towards the enclosed tube and switch. The pressure should be enough buoyancy force since it has no where else to go. Seems a pretty simple design.

I don't agree. The leak could be at the back of the drain pan or above the bottom surface so that it only leaks when the drain pipe is clogged. In any event, testing the float switch is definitely more definitive if water is used to trip the float switch rather than doing it manually, with no water.

I also think it is important to protect individual appliances. Refrigerator, garage door opener, irrigation controller, for example. Search Amazon for "appliance surge protectors". Air conditioners are being installed with surge protection on the outside disconnect, like the Intermatic AG3000. Also the outside on-demand water heater can be protected. Google "how to surge protect your house". Type 1, 2, and 3 surge protection is easy to accomplish.

Worked for us as well. We just moved into our new TV house a week ago and didn't even know a clogged condensation drain could cause that problem. Saw flashing stove lights meaning loss of power then checked breakers.

None had tripped but re-set the living room breaker. In hindsight, not the right one since it should have been A/C related. That's what powers the thermostat.

Pulled the Ecobee thermostat directly off the wall and re-attached. Solved the problem but a mystery to me what happened. Note the unit is designed to do that easily so don't be afraid to detach if you have an issue.

I hear what you are saying but I've never seen the drain pan leak like you ar saying, not that it can't happen. Maybe it's that vinegar and or bleach some use that eats away at the pan and causes it to leak?

Most of the time when a neighbor calls, it's always the condensate line clogged and the unit either turned off including the blank screen on the thermostat, or the leak sensor failed and there is water everywhere and the lower plenum needs to be pumped out.

But if you feel you need to test the system like you say, knock yourself out. Most are not going to do that.

After reading all these posts, you should never have this issue. I've lived in the Villages for 4 years and never had this problem. What happens if you are a snow bird?

My question is, has anyone had this problem with a whole house surge protector installed such as the Eaton Ultra or the PSP devices?