If your goal is to save money, I don't think you will achieve it by waiting until 2025. Most new systems come with a 10 year warranty, so buying a new system this year will lock in a lower price and a 10 year warranty. Do you really think you will save money by waiting until 2025 when a new, more expensive refrigerant is required?

yes, Mitsubishi makes whole house systems and they are Awesome ...Do yourself a Favor and purchase the Mitsubishi ....

It is true that R410A is being phased out but there are drop in replacements so that you won't have to replace the AHU too.

It still may make sense to wait as long as possible as some of the new refrigerants are classified as flammable. Probably not a big deal but a concern.
New non-flammable low GWP Drop-in replacement for R410A. The ONLY retrofit alternative to R410A on the market with A1 safety classification
RSL - the refrigerant specalists

I believe the best reason to hold off is that many new features are being added over time and may be cheaper as competition increases.

mini split
 

While in Maine, up till two years ago, I had a mini split system installed about 6 years ago. The installer recommended a Fujitsu system, Why? best reason in Maine it gets cold in the winter. Mitsubishi makes heat when temps are down as low as minus 5 degrees below zero. Fujitsu mad heat down to minus 15 degrees below zero. I got Fujitsu, and it did everything it said. Making heat when the temp were below zero was mind boggling. Now, having said this, we know the temps in FL don't nearly get that cold. In TV I put in a heat pump ducted. It makes all my heat and AC. No gas, propane, oil, or electric. And that was Carrier.

Thank you, another article that is making me lean more towards the 16 SEER rating

Per the data on this page, based upon energy savings estimate by SEER,

The monthly savings per 1.0 unit increase in SEER = 15.6 kWh per month * 0.14 $ per kWh = $2.20 per month electrical cost savings * $12 = $26.4 savings per year per unit increase of SEER

If you are determining the purchase based upon the electrical usage cost differential per the SEER differential, I would recommend looking at the qualitative factors instead, which of course is harder to quantify. . .

Of course if the only criteria are costs, then the additional SEER of the quoted cost differential of $1,400 has an accounting payback period of 53 years. . . however, your house is not an investment, your house is shelter costs only, and therefore purchase what will make you happy for your retirement. That point of view should ask you to make the decision upon qualitative factors such as longevity, dependability, and mean time between failures and lost cooling time due to waiting for repair parts

former finance guy who use all the accountants' data for the future valuation analysis for purchase. .

Our house was built in 2018 in the Fenny area. We have a heat pump. We also have NG, but no NG furnace. I believe all of the homes south of the turnpike have this set up.

I've been living here about three years. When it gets cold enough to need heat, I've been monitoring when my heat pump comes on. If it does, it's first thing in the morning, and then the sun heats things up and it doesn't run again.

Last winter I think it came on three times (I keep it set at 67 degrees). Depending on the cost differential between heat pump and just AC, I may just go with AC when the heat pump needs replacing. If we really have a cold snap, I figure a space heater, along with cooking some bacon and eggs on my NG stovetop, will be all I need until natural warming takes place. As a bonus, I get to wear a sweatshirt and sweatpants! Or my "Thanksgiving Eating Pants" as my spouse likes to call them.

Just my two cents.

Great post. Something else to remember. That higher SEER unit won't last 53 years. So you will get to start all over again based on the costs when it dies in 8 to 10 years.

Higher energy efficient appliances are great from an overall energy usage reduction for a state or country. When looking at it from the perspective of who has to pay the higher cost for the more efficient equipment (individual consumer) it makes alot less sense. Throw in the fact that more energy efficient=high complexity=shorter life/more frequent repairs and it can make even less sense.

I appreciate the information in this thread. I have a 14 year old 2.5 ton Carrier with a seer rating of 15. With a newer capacitor and module, I've been trying to nurse it along. I've read and reread every post in this thread, searched for information online, and watched two YouTube videos regarding the new refrigerant, 2025 price increase predicted, and companies that manufacture the most reliable units.
I've decided to replace my system this year with a 2.5 ton Carrier 15 or 16 seer rating. My first two calls will be to Munns and Chuck Farrell. SunKool is third on the list, but I think won't be necessary. Thanks to all for helpful information.

My two cents worth. Due to INFLATION two cents is now a buck and a half. Also true for air conditioning. Efficiency vs cost. The math is HUH. If you increase the SEER by say 30% you save like 5% on electricity. I would check with trusted expert. Multi speed fan and compressors will save electricity but parts can be hard to get and are much more expensive,
This is SUMMER. No one is offering DEALS on either the equipment or the installation.

On Line reviews. When I was in business one of the salesmen under several different names would post great reviews of the product and direct people to his account.

BIAS people promote the choice they have made. Oh and getting three estimates. Our central air pooped out. Estimates from others they charge you $100 for a service call.

I am skeptical that a 2-speed or variable speed compressor will actually save electricity. I have never seen a real situation study that proves it. So, you run the compressor at 70 percent capacity and it runs longer than at 100 percent. The only way it can save electricity is if it is more efficient at 70 percent. And how does the electronic system know when to run it at 70 percent or 100 percent? When my house needs cooling, I want it to cool down as quickly as possible. It seems to me that, in order to save electricity, the system needs to know the exact time and temperature when it is appropriate to reduce the compressor speed. Some people say that they are quieter, but my single stage compressor is very quiet.

I wonder how much more a scroll compressor costs initially - and how much $$ in operating costs it saves?? What's the payback?

:)
MRCOOL ProDirect Residential 2.5-Ton 30000-BTU 15-Seer Central Air Conditioner in the Central Air Conditioners department at Lowes.com
:)

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I only have experience as a Mitsubishi mini split owner, however, the performance/activity you describe is exactly the same as Mitsubishi describes the operation of our mini split in the “Econo-cool“ mode. It gives the system a +4 degree temp range and operates the fan low and moves the vanes continuously to distribute air. If we need to change the temp quickly we change to just cool mode (Econo off) and it behaves like a conventional A/C.