[Toymeister]

I have actually had this problem and repaired it. It is your defrost condensate check valve.

It gets gummed up, it won't drain and the the freezer jams up with frost. Simple fix/replacement.

This video explains it for one model, the principle remains the same for yours. Just remove and replace for less than 15.00. It certainly is worth fixing and it is unlikely it is low refrigerant or some other complex repair.
Fixing a Clogged Defrost Drain Check Valve in a Whirlpool-built Bottom-Mount Refrigerator - YouTube

If you found this helpful give me a thumbs up.

[wisbad1]

Originally Posted by DAVES

My two cents worth. People trying to be helpful where you do not know if they know what they are talking about or are they looking at your refrigerator. I think you said the refrigerator has been running in your garages for 10 years. I assume it was not new when you put it into the garage a rough operating environment for any refrigerator. It is pumping heat into a hot and sometimes cold environment.
A newer refrigerator will likely be more efficient and save your cost in electricity. On an older refrigerator you may find parts you need are no longer made.

We used Bobs Appliance repair phone 352 897-1002. He was pleasant, kept appointment-on time and the cost was reasonable.

Aside, my sister has a GE refrigerator that came with her home. The motor has a date on it and it is 1936. Efficiency? Hey, if it that old and still running you do not ask or wonder.

bob is great and honest

[C. C. Rider]

It would be nice to know if the OP got this fixed and what the problem was.

[EdFNJ]

Originally Posted by C. C. Rider

It would be nice to know if the OP got this fixed and what the problem was.

The thread is almost 3 months old. It's weird how people so often start a thread to ask a question and get dozens of replies but never come back again to post in their thread or update it. The OP has been on the system recently (4 days ago) so you can send him a PM and find out).

[Topspinmo]

Originally Posted by C. C. Rider

I've had the same problem with refrigerators before, and nearly always it was due to a stopped up defrost drain line.

What you need to do is unplug the refrigerator and TOTALLY get rid of ALL the ice on the cooling coils by applying hot/warm air. You can just open the door and blow a fan on it, or you can use a hair dryer to blow HOT air to speed up the process.

Here's the important part. You need to make sure that the water from the melted ice runs down through the defrost drain line to the evaporator pan underneath the refrigerator. If water doesn't run down that drain line, then the line is stopped up with something. It could be stopped up with ice or a particle of food that wasn't wrapped well when you put it in the freezer. Whatever it is, you MUST make sure that line is open and draining well.

Then, after you get all the ice out of the coils and you're sure the drain line is open, plug it in and it should be good to go once it cools down good. Note: Be careful removing ice from the coils. It's best to just MELT the ice. If you try to chip it out with a knife or ice pick, you may damage the thin copper tubing that the coils are made of.

Also, you will likely have to empty the evaporator pan several times during the manual defrosting that you will do. Once you get it defrosted and the drain line open and the unit is back in service, the water that runs into the pan will evaporate when the fan blows air across it. That's why it's called an "evaporator pan".

If you do a good, thorough job of this defrosting and making sure the drain line is open, and then the problem occurs again in a month or two, then the defrost timer may need replacing. You might also check for any loose wires that run to or from the defrost timer.

agree I would completely defrost it first, sounds like it wasn’t totally defrosted the first time it happened. If that don’t work then I start troubleshooting process or call some one.