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dbussone 06-15-2017 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chatbrat (Post 1411924)
If the refrigerator and the recepticle is dedicate for the device only you do not need a GFI--NEVER put a refrain on a GFI circuit--make the plug and recepticle a twist lock and you meet code--GFI are for personal shock protection



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Waverunner 06-15-2017 12:05 PM

Option to use GF or not....what is the code?
 
We were informed by an electrician who came to our home, that all the outlets in the garage must be GF by code. I am not sure if this is the same for outdoor outlets. Best to check with a licensed electrician.

villagetinker 06-15-2017 12:27 PM

Some points of clarification. ALL OUTSIDE outlets MUST be protected by GFCI, as far as I know, there is no allowance for using twist lock type outlets. This also includes outlets in the garage, and those near water (bathrooms and kitchen, etc.). INSIDE the house, as I understand it, yes a dedicated circuit to the refrigerator, can be allowed as long as it is a certain distance from water (this needs to be verified with the building department).
OP, as you are aware, GFCI operate when the difference in the current between the HOT wire and the Neutral wire are more than 4.5 ma. This maybe due to the use of surge suppressing capacitors (or possibly leakage to ground of the motor starting capacitor) that connect to ground. The GFCI cannot tell the difference of a leakage due to the surge capacitor (or motor starting cap) or a person being electrocuted due to a broken wire. While I have a lot of electrical test equipment, I do not have a specific leakage detector.

jnieman 06-15-2017 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfing eagles (Post 1411766)
Strange that the hot tub wasn't on a dedicated circuit---must have been a 110 v unit. Actually, the problem that develops isn't from a HOT garage, although it does put more strain on the compressor. The problem is that in the COLD, the thermostat, which is located in the refrigerator compartment, won't call for cold air, and as a result the freezer doesn't get any either and warms up to the mid thirties. Fortunately, no one I've asked has had this problem, but if we get temps outside around 32-34 for more than 24 hours, we may all have this problem. Hope not.

Yes it is a 110 volt hot tub.

photo1902 06-17-2017 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by villagetinker (Post 1412089)
Some points of clarification. ALL OUTSIDE outlets MUST be protected by GFCI, as far as I know, there is no allowance for using twist lock type outlets. This also includes outlets in the garage, and those near water (bathrooms and kitchen, etc.). INSIDE the house, as I understand it, yes a dedicated circuit to the refrigerator, can be allowed as long as it is a certain distance from water (this needs to be verified with the building department).
OP, as you are aware, GFCI operate when the difference in the current between the HOT wire and the Neutral wire are more than 4.5 ma. This maybe due to the use of surge suppressing capacitors (or possibly leakage to ground of the motor starting capacitor) that connect to ground. The GFCI cannot tell the difference of a leakage due to the surge capacitor (or motor starting cap) or a person being electrocuted due to a broken wire. While I have a lot of electrical test equipment, I do not have a specific leakage detector.

You're 100% correct. For my own edification I reached out to the Sumter County Building Inspectors. This is the response pertaining to non-GFCI circuits/receptacles in a garage. "The code says ALL receptacles in the garage are required to be gfi NEC 210.8 A 2. We used to allow them if they were a single recept but the code doesn’t allow it anymore."

Chatbrat 06-17-2017 10:18 AM

30 amp/120v outlets do not have to be GFCI protected--if you have this style out let get an adapter from 30 amp --15/20 amp & you'll be good to go--again GFI's are for personal protection--lots of people use hand tools in garages -- I would never put a refrig on a GFI ,unless the only thing in it are beverages--same goes for a freezer--think -you have golf cart outlets that are not GFI protected

photo1902 06-17-2017 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chatbrat (Post 1412772)
30 amp/120v outlets do not have to be GFCI protected--if you have this style out let get an adapter from 30 amp --15/20 amp & you'll be good to go--again GFI's are for personal protection--lots of people use hand tools in garages -- I would never put a refrig on a GFI ,unless the only thing in it are beverages--same goes for a freezer--think -you have golf cart outlets that are not GFI protected

Just reporting what the building inspector boss told me. Sounds pretty unambiguous if a receptacle is in a garage, it has to be GFCI. By the way. I had a garage fridge on a GfCI circuit in a previous home for 7 years and never had a problem with tripping the breaker.

FoPAA 06-19-2017 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chatbrat (Post 1412772)
30 amp/120v outlets do not have to be GFCI protected--if you have this style out let get an adapter from 30 amp --15/20 amp & you'll be good to go

Would this work for our golf cart, which constantly trips the GFCI plug we use for it? (Newer home, all plugs in garage are GFCI protected).


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