Talk of The Villages Florida - Rentals, Entertainment & More
Talk of The Villages Florida - Rentals, Entertainment & More
#16
|
||
|
||
When people install vents in their garage doors.....I'm always surprised they install the vents at the bottom where the coolest air is.
__________________
Identifying as Mr. Helpful |
|
#17
|
||
|
||
I agree with adding additional insulation to the attic space above the air conditioned spaces in the house. But, I don't agree with installing insulation on the ceilings that are located above unconditioned spaces, like the garage and the lanai. The basic concept of insulation is to create an insulation barrier between conditioned and unconditioned spaces so that it will slow down the rate of heat transfer between two spaces that have different temperatures. But, if you create an insulation barrier between two unconditioned spaces, like the lanai and the attic above it, the insulation doesn't really do anything because neither space is being temperature controlled. That is why homebuilders never install insulation in these locations.
|
#18
|
||
|
||
Quote:
Now WATER is another thing. You can spend a fortune on that. I would add a sprinkler controller with a remote app to control that when you are away.
__________________
Packer Fan Oak Creek, Wi Village of Hillsborough and Fernandina Snow Flake until I retire |
#19
|
||
|
||
Love our Begonia, ours has several stretches include 2 in the garage and the BR 2 & 3 / LR stretch. Ours was a spec home, only thing I would have changed is our lanai is 30x10, I would have gone either 12 or 14 feet if we'd built custom.
|
#20
|
||
|
||
Quote:
It does make sense that a lighter roof will absorb less solar heat and that it will save on cooling. It will also cost more to heat in our cooler season. Cost of cleaning? Effect on roof life due to cleaning due to removing some of the grannuals that protect the tar like material that the shingles are made from? Net difference? Truth I have no idea. |
#21
|
||
|
||
Quote:
The Federal requirement for new HVAC units is 13 SEER, TV installs 14 SEER. The upgrade is 16 SEER. Let me slow the roll here. SEER is Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating. Or more specifically it is is how many BTUs per watt that unit can cool. By itself 14 vice 16 SEER isn't insignificant. It is has 14.3% more cooling efficiency. It has bonus savings because the two speed system is better at dehumidification, this usually means you will keep the drier air home warmer. Between the higher SEER unit and two degrees higher temperature you'll save 20% of your heating and cooling costs or slightly more than 10% of your total electricity usage. No other savings measure approaches this. Radiant barrier, for example saves 1.5% (at best) and only during the cooling season. Now we could get into a discussion if a even higher SEER. unit would be worthwhile. That really exceeds the depth needed for this post. At design you can choose a two speed HVAC. It is well worth it for energy savings and comfort. HVAC costs are by far the greatest cost in your electric bill. The gas bill, if you have gas, is insignificant. You will not be offered any way to save water at the design stage, so it is not relevant here. Last edited by Toymeister; 07-28-2021 at 06:59 AM. |
#22
|
||
|
||
We have a West facing oversize two-car garage plus a golf cart garage. I installed insulation on the doors from a kit (required two kits) I believe I bought at Lowe's. The insulation resulted in a noticeable reduction in garage temperature. I also keep the small window partially open as well as the propping the drop down stairs open about two inches to create an updraft which helps lower the temperature. I can't quantify how much, if any, savings resulted from this.
|
#23
|
||
|
||
Our Seabrook only has eight windows in the house part and two in the garage. We added extra insulation to the lanai and garage and insulated hurricane glass to the lanai.
Our house in Cincinnati had 57 windows. Three floors, counting basement and some were small ones over others but it was a big energy drain with 22 ft. ceilings in the great room. The one we have here is very good to save energy, we think.
__________________
It is better to laugh than to cry. |
#24
|
||
|
||
It will also create negative pressure and suck conditioned air through every penetration for wires and vents from the living space below and into the attic.
|
#25
|
||
|
||
Quote:
__________________
Everywhere “ There are those who believe something, and therefore will tolerate nothing; and on the other hand, those who tolerate everything, because they believe nothing.” - Robert Browning |
#26
|
||
|
||
I did my own garage door insulation on the West Coast. Fairly easy and cheaper. You buy the foam panels and insert them after cutting down and lots of caulking. Door insulates and becomes quieter. Garage fan would be necessary though for the heat.
|
#27
|
||
|
||
We purchased a home with a radiant barrier already installed in the attic. The first time I went into the attic during the summer, I thought I had an AC leak and I was cooling the attic. Turned off the AC for a few hours and returned to the attic. It was just as cool. Having the attic cooler (by approximately 15 deg F), places a much lower heat load on the ceiling. I cannot quantify the savings, but when I compare my electric bill in the summer with neighbors with the same floor plan, my bill is consistently lower. Of course, thermostat settings are a big player. We leave our thermostat at 76 deg F year around. Not necessary the most efficient setting, but comfort for us is more important.
|
#28
|
||
|
||
Quote:
I'll let others discuss the benefits/drawbacks of fan ventilation from the garage to attic. If the point is to mitigate heat gain the most effective ROI in a garage is insulation on the garage door. If you want the garage to approach living space comfort then insulate the ceiling, the exterior block wall (or frame on a stick built) and install a mini split. The mini splits for a garage (often two ton units) use raw cooling capacity to overcome the heat gain. They are sold as 18 SEER or 20 (I believe) units and will cost 4,500 and up. That's what I did to make my garage, used as a shop, quite pleasant. I use this on an as needed basis. A neighbor leaves his mini split on yearlong. I have never asked him how much it costs to operate. It makes him happy and that is what it is all about. |
#29
|
||
|
||
Instead of a garage fan have a couple of the glass panels in the garage door replaced with screens. Careful with attic fans since it has to have air enter the attic to replace the air it is forcing out and that can be pulled into the attic through any leaks in the airconditioned house. Also, don't run the exhaust fans more than is necessary for the same reason.
|
#30
|
||
|
||
Put a electric plug in your master closet to use when your ironing if you buy an iris. I also have a sink in the garage..comes in handy so you may want pipes run there.
|
Closed Thread |
|
|