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There's a very simple device from the home store that can check 110 vs. 220. Good to keep in mind.
Either way it shouldn't start a fire, just blow the circuit. But I'm no electrician! |
Here is something that many people both ignore and think is a non issue. (I too was in the volunteer fire service for 20 years as both a firefighter and code inspector)
How many of you look to see if your electric appliances, Christmas lights and extension cords are "UL" approved. Many discount, dollar and clearance stores sell such appliances that do not have the approval of the Underwriters Laboratory. I remember vividly back when I was doing my radio talk show, I was speaking about this exact thing. A few minutes later, I got a call from a woman who said she heard what I had said and walked into her dining room to check on of those electric light candles in the window. She said, when she walked into the room, it was ON FIRE and spreading up the drapes. She extinguished the fire with water. The candle had been purchased at a dollar store and was NOT UL approved. |
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I didn't know there was such a device. Good to know. |
Just some info. I have a lengthy electrical background. I dont know how the outlets were wired in this case but if they were wired correct a device that is meant to be charged by 220 volts will not physically plug into an outlet made for 110 volts. Also a 220 volt outlet will not physically accept a 110 volt device. Of course, anything goes if they were wired incorrectly, but that should be able to be traced back to the panel for verification.
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Circuit breakers should break the circuit if they are overloaded. Electric one oh one. Dedicated circuit breaker (!!??) should be marked. We have a gas cart, so I really didn't know about needing to plug an electric cart in the right plug. I think I will email The Villages again and link this thread. I hope that many of you will do the same. |
preventable fires
IMHO a thorough home inspection should pick up any outlets that are not wired correctly. I watched 2 different inspectors on my last 2 home purchases test every outlet( including range and dryer). While this may not prevent 100% of all electrical fires, I'll bet it would catch 98% of the problems present at the time of the inspection.
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Just a question??
The side by the POLO grounds where the last fire occured. When was that area built?? Asking because in the late 70 early 80 on Long Island we had Aluminum wiring being used. It was stopped after many fires some of which were deadly. Just asking. I know the new homes use copper just curious if the other side may have had aluminum. Also as I said earlier MAYBE the inspections are getting a little lax also in a few other posts people are also having electrical problems with there appliances.Just seems a little suspicious.But your right a breaker should break the circuit.
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The burned house you see on Canal was caused by a lightning strike.
Army Guy |
Another electrical point. You could still have an overload on an extension cord that is rated for 8 amps but is plugged into a 15 amp recepticle. Remember the circuit breaker trips at 15 amps but you could have an awful lot of heat develop on an under-rated extension cord before the 15 amps is reached. The circuit breaker cant tell the difference between a normal load of say 10 amps and and a bunch of Christmas lights all daisy chained into this extension cord of 10 amps also.
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Consider a toaster. Plug it into a wall receptacle and turn it on. Those little wires inside get red hot, right? If you plug a string of Christmas tree lights into a receptacle then plug a toaster into the lights, turn on the toaster and guess what? The Christmas tree light cord turns red hot. That string of lights is not designed to carry the load imposed by a toaster. The old adage "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link" applies here. |
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