[village dreamer]

Originally Posted by Chatbrat

I'm a retired electrical contractor, if you have natural gas , @ your house-its a big plus, otherwise go with propane--gasoline in an un injected engine is hit or miss for reliability--kohler is very reliable--, all you really should care about is enough power for a/c, refrigerator and lighting--if you want to not get a real big unit get a window a/c unit for a bedroom, easy in and out and will function with a small portable geneset, however; gasoline may not be available during a prolonged power outage==have enough fuel for 10 days

my gas gen. would burn about 1/2 gal. of gas per hour , if I remember right? you need lots of gas for a week.

[Toymeister]

Originally Posted by village dreamer

my gas gen. would burn about 1/2 gal. of gas per hour , if I remember right? you need lots of gas for a week.

And here you have come to the heart of the matter.

Inverter generators use a motor to power a generator, generators produce DC power at the same voltage at all engine rpms. The inverter technology contained within the generator converts the DC power to AC.

Traditional generators, regardless of fuel, use a motor to power an alternator. Alternators produce ac power at a given voltage if the speed is constant. Which means 3,600 rpms, or screaming fast, in most cases. This is why traditional generators use a lot of fuel.

Inverter generators purr along at low rpms producing constant power, albeit at a lower wattage. When more power (watts or amps) is required the rpms kick up. That is how they save fuel.

If you think you need Max wattage at every moment you are mistaken.

Edit to add, back in the day most generators, particularly traditional generators, used fuel sucking side valve engines. Some still do. Every inverter generator I have ever seen uses fuel sipping over head valve engines.

[Dan9871]

You could hear the 12Kw Generac we had up north when you were outside, but inside the house, unless you were near the wall next to the generator, it was barely noticeable. One thing about our installation was that the pad for the generator was not placed direc.tly on the ground; it sat on a bed of crushed stone. One time we ran on the generator for five days with no refill, and there still was quite a bit left

[Nucky]

My mind has been changed from the Portable Whole House unit since the guy from the Propane Company just left and with all the approvals, permits and then the Extra electrical panel and the Permits would total out around $3000 plus filling the tank. Plus the Generator at about $1200.

I really can't believe it but I'm going to go with the Smaller Generator and Heavy Duty Extension Cords which I dislike and a Window A/C. Details to follow.

I'm like the option of a Gas/Propane Generator. Back to the Drawing Board!

I also really like quiet!

[BobnBev]

Originally Posted by Nucky

My mind has been changed from the Portable Whole House unit since the guy from the Propane Company just left and with all the approvals, permits and then the Extra electrical panel and the Permits would total out around $3000 plus filling the tank. Plus the Generator at about $1200.

I really can't believe it but I'm going to go with the Smaller Generator and Heavy Duty Extension Cords which I dislike and a Window A/C. Details to follow.

I'm like the option of a Gas/Propane Generator. Back to the Drawing Board!

I also really like quiet!

Smart move. Power outages here are so few and far between, you should be just fine.

[Chatbrat]

good ear plugs you got quiet

[villagetinker]

Nucky, as you move forward with your plans, you will need a way to get the power from outside the house (where the generator is located) to inside where yo will need the power. You should be able to have an electrician install a heavy duty (240v 30 to 50 amp), and a small manual transfer switch. This will eliminate the need for the extension cords. Probably in the $500 range. This would only transfer the loads that you have determined are critical, and you would have control over what is transferred and when.
Send me a PM to discuss in detail.

[Chatbrat]

No need for a transfer switch-,certain electrical load centers have an interlock that prevents one breaker from being while the other is on--simple have a small panel alongside your main panel withe breakers of the loads you gotta have-they will be fed from a panel in your main load center-,now there will be a second breaker-in your main panel that will attach to a plug that your gen set--it can only feed the panel when the normal breaker is off that feeds the aux panel--did hundreds of them in my other life

[villagetinker]

Originally Posted by Chatbrat

No need for a transfer switch-,certain electrical load centers have an interlock that prevents one breaker from being while the other is on--simple have a small panel alongside your main panel withe breakers of the loads you gotta have-they will be fed from a panel in your main load center-,now there will be a second breaker-in your main panel that will attach to a plug that your gen set--it can only feed the panel when the normal breaker is off that feeds the aux panel--did hundreds of them in my other life

That is what I was calling a transfer switch, sorry, guess I used the wrong terminology, thanks for providing clarification. VT

[Toymeister]

Nucky,
If you want any precise actual current draws such as the fridge let me know as I have them.

The genset market has been flooded with Chinese models, mostly marketed under familiar brands. This is especially true in the 3k inverter generator and under market.

These are actually quite good as they use copies of Honda and Yamaha overhead engines in the 50 to 150cc class.

Here is a clip of a 2kw model powering an RV with a 13,500 btu ac: Pulsar 2000 beats Generac 2000 hands-down - YouTube

[Nucky]

Originally Posted by Toymeister

Nucky,
If you want any precise actual current draws such as the fridge let me know as I have them.

The genset market has been flooded with Chinese models, mostly marketed under familiar brands. This is especially true in the 3k inverter generator and under market.

These are actually quite good as they use copies of Honda and Yamaha overhead engines in the 50 to 150cc class.

Here is a clip of a 2kw model powering an RV with a 13,500 btu ac: Pulsar 2000 beats Generac 2000 hands-down - YouTube

We would be using either our 25 cubic foot fridge or a small fridge if necessary. A room A/C probably 7500 BTU. A modem, TV, Small Fan & a couple of lights. I would appreciate your help Toymeister. Thanks. If the person we may have to help out does come to stay with us in the other bedroom I understand I can stack two small units together and grab another A/C unit.

VT, I have a representative from Duke Energy coming out to give me an estimate for the hookup. Whatever we end up doing I like the way you are thinking. Gotta get this done already. I wanna get back to having fun!

[Dan9871]

Originally Posted by Nucky

I really can't believe it but I'm going to go with the Smaller Generator and Heavy Duty Extension Cords which I dislike and a Window A/C. Details to follow.

!

Nucky, in a driving rain a portable generator with extension cords plugged into it won't cut it. Rain gets into the sockets. You get shocked. You've got to hook up a ground (well you don't really but if you don't you are liable to become ground.) One time dragging the generator out into the rain and you will call the propane guy back. Been there and done that.

And running a generator in a garage with an open door during a hurricane rain... good luck. Done that too...

[VJBama]

Originally Posted by Nucky

We would be using either our 25 cubic foot fridge or a small fridge if necessary. A room A/C probably 7500 BTU. A modem, TV, Small Fan & a couple of lights. I would appreciate your help Toymeister. Thanks. If the person we may have to help out does come to stay with us in the other bedroom I understand I can stack two small units together and grab another A/C unit.

VT, I have a representative from Duke Energy coming out to give me an estimate for the hookup. Whatever we end up doing I like the way you are thinking. Gotta get this done already. I wanna get back to having fun!

I'll answer for TM: 117 watts for the 25sq ft fridge, 52 for a cube fridge, about 700 for the ac, tv 35 to 60, modem 15, non DVR cable box 18-35. Fans vary wildly 35 to 100 covers most. microwave 120, Led lights typically in the 9-15 watt range.

Avoid all types of resistance heat, toaster, tea pot. Use grill to cook and heat water.

Ideally get a long run option this:https://www.amazon.com/Atima-Extende...extende&sr=8-5. Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Bergs-System-...extende&sr=8-2

[VJBama]

Originally Posted by Dan9871

Nucky, in a driving rain a portable generator with extension cords plugged into it won't cut it. Rain gets into the sockets. You get shocked. You've got to hook up a ground (well you don't really but if you don't you are liable to become ground.) One time dragging the generator out into the rain and you will call the propane guy back. Been there and done that.

And running a generator in a garage with an open door during a hurricane rain... good luck. Done that too...

Ah, no. Get one of these and run in your garage (run pipe under garage door): https://www.amazon.com/Valley-EU3000...gateway&sr=8-3. They are available for virtually every brand. But it keep in the bag in case you ever need it

[Toymeister]

The posted wattages are accurate. Of course for capacitor start motors you do need to allow for starting wattage spikes.

If your portable ac will not start with a small genset there is a fix for starting wattage spikes. It's a detailed fix so I won't post it now as it is probably not necessary for you.